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News: 10/5/12 - All new members are REQUIRED to fill out the signature section of your profile. Otherwise, you may be deleted from the forum. This is to help me determine if you are a member or if you are a spammer. Thank you.

9/22/12 - I ask that you please add a signature line to your profiles on the Cletrac Forum to help me to determine who is spam and who is not. You don't need to drop everything and do this immediately, but please do it when you get a minute and you are visiting the forum. Just go to http://cletrac.org/forum2010/index.php?action=profile and put something in the signature area. If you no longer want to be a member on the Cletrac Forum, please remove your membership.

8/10/11 - Added a new board: Trucking and Hauling

5/30/11 - Just added several new pictures to the Photo Gallery, including several Alfta Track OC-4 working in snow logging, several from the Chicago Road Show, and some from a logging show (not all Oliver/Cletrac). All these pictures are from around 1963 and were scanned from old slides given to me by my late friend John W. Davis. Go to the Photo Gallery and click on "NEW" to see these pictures. Quality is marginal, but I think you will enjoy them.

2/13/11 - Just added a new board "New members introduce yourselves here".

Folks, I just added a new photo gallery where you can upload your own pictures with descriptions, etc. Right now this is in the beta testing stage to see how it works out. Give it a try, but please keep a backup copy of your pictures just in case we decide to use something else. I would prefer you use your real name on the photo gallery, but if you really don't want to, please use the same username as on the forum. Please put your images into the proper categories and take care when your write out your descriptions and image names so people can search for them. I am learning this as we go. At least at the beginning, I have it set up where the administrator has to approve members. I am afraid we may get porn spam in here if we leave it open. To get to the photo gallery, use this link: http://cletrac.org/photos/

Folks, when you join the forum, or when you get the chance to update your Profile, please be sure to put your location and interests. Filling out your signature would help as well. I've been getting some spammers joining and posting links to sites that are completely unrelated to Cletrac or Oliver, or anything to do with tractors. It would make it easier for me, as well as all the other members, if you guys would put your location and interest in your profile. See http://cletrac.org/forum2010/index.php?topic=1299.msg5184#msg5184

Thanks,
Administrator
 
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31  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: 1951 OC3-42 Smokes On Acceleration, Smooth Under Load on: December 18, 2014, 03:39:34 PM
Mine over the years have had both 403's and 406's, all running gas. The 403 had no high speed adjustment; the 406's have  needles to adjust both idle and high speed mixtures. My current one uses the 406.
32  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Drive sprockets on: December 15, 2014, 04:35:09 PM
Larry -

Are the centres good?

I've built up the teeth on some, and filled in missing material from flaked-off side plates, using 6011 rods. It takes a while to do. Soft material, easy to build up, less wear on the track bushings. A rough cup (typical of my rough welding skills) soon wears down against the bushings to a nice working surface.

Had to grind off the tips on a few that I got a bit high and hit the track frame. The track frames move back toward the teeth as the track hangars, bushings and support bosses wear down.

With the limited use these old girls will get now, my rebuilds will outlast the tractors.
33  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: 1951 OC3-42 Smokes On Acceleration, Smooth Under Load on: December 15, 2014, 04:24:42 PM
Hi Glen -

Might be worth a try to lower the float level 1/8" or so first. That in effect leans the mixture.

Another possibility is a restricted air cleaner or duct, although you probably cleaned that up thoroughly in your earlier work.
34  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC3 Mag question on: November 14, 2014, 06:51:36 PM
Thanks, gents.

Very clear - I've bookmarked all 3 (OC3 Mag install 1, ...2, and ....3) into my equipment bookmarks folder.
35  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: serial number on: October 30, 2014, 02:17:18 PM
I sit corrected!!!
36  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: serial number on: October 29, 2014, 02:59:59 PM
Hello Mark -

Can't help on either of those numbers. The first is probably a Hercules casting number; the 112xxx is an Oliver part number.

Visible differences between the HG 42 and the OC3-42 are the front idlers and the knee action springs.

The tractors were available in -30, -42, and -68 (and possibly others) - the track spacing in inches.

Hotratz' picture is an OC3, probably a 42". Solid disk front idlers, with the track retaining guides outside the track chains.

The other difference not clear in his pix - the knee action springs are exposed and visible.

The HG had front idlers with a number of 3 or 4" holes in the disks, and the track was retained on the idler by a couple of ribs that ran inside the track chains (and usually got seriously bruised or beat up in operation!). The knee action springs were considerably smaller diameter, and enclosed in a round metal can so they weren't visible.

The model changeover from HG to OC3 probably occurred 1949 - 1950  - others here could be more specific on that date.

This may help narrow your age bracket a bit. The HG or OC3 designations would allow you to source most parts with no problem - they were either HG, OC3, or common: although there was some overlap (I understand) during the months of the change-over. For instance, I think the IXB-3 engine with the water pump may have been installed in some late HG's. I seem to recall an earlier thread that discussed that.

37  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: track tightening on: October 22, 2014, 09:41:47 AM
That might be a bit tight, if measured to the flat part of the track in the low area.

I measure 2" from the bottom of the 2 x 4 to the top of a cleat (lag? grouser?). A bit looser is better than too tight on those old girls!

Too loose, though, and the tracks pop off those front idlers with the inside guide ribs. The front idlers with the outside guides, and the IXB3 engine with the water pump and bearing inserts were, I think, the major improvements on the later OC-3.
38  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Wix oil filter 57011 problem on: July 28, 2014, 07:05:17 AM
Found the problem.

The gasket on the old filter remained in place on the filter bracket; the two thick gaskets prevented the threads on the new filter from engaging sufficiently.
39  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Wix oil filter 57011 problem on: July 01, 2014, 05:49:45 PM
Hi folks -

Did an oil and filter change on my OC-3 yesterday. Replaced the filter with a 57011, recommended as a sub for the previous 51101, refilled, started - oil pressure ok (+/- 20), backed it into the shed and oil everywhere.

The filter had popped off and pumped half the oil out.

The mounting  bracket seems undamaged.

Has anyone else had a problem like that?
40  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Track Roller replacement on: March 31, 2014, 05:58:05 PM
Axle removal: Once you pry the seals out, there's a heavy snap ring on each side of the bearing retaining castings. I remove the one on the side next the oil fitting, then turn the roller over, support it on 6 by 6 blocks, and use a heavy chunk of brass rod (actually mine was the differential gear axle from a 3-ton truck, about 1 1/2 by 6") between the axle and the sledge to drive the axle and lower bushing retainer out.

They come hard, and the brass prevents the sledge from brooming the end of the axle. And driving on the solid end of the axle prevents buggering up the thread holding the oil fitting.Then remove the second snap ring, and use the axle to drive out the second retainer.

Good luck!

Jack
41  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Track Roller replacement on: March 21, 2014, 08:56:52 AM
Hi Chris -

My work has been on OC3's, but they have similar components. Not sure if there's a top idler or not.

I position the unit so the removable master pin is 2 - 3 teeth back (not half way down) on the drive sprocket. This provides a ready-made gripping assembly to help hold the track in position while removing the pin. If the teeth are worn to a point, secure (heavy wire, 1/4" chain) the pad just ahead of the link pin to the sprocket, to keep the front track section from sliding off the tapered teeth. Loosen off the track tensioner (spring assembly behind the front idler), remove the master pin retaining key (It's probably a 4" spike!) and drop the track. Sometimes the master pin is welded - if so, you'll have to back the tractor up so you can get at the inside to grind off the weld.

Move back to the original position, put in gear so the sprocket won't turn, and drive the pin in, fold the track down. It's a bit heavy.

Block under the top track so if it rolls or slips off the sprocket it won't smash something.

Jack the tractor up so there's clearance between the track chain and track frame to remove the roller, securely block under the transmission, unbolt the roller and remove.

I've wondered after having done this if it's possible to get enough track slack for roller removal by backing the tensioner all the way off and pushing the front idler fully back. Haven't tried that.

42  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC-3 Track dimensions? on: January 31, 2014, 09:03:32 AM
Redid the pins and bushings on mine 30 or so years ago. Got the pins and bushings from Surplus tractor in the midwest - Berco, I recall. 1/4 the price of the Oliver parts.

The shop with the press said the tracks took the same jigs as the Case 310 tracks.

And we got a set of air drill tracks, frames, final drives and air drive motors from a scrap dealer about the same time. Ingersoll Rand, I think. The sprockets, rollers, tracks, front idlers and bull gears interchanged. The final drive castings and axles were very short - they might have fit the OC31? - and the track frames could have been modified to fit, but they're still sitting in the pile.

And Blake - thanks for getting this page fired up again!
43  Cletrac Website / Forum Discussion / Cletrac Website / Forum Discussion / Re: Forum Back on: November 03, 2013, 09:54:16 AM
Hello Blake -

Thanks for your efforts! It's nice to be in the loop again.

Tried to post a "thank you" on the HG page (where I mostly live), but the reply button there is out.
You might add that to your tweaking, whenever time permits.

Jack

44  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC-4 will only run on wrong firing order? on: June 02, 2013, 07:42:32 AM
You get an A+ for detective work, Grant. Sorting out that firing order the hard way  - well done!

It sure sounds as if someone got the governor/mag drive gear off time. No problem - I've had to shift it at one time for a different impulse coupling. As long as the points open (using Blake's technique to trip the impulse and the cellophane tip) on that spark (advanced from TDC) mark you found you should be ok.

As a final check. you can use a timing light (or a poor man's replacement - a long spark plug lead, plugged into the correct turret on the dist cap or clipped to the appropriate spark plug, held carefully so it doesn't bite you, and aimed into the timing hole so it arcs on the flywheel) to verity your mag setting. It helps to highlight the spark line on the flywheel with chalk or a dab of white paint so it's more visible.

45  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: my first crawler, need help starting on: May 04, 2013, 03:38:36 PM
Hello.

I'm not familiar with your model, but I've found that you can turn over most engines by removing the starter and using a large screwdriver or small pry bar to engage the flywheel teeth and lever the engine forward or back.

Good luck with your new acquisition!
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