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News: Wishing you folks all a very Merry Christmas! From Blake Malkamaki and Cletrac.org.
 
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31  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / Auxiliary Transmissions / Now what..... (more issues? I hope not!!) on: January 14, 2011, 08:24:42 AM
Latest issue..  Put the newly machined plates to the tranny. Slid tranny into place. clearances for and aft look good between plates and bellhousing.. ready for welding together.

BUT...

First thing I notice is that the transmission "tailshaft" and transaxle "input "shaft arent straight, or in line in the vertical.. left to right is  perfectly in line.. BUT...top to bottom. tranny output is a bit higher than the transaxle input.. rear transaxle shaft pointed slightly upward, making a not so "in-line situation...not a lot, but enough to easily notice.

 any of you ever see a misalingment of any noticable distance when fitting the tranny?   I can easily "tweak" this as need be, but I want as little sterss on the clutch disk/shaft when its done.

How far off (if any at all) were you all when you did your conversion? And if any at all, what is "too much"?
Will the two U-joints / assembly compensate for this misalingment OK?

I was thinking that perhaps raising the front of the engine a bit might compensate for this out of alignment.. Maybe the front motor mounts are worn where the front has dropped a tad?

Who knows..
32  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: 1958 oliver 0c46 on: January 12, 2011, 01:51:31 PM
pull it apart. there should be a part number stamped on the pressure plate.
33  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / Auxiliary Transmissions / Re: HELP..having issues wit this AUX fitting on: January 07, 2011, 06:25:39 AM
thanks Spectra!  Looks like then about 3" from dead center of the TO bearing carrier hole, or if one used a 8" x 8" plate (like I did) its then 1" from the bottom of the plate as well.

John DeMarrias gives the distance from the top of the plate down (vertically) so it looks like I am good to go.

thanks all.

will report on my progress!
34  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / Auxiliary Transmissions / Re: HELP..having issues wit this AUX fitting on: January 06, 2011, 07:19:15 PM
wow! talk abut fast response! I just posted!

thanks, Man!

Dave
35  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / Auxiliary Transmissions / Re: HELP..having issues wit this AUX fitting on: January 06, 2011, 07:00:04 PM
yea, I have access to that drawing as well. It does not show the distance from the centerline of the TO bearing.

As this drawing of the clutch cover is shown, it only shows the vertical positioning. Nothing horizontal.

thats my question... where to locate HORIZONTALLY given this drawings orientation.

do you know? Spectra? can you give me this dimension off of your finished machine?

I hate asking some folks for this.. I keep forgeting that other may live in a snow belt, and have their tractor in inheated garages! I keep forgeting that not everyone is enjoying a 65 degree and sunny day in Dallas!

thanks, Dave

BTW.. received in the new clutch from Zimmermans.. just got back in from the garage and installed. TOTALY different in terms of space for the to bearing carrier as opposed to what I had. this new one will work fine. Just fine.


My brother the machinist back home made my plates.. THey came in today too! Looking good... all I need now is the model "A" . clutch fork, which I ordered today. Cant wait to install this setup..

So, if its at all possible, anyone with access to their machine, can they give me a dimension to locate this 7/8" shaft HORIZontally please? otherwise, I may try to just enlarge those upper pivot holes and see just where they fall in relation to the alighment of the clutch fork! Hey, there is more than one way to skin a cat!

36  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / Auxiliary Transmissions / Re: HELP..having issues wit this AUX fitting on: January 06, 2011, 03:46:46 PM

thanks to you both for responding.

I think I may have a solution.
First off, the clutch pressure plate I have will not work without grinding each "finger" down a bit to where the diameter of the T.O. bearing carrier will pass.

Instead of this, I just ordered a new clutch pressure plate from Zimmermans., Talking with Landis, and telling him what I intended to do, he did indeed verify that the later model clutches with adjustment screws on the end of each finger do in fact have a much larger distance between ends than the earlier type. thus allowing the larger diameter T.O carrier to pass thru and past the fingers.

It?s on the way. Will verify when I see it in person.

I supposed I could have just ground down each finger on the clutch that I already had to allow the carrier to pass. There would be little left on each finger for the T.O. bearing however. So I didn?t.

The other issue I have is as you stated: The T.O bearing carrier will interfere with the clutch disk unless I cut it down a bit. I intend to do this this weekend.

The last issue I have is what I will call the structural sturdieness of the Wolcott solution over the DeMarrais solution using the smaller rod on top and original "U" bracket vs. John's larger diameter 7/8 shaft and original model "A" clutch fork.

I did have one question that one of you who went this route might be able to answer: That is, a accurate dimmension to drill the cross shaft for the 7/8? diamter rod to pass? I hate to go too far either way..

I intent to employ a local machinist to drill this cross shaft hole thru the housing, and need a pretty close dimension to give him.

The LAST thing I want to ask you, Delong1.. I wen to the link of photos of your progress.

This one in particular:

http://s1026.photobucket.com/albums/y326/DeLong1/dozer%20Clutch%20conversion/?action=view&current=makingupclutch.jpg

Why didn?t you just enlarge the existing ? diameter pivot holes up above and put the 7/8? cross shaft there?

Is the distance from this shafts centerline to the T.O bearing center/carrier not the same using this hole or do you know?

Looking at that photo, it sorta looks like the distance of the drilled holes you made are about the same as the upper ?? diameter pivot holes, No?

Thanks, Dave
37  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: model "A" u-joints.. how to remove clip!!!!?? on: January 03, 2011, 07:15:59 PM
thanks... I did "sorta" the same thing...using a cutting wheel, I nearly cut the old cap in half, allowing me to "spin" it around a bit with a chicel and hammer moving the clip into view as well
38  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / Auxiliary Transmissions / HELP..having issues wit this AUX fitting on: January 01, 2011, 09:48:12 PM

Working on my AUX transmission project.

I am having some issues, maybe some one of you who already finished your AUX transmission project have experienced these same issues and can shed some light.

I am following the article as written by Dick Wolcott based on John Demarras original work.

Received in all the parts, clutch disk, from Snyders, T.O. bearing and carrier from Vintage PW, u-joints, transmission front and rear sealed bearings, etc. locally.

So far, I have done the following:

Rebuilt the transmission and installed the new bearings. All looks good here.

I have machined the clutch cover down to the 3" as the article specifies. Removed the original pivot shaft and drilled out to 1/2" diameter and welded in a 1/2" diameter shaft to the original TO bearing "U" shaped clutch release yoke.

Again, so far all per the instructions and all looks exactly like the pics in the article.

I have the plates being made, so I don?t have them yet, but today, I decided to play around with the new clutch linkage and see where it will all line up.

I bolted the machined cast clutch cover with now welded shaft and "U" shaped release bracket onto the motors bell housing.

I tried putting the transmission into place.

Darned if the front bearing retainer/ throw out bearing carrier (the part that the TO bearing slides along) touches the clutch pressure plates actuating fingers! I cant go PAST the fingers. A quick measurement to the maximum depth I could go was about within 2"
between the mating surfaces (I believe I need around the total distance of the two plates, 1/2" and 3/8") I am not in far enough, AND those clutch fingers are not allowing me past this point.

That is my first issue. Diameter of new model "A" bearing carrier is bigger than the original. It also appears as if it will be TOO LONG. I thought I read somewhere that in some installations, one might need to trim back the length of the front bearing retainer/ throw out bearing carrier? Not sure where I read it, but it looks like this may be needed. Any thoughts? I wonder if there were different clutches with different fingers and sizes? hummm.

My second issue... after trying the above, I removed the transmission and put aside...I wanted to see just how the new throw out bearing and carrier would fit/work with my new release "U" lever in place..

Dang. The bottom portion of the ?U? bracket will touch the clutch body well before the clutch will disengage.. What the heck is going on? It the same ?U? bracket, pivoting from the same axis location, and the T.O bearing and carrier appear to be the same length as the original setup.

One last thought: the replacement Ford model ?A? clutch disk was very thick, much thicker than the one I removed (and it was in really good shape, nearly new).. The Ford disk looked like it had two (2) facings, making it about ?? thick.. the original wasn?t that thick at all.Do you think that the fact that the replacement disk being thicker would cause the release fingers to be in further in when installed than on the original disk?

It?s the ONLY thing I can think of that?s different.. ?U? bracket is the  same, TO carrier same size/distance face to bracket engagement, etc.

Can anyone help here? Anyone else see these issues in their project AUX tranny install?

Thanks for any input guys.. Dave
39  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: looking for a set of flat topped fenders... on: January 01, 2011, 11:56:23 AM
sorry, thats about All I have.. look at any Caterpillar 10 photos. or look at other crawleres.

For instance, look around this site... has many photos, some of the Cat 2 ton, some HOLT's, some have fenders....ere is

http://www.2tontractor.net/photos/photos03

here is a link to another cat site:

http://www.antiquecaterpillar.org/

thinking about it, I suppose if I can modify, weld, machine, etc I shouldnt even be asking to buy a set of fenders, but go aheand and make myself!  Geeezz.. whats wrong with me   Smiley

BTW.. the reason I want to install a set of flat tops is for a location for my battery and newly custom made battery box.

40  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / model "A" u-joints.. how to remove clip!!!!?? on: December 31, 2010, 01:28:10 PM
Jeeez.. could they have designed these any harder to get out?

I tried heating, penetrating oil, then a pair of vise grips on the part thats remaining (yes, it partially rusted away... probably why its so darn hard to remove)

ANy ideas short of cutting thru the cap and destroying both it and the cross joint?

Dave
41  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / looking for a set of flat topped fenders... on: December 30, 2010, 02:49:44 PM
like the ones as seen on, say, a Cat 10 for instance.

wish to add a set similair to this style to my Oliver HG42. (see attached pic)

If I cant find, I suppose I can custom make, but would prefer to find something I can retro-fit to work

decent shape, not perfect, is prefered.

what cha got?
42  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Opinions Welcome on: December 30, 2010, 12:25:00 PM
well, maybe not
sacraficed" but used once again!

I'll agree with not using any ww2 dated engine blocks, as they are getting scarce.. Post war dont seem all that scarce around these parts.

it was a idea anyway.

What about finding and using a MODEL "A" engine and transmission combintaion? Not sure if the stock bellhousing would be too large or not yo fit between the Oliver HG frame??

Sort of a part Model "A" Aux install per the AUX tranny section.
43  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Opinions Welcome on: December 29, 2010, 10:05:40 AM
one last option to consider: An early flat fender jeep and tranny. the early civilain 4 cylinder flat heads and T-90 transmissions are a small package as well.

I know the T-90 was coupled to the transfer case in the 4x4 jeeps, but there are also two wheel drive vehicles without the attached transfer case. Look to the older flat fender postal jeeps, panel and delivey wagons with the flat head 4 cylinder for the 2x4 configuration... besides that option, there may be a way to "divorce" the tranny from the transfer in a 4x4 setup and seal the back end up where the transfer attached. Dont know, just assuming some stuff and offering ideas.

Again, these engine/transmission combo's are pretty compact, simple and easy to work on..... and readily avaialbe. A scan thru the Dallas craigslist near me shows numerous ads selling older jeeps and parts.
44  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Opinions Welcome on: December 28, 2010, 08:17:37 PM
check out the dallas craigslist. search under CLETRAC

fellow selling a 1950 OC motor in tyler, TX. supposed to be in running shape... 400 bucks. not sure how far away from Dallas, TX you live, but its an option to find and purchase the later HG/OC motors.. find a good used one and just drop it in. should be a cheaper route for you.

good luck.
45  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / Military Cletracs / Military HG or OC3? on: December 28, 2010, 01:53:07 PM
(Posted this on another forum, so please be pateint if you have seen this before)

 I am now certain that the military, be it the Army, Air force or whatever branch, purchased and used HG /OC crawlers.

In fact, I have been in contact with one individual who sold the remains of a late 40's dated HG crawler many years ago that had an Air force Data tag on the chassis.
 
YES....he had an OLIVER...and it was military... it was NOT a clark Airborne...

He had an HG 42 to be exact. He sold it years ago, had the actual tractor in his possesion.

But, now that its gone, he cant find the photos he had of it.

According to him, it wasnt a U.S Army or Corp of Engineers data tag.

His exact words were:

"it is a HG-42 Cletrac serial number 28GA 308, Crismon's book shows a picture of one with full fenders,this one only had the small fenders, there is a large piece of plate attached to the frame that states it was "Developed by USAF FWS Nellis AFB MFG. By Randolph AFB"

so, he gives the serial number (an HG crawler, and NOT a Clark)

28GA 308 serial number puts it in the 1947 date range for HG42 crawlers


I have conversed with at least two other  individuals who have owned in the past military versions of the HG/OC3.
I know of another HG/OC owner who knows of a collector with one as well, but unfortuantly, that collector has not contacted me back to discuss details.

all this is great.. BUT  What I need is HARD evidence. that is an actual tag, or close up photos from someone. details of special equipment, light gaurds, taillights etc. I have seen the Cletrac crawler book by P.A. Letourneau with the single photo of a ww2 dated HG with the military tailights. good start, but I want to see more!

Any help or leads in the form of pictures, of the actual machine in operation, or the tag itself, actual tags, military manuals, etc would be appreciated.
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