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News: 10/5/12 - All new members are REQUIRED to fill out the signature section of your profile. Otherwise, you may be deleted from the forum. This is to help me determine if you are a member or if you are a spammer. Thank you.

9/22/12 - I ask that you please add a signature line to your profiles on the Cletrac Forum to help me to determine who is spam and who is not. You don't need to drop everything and do this immediately, but please do it when you get a minute and you are visiting the forum. Just go to and put something in the signature area. If you no longer want to be a member on the Cletrac Forum, please remove your membership.

8/10/11 - Added a new board: Trucking and Hauling

5/30/11 - Just added several new pictures to the Photo Gallery, including several Alfta Track OC-4 working in snow logging, several from the Chicago Road Show, and some from a logging show (not all Oliver/Cletrac). All these pictures are from around 1963 and were scanned from old slides given to me by my late friend John W. Davis. Go to the Photo Gallery and click on "NEW" to see these pictures. Quality is marginal, but I think you will enjoy them.

2/13/11 - Just added a new board "New members introduce yourselves here".

Folks, I just added a new photo gallery where you can upload your own pictures with descriptions, etc. Right now this is in the beta testing stage to see how it works out. Give it a try, but please keep a backup copy of your pictures just in case we decide to use something else. I would prefer you use your real name on the photo gallery, but if you really don't want to, please use the same username as on the forum. Please put your images into the proper categories and take care when your write out your descriptions and image names so people can search for them. I am learning this as we go. At least at the beginning, I have it set up where the administrator has to approve members. I am afraid we may get porn spam in here if we leave it open. To get to the photo gallery, use this link:

Folks, when you join the forum, or when you get the chance to update your Profile, please be sure to put your location and interests. Filling out your signature would help as well. I've been getting some spammers joining and posting links to sites that are completely unrelated to Cletrac or Oliver, or anything to do with tractors. It would make it easier for me, as well as all the other members, if you guys would put your location and interest in your profile. See

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106  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: April 17, 2008, 06:11:33 PM
Hello, Orangeman -

I found a venturi - sent you a PM.

107  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Muffler on: April 12, 2008, 05:27:08 PM
I tried mufflers above the hood, but no go - the support pipe would not handle the shaking.

So built one to fit under the hood - sort of like the ones fitted to the agricultural models originally. 1/16 steel plate welded into a hollow rectangular box about 6 x 8 x 5" deep.

Heavy exhaust pipe to fit onto the manifold, up thru the muffler to above the hood. Extension pipe on top. Pipe hole has to be near the side of the muffler to clear the side and rounded top of the hood.

Pipe cut in two half way through the muffler, plugged solid, and welded back together. 40 or 50 3/16 holes drilled through the pipe below and above the weld (inside the muffler) for exhaust gasses to blow into the muffler then back into and up the exhaust pipe.

Pipe welded into the muffler and installed.

15 years, probably 1000 hours, still going strong.
108  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: April 08, 2008, 06:33:22 PM
Ours are 3/4" rod, with a 3/8" cross pin  (a bolt!). The offset is about 7", and is about 2" clear of the grill. Handle is 5", no nice swivelling handle like the one in the picture!
109  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: February 22, 2008, 05:20:59 PM
A meticulous rebuild, Steve - impressive!

And is the green motor an IXB-3?

110  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: February 13, 2008, 06:34:40 PM
Hi Steve -

If the seals are good, they let loose with a good juicy burst of flatulence when they're full.  Usually between 5 and 10 strokes with the Alemite type oil gun.

If the seals are shot, you will see leakage after 3 to 5 strokes. Inside is hard to see, but shows up on the treads.

With the defective seals, I usually oil every two to 3 hours until I get a chance to replace them.
111  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: December 04, 2007, 02:09:38 PM
If they're worn more than 1/32, the new seals won't last very long.

I've rebuilt some axles - welded them up with a soft rod like 6011 or 6013 and turned back down to 1.5. Messy, but worked.

I've also got about 6 feet of 2 1/4 Atlas Stressproof bar stock here in Fredericton if you have a machine shop handy and want to carve out some new ones.

But I'd check the price of new ones with Zimmerman first - I did, and forgot about making them!
112  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: September 21, 2007, 07:11:04 PM
They are a loose fit. Mike.

The problem is that the trunnions on the casting are usually worn oval, and unless you can true them up, making bushings to tighten them up will just cant the track hangars, keeping the knock-kneed appearance, wear, and possibly sprocket interference on the lower rear track roller.

The outer blocks can be built up with braze and chucked in a lathe to true them up. I actually bored out the outer hangars to true them up (fly cutter in a drill press, with everything clamped solidly), then turned the blocks oversize to fit the bored hangars.

I did the inner ones (part of the final drive castings) by driving the stub axle out, building them up with brazing, then put an arbour into the axle hole and used a belt driven fly cutter - sort of improvised lathe - to turn them down to fit the bored out hangars.

End result probably 10 thou clearance, but light years ahead of the previous situation.

Discarded the steel bushings - some engineer's BRIGHT idea! - and put grease fittings on both sides of each track hangar. Originals had holes only on one side, and 2 of the 4 got no lubrication on the front (pressure) sides.

Fitted them with rubber shields on top to keep dirt out, but that didn't last long. Now I just grease every couple of hours, to blow the dirt out.
113  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: August 19, 2007, 07:38:06 PM
Hi Rocky -

You have quite a machine there! I cut my eye teeth on Dad's similar one - he got it in '46. Had the same overhead Anderson setup, but not the angle setup on the blade. He moved the dozer to the OC3 he got in '52, and we just sold it a couple of years ago. 6WH990. I picked up another one 20 years ago and rebuilt it. Has the more conventional dozer with two cyls on the sides. Mine just happened to have s/n 6WH994 - just 4 up from his.

Dunno if you have the problem with oil blowing out the blade tank in operation or not. His did - the pump pulled from one side and the return was on the other, and the low section in the center for the cylinder caused an airlock, and it would boil oil out the filler pipe. The fix was a half inch copper breather line joining the tops of both sides.

Those front idlers would appear to make it an HG, but the guys on the forum here say there was no clear cutoff between HG and OC-3. The later OC-3 idlers straddled the outside of the track chains; didn't jump nearly so often once the pins and bushings wore. Two other possible identifiers: IXB-3 engine (might be on the engine plate and oil dipstick), had a water pump while the earlier IXK-3 in the HG did not; and the knee action springs on the OC-3 were outside the asssembly while the HG springs were lighter and enclosed. And broke with annoying frequency!!!!!

Your tracks appear tight - the book says allow 2" sag at mid-point. Tighter tracks aggravate the wear on the front idler bearings, and worse - on the track hangar bosses at the back.

The outside ones are easy to fix, but the inner ones are part of the final drive castings, and a real bugger. I built up a kind of lathe to rebuild the inside bosses. Brazed them up, then turned them back down to size. Put grease fittings on the hangars (both front and back sides - the factory ones on ours had only one fitting, back on one side and front on the other) to replace the original oil fittings and add lube to both sides. Seems to work.

Have fun with the critter!

114  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: August 06, 2007, 02:54:20 PM
The C/R number 15039 is correct. Others work as well: C/R 15005, National 450059, 470380. 1.5" x 2.37" x .5". Width may vary.

And remember that the lip points outward on installation - to keep dirt out, and let the oil flush dirt outward. I only screwed one side (6 seals) last time.
115  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / on: July 10, 2007, 05:28:23 PM
Hello Patrick -

That looks like an HG-31. The "31" indicates the spacing of the tracks; they also came in 42" and 68". You can convert those numbers to metric...

Looks like you have a beautiful tractor. That running gear looks almost brand new. C'est encroyable!

Those HG's were made from 1946 or so to 1951 or so. The front wheels were weak - the flanges running inside the track rails wore, and tracks kept jumping off. The later OC-3 wheels cupped the outside of the track rails, and solved that problem. The support springs were also VERY weak.
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