Bumping the post. My rig is loaded and ready to roll when I get off work tomorrow.

Cheap stuff, but it is the grade called for in an OC4. And easier to find than W50 non detergent engine oil. Getting 140  mineral oil for my HG was as easy as calling the county's only petroleum dealer and picking it up.

I pass through Lodi, CA fairly often, but rarely when Bill Bechtold's shop is open or when I am not in a hurry. I dropped in hoping to find a local parts source in case i break anything and see what he had. Good thing I hade 3 hours to spare. Quite an impressive collection as I am sure some of you know, and Bill and Doug took the time to show us everything.

For the permanent record here, the spring was wrong, and it made a difference.

When I test drove my crawler the governor seemed to be non-functional, and it required throttle control just like driving a truck with a manual transmission. I am doing some work on it and took the governor out and found nothing wrong with it. Is it possible the exterior spring has changed due to age enough to become the problem? It could even have been changed out to whatever the PO had handy. Does anyone have tension specs for it?
I guess I had better call Mr Z in the morning.

My HG manual calls for 140 weight straight mineral oil. This is NOT the hypoid gear oil you will find easy to get. My OC3 manual calls or 90 weight straight mineral oil or 50 weight non-detergent motor oil.

I didnt have time to stop and identify it, but does anyone know anything about the M series tractor sitting by the highway just outside  of Delta, Utah?

The iron block expands with heat too. I cant say how much, but when making casting patterns for iron I asssume 1/8 inch per foot shrinkage when cooled. Hence my idea of hearing up the whole thing to operating temperature. It couldmalso be done by running hot water throught it.

On some OHV enginss I heard to set them .002 loose, but this is not the same. It is a small engine, could you put it in an oven at 180 degrees for a couple of hours?

Landis Zimmerman seems to be the go to guy here. Being a Mennonite, he has no email or Fax, you will have to call him on US Eastern Time zone business hours

I started work on  the starting system today. This tractor has a pre waterpump HG driveline and a mixup of parts from various models. The hand crank starter is belt driven and the upper pulley spins on the shaft. Inspection finds stripped keyways and a hogged out center hole. Also, is it normal for the crank pulley to be pinned in place? Good thing I am a machinist.

Looks like fun, and its only a few hours away.

Regardless of polarity, If that big terminal closest to the block is a resistor, it connects to switched power, the one connected to it on the left connects to the starter solonoid trigger terminal to give full voltage during cranking, and the right one goes to the distributor.

I have the OC3 parts book and it also uses the same drawing. I would assume Zimmerman would know the numbers if you describe the part.

Same here. As a mechanic I am in contempt of most miracle snake oils, but this one was made to clean fuel system on boats laid up for winter, and it works.