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16  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: ForSale p.t.o.beltpulley assembly OC3-HG on: February 20, 2016, 01:55:10 PM
Dad's had a PTO and pulley; there was no interference with the drawbar.
17  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Track Press Search on: February 04, 2016, 10:17:44 AM
When I had a set done probably 30 years ago, the shop told me the OC-3 used the same setup as Case 310 tracks.

A shop with that setup might be easier to find!

At that time, Oliver wanted about $250 for the pin and bush set: I got a BERCO set from Surplus Tractor for about $100 including shipping . . .
18  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC3 blade question on: January 19, 2016, 07:37:21 AM
Kirk -

I use a handy free program called "Irfanview" to shrink or crop pictures. Easy to use.
19  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC4 has 1 speed forward and 4 speeds in reverse on: December 31, 2015, 07:01:18 AM
Blake - my first reaction to your reply: Come on, it's not April 1 !

But were there actually machines configured that way?

I think Art's got his solution with the reversed crown gear.

There was an incident back in the fifties here at the local coop garage where the mechanic(?) installed either the diff pumpkin or the entire rear axle backward, and severely damaged the back wall of the shop when attempting to back the car out . . .

Happy New Year, folks !

20  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: New HG Low power on: August 28, 2015, 06:53:20 AM
Low power might be caused by late timing. It certainly isn't advanced, or you'd have had kick-back on starting, and probably a bent starter armature.

But the blow-by does sound like very worn rings or cylinders.

If it were mine, I'd check the plugs first for oil as Mrprecision suggested, and the possibility of overfilling. 

Then a compression test. I'd almost bet you'll find readings in the 50-70 psi range rather than over 100.

That would indicate an overhaul is needed.

Good luck with the old girl. It's a treat to see them kept running!

And let us know what you find.
21  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: HG drive shaft on: July 29, 2015, 07:13:51 AM
No need to remove engine.

On mine, with all 4 set screws locking the yokes to the shafts loosened, the yokes slide onto the shafts, away from either the engine stub or the transmission stub, and the shaft can be removed.

There was a discussion a while back that the original u-joints were the same as Ford Model A parts. Dunno what current costs are.
22  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC3 shuts down on: June 23, 2015, 08:15:10 PM
See if applying choke smooths it out a bit when the spitting starts. This would signal a fuel flow restriction, like the plugged cap vent, or in the plumbing.

The note that it takes a while to quit suggests the plugged vent. In that case it would take less time to quit with a full tank, quite a bit longer if the tank is near empty. You might be able to hear a hissing when loosening the cap just after it quits, as the air rushes in to neutralize the vacuum.

I had a similar problem a few years back, and it turned out to be debris plugging the top fitting on the sediment bowl, in the stem going up into the tank.

There is a 1/8" thread pipe plug on the bottom of my carb. Removing this should give you a healthy flow of fuel, continuing for some time after the carb chamber drains.

If your carb doesn't have a drain plug or you can't loosen it, it's almost as good a check to loosen the fuel line to the carb. This won't wring out a carb problem like a sticking float, however.

Try to capture the fuel for environmental (and financial!) reasons (it's awkward!) and for God's sake, don't try to start the tractor for several hours, to let the fuel spilled on the mag cap dry off completely. You don't want to create a July 1 (CDN)/July 4 (USA) fireworks display with the old girl!
23  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: HG overheating? on: June 21, 2015, 06:03:35 PM
Dad's HG used to heat up under heavy load; he would stop, lower the blade to raise the front to improve circulation, and let it idle for a bit until the temp dropped. It was 4 - 5 years old then, and the rad core was probably crudded up a bit.

I've found those little $20 pistol infra red thermometers handy to suss out these problems. They are cheap and maybe inaccurate, but can be checked for accuracy quickly by shooting at a boiling pot of water - should read 212. Mine did.
24  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: New HG42 owner with a few questions on: April 22, 2015, 05:37:21 AM
I'll second the comments re the Zimmerman operation.

And his prices are very reasonable. My last contact - for some roller axles - their price was a quarter of OEM.
I had geared up with a length of steel rod stock to turn out my own; his price was so reasonable that the rod stock is rusting out behind the shop!
25  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC3 track master pin removal on: April 22, 2015, 05:31:47 AM
The pins are not stepped. But they might have a shoulder if they are well worn. But that hasn't caused problems for me.

My approach was to loosen the front idler adjustment a lot, line the master pin up fairly low at the back of the rear sprockets, and go at them with a drift and heavy sledge. Lots of working room in that position. Two people needed - one to hold the drift punch, (using a long pair of tongs and wearing safety glasses and heavy gloves or mitts!) and the second to drive the sledge.

The sprocket teeth hold the top of the tread from running away after the pin is free.

Re-assembly - lining the tracks up with the pin at the 10 or 2 o'clock position (again using the teeth to secure the tracks), and pulling the upper and lower ends together with a block and tackle until the holes line up.

And my cotter pins were replaced with 4" spikes, bent into a Z shape with the ends hammered in against the link after assembly to help keep them from flopping.
26  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: My "new" 1941 cletrac HG on: April 08, 2015, 06:12:41 AM
If that were mine, I'd be tempted to try polishing up the surfaces at a shop to remove burrs, and see what it looks like. Some pitting would retain oil, and unless you are really going to push the engine hard, should last for years.

Then - if you are a real purist, a more vigorous approach:

Since the mains are babbited, a few thou off them will work fine.

If the rods are fitted with inserts, since they are now standard, taking them down .010 would be an option - provided you can get the inserts. I understand Zimmermans can rebuild insert cups to whatever size is needed.

Good luck with the critter!
27  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: boosting 6v with a 12 volt battery on: February 16, 2015, 04:26:54 PM
That was Std Op procedure with Dad's OC-3, and mine in the early days until I switched over to a 12 v with the self regulating self energizing 37 amp delco alternator with the changes Hotratz describes. A local shop installed the self energizing feature.

There is a risk of damaging the 6v battery if you cable the 12 v booster directly onto the 6 v posts without the starter energized. Leaving the booster connected after start-up can cook the generator regulator, and maybe any other electrics you have on yours.

My approach - got in position to reach both the starter switch and the hot terminal on the starter motor. Dunno if yours has both points in easy reach! Connect the booster neg to a good ground, hit the starter switch, then press the positive end from the booster directly onto the starter post, removing on start. Had to be careful not to hit the cable end on ground - interesting fireworks!

This assumes the starter terminal is a single post, as the OC-3 setup. If yours has a solenoid, you can still contact the booster to the battery lug on the solenoid. 
28  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: block heater for 3 cyl gas oc46 on: February 10, 2015, 01:58:25 PM
Hi Neighbour!

We sure need it these days.

Not familiar with the OC46, but I put a magnetic 300 watt on the bottom of the oil pan on my OC-3. It's protected by the skid plate or sod pan, so it's left in place.

One of my Masseys has one in the bottom rad hose. 150 watt, I think. Couldn't fit one to the OC-3 because that plumbing is mostly pipe. NAPA might have a selection of those to fit different hose sizes.

29  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC-3 Gas Tank on: January 17, 2015, 06:57:12 PM
A chap at the (long deceased) local dealership told me it was for production efficiency. Top and bottom were identical, saving one set of dies at the factory.

Made sense to me.
30  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Muffler on: December 23, 2014, 10:36:39 AM
Hi Glen -

Couldn't find one, so welded one up from 1/16 steel plate. It's been 30 years, and still working. The originals lasted maybe 10 years.... It wasn't fun plowing snow and breathing the exhaust blowing out from under the hood...

Started with correct size exhaust pipe to fit outside the manifold. Cut it about 3 1/2" below the top of the hood, welded a stop plate, then rejoined the cut-off part to make the "tailpipe".

Drilled a bunch of 1/4" holes (30?) around the pipe for 2" or so  both sides of the weld, to let exhaust gas into the muffler, then out the stack above the splice. It's important that there's lots of area in the holes - probably 50% more than the area of the outlet in the manifold. I'm told that a restriction here can result in burned exhaust valves.

Then shaped a 6" or so strip 8" or so in diameter (squashed a bit, and of course off-center of the exhaust pipe) to fit under the hood without hitting anything, welded plates top and bottom. I think there was only a half inch or so from the right side of the ex. pipe to the right side of the muffler, to allow it to clear the
curve in the hood. Give the bottom plate sufficient clearance above the spark plugs.

Used gas welding at the time - I expect mig would work nicely now.

And if it hits something after you get it cobbled up, a right angle grinder will slice off any offending portions, and a scrap plate welded on to patch!

Built a similar custom under-hood for my 1939 AC B (Dad's first tractor!) to replace the original stubby straight pipe, and a later upright above-the-hood one that always shook loose) and it's still muffling too.

Merry Christmas to you and yours, Glen!

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