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16  Welcome & Rules - Please read before posting / New members introduce yourselves here / Re: Another newbie on: May 19, 2011, 11:53:07 AM
Hi Doug, Welcome aboard! 

Nice to keep a tractor in the family.  Let us know more about it.  Photos are always welcomed!

17  Welcome & Rules - Please read before posting / New members introduce yourselves here / Re: another newbie on: May 17, 2011, 10:21:45 AM
Welcome -- glad we've been a good resource, and glad you finally decided to join up.  Looking forward to seeing pictures of your 1953 OC-3-42 restoration - and glad that you are planning to put it to use when it is done.

I've done a few small tractor restorations, and put each of them back to work right away.  My biggest project to date has been a 1946 AG-6, which has been apart since 2003, when the engine developed a serious knock.  That prompted a full restoration, which is about 80% done.  I have to paint the chassis, install the replacement engine, and the refinished sheetmetal - not a lot of work left to do.  It is still waiting patiently for me to finish up.  It will go back to work shortly after I finish the restoration.

About two years into the project (2005), I reached a point where other aspects of life got in the way, and the project came to a hard stop.  It was apparent I wouldn't get back to work on it or finish any time soon. 

In 2008, I took advantage of an opportunity to pick up a running 1945 AG-6 that needed a track repair - it cost me less than a rebuilt engine.  I dropped off the track to Zimmerman's on a trip from NY to Washington DC that took me past his shop and picked up the repaired track on my way home.  So in about a 2 week span, I had a working tractor again.

But that didn't solve the issue of the tractor that is apart.  Finally, in the fall of 2009, I was able to finish up the work on the replacement engine, then mounted it to a dolly I built, and finally got it running on Jan 1, 2010.  At that point I was convinced that I would finish up the remaining work in the next year.  Soon after that, the project went back to a hard stop, due to a serious family health issue. 

I cross my fingers and hope again for the opportunity this year to complete the restoration. Time will tell.  My family (and I) will be glad to have the engine and other AG-6 parts out of the basement, and back into the tractor.

Anyway, that was a long way of saying we understand the longterm project you have undertaken, and look forward to hearing additional progress reports on your project.

18  Welcome & Rules - Please read before posting / New members introduce yourselves here / Re: NEW on: May 17, 2011, 09:33:05 AM
Welcome Tim,

How far would you want to travel for an AG?  Are you particular about an AG or can it be an AG-6?

Good luck with it - and let us know how we can help.

19  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: FIRE!!! on: May 17, 2011, 09:19:37 AM
Always worth sharing our experiences with gasoline and fire.  We all need to be reminded every so often about the dangers...  Not something to get complacent with.

I remember as a kid mixing up some liquid chlorine for a pool in an old gas can.  Damn good thing I put it down and went into the cabana for something else.  It took less than a minute to explode!   That gas can hadn't been used in years, and I thought it was bone dry. 

Same deal with using solder for repairing gas tanks.  Some things are best left to the pros.

20  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Tractor Updates on: December 22, 2010, 03:48:37 PM
Hey Bob,
The hand over the intake trick reminds me of one that's called a "rag technique" I learned about recently from Richard-TX, one of the Gravely fellas to clean idle and main jets.    This of course is applicable to carbureted gas engines...

It doesn't always work but seems to have better than a 50-50 chance that it does. The method is this: Have a rag in one hand. Start the engine. While running, open the throttle plate fully with one hand, when the engine reaches its max rated rpm, completely cover the air inlet to the carb with the rag. The engine will slow down due to no air. Before the RPMs drop too low, (about 1/2 a second) remove the rag and when the engine starts to rev up, start to release the throttle to keep the RPMs below rated max. Repeat. Adjust carb as needed. If after 3 tries, the carb does not clear, then you have to pull the carb and clean it manually. Do not over rev the engine.

What happens is that a tremendous about of vacuum is generated by the spinning engine. Because of this vacuum, by virtue that you are completely closing off the carb inlet, the vacuum pulls any dirt.etc. occluding the jets straight through. It beats tearing a carb completely apart.

It takes timing to keep from having to try to start a flooded engine or over revving the engine. With a little practice you can get good at it.

21  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Cab for OC-96 on: April 13, 2010, 01:34:36 PM
The Craigslist ad has been taken down - someone must have snapped it up!  I hope it was someone here!
22  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC-46 Build Progress on: April 05, 2010, 07:08:05 PM
It's looking great.  Thanks for the detailed photos and description.  It takes guts to do it right - especially to tear it all apart to get into the transmission when it was getting so close to done.  After what you found, bet you're glad you did it then!  

Keep those photos coming!

Oh, and thanks for the 12v alternator conversion document!  Now THAT I could use on my AG-6
23  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: adh 4z on: March 14, 2010, 12:51:57 PM
Quote from: "22-B"
Hi, I am new to this forum I have collected for years but never came across any cletrac machines until few weeks ago, I picked up a couple of adh 4z serial number, and now I would like to get some info on these little guys any advise or places to go for help will be greatly appreciated. thanks gib
Hi Gib,
Welcome to the forum.  Your 4z serial number indicates a 1948 model year.  The base model is a Model A, the D indicates diesel and the H indicates Hillside model - wider track than standard.

Good luck with them - and ask lots of questions here. Lots of knowledgeable folks out here.
24  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Need AG-6 Track adjustment help on: March 02, 2010, 10:49:19 PM
Quote from: "Denis in MI"
AG-6 my left track came off the drive sprocket, The Right hand side is tensioned but the left was very loose. What I need to know is how to tension the track and how tight it should be.
Hey Denis,  

I've had the tracks come off the front idler, both inside and outside, never the back.  Hmmm.

I have learned that when a track is loose, I need to be very gentle when steering - quick "nudges" on the brake handles, and watch the tracks.  When they start to get off, back up and turn in the opposite direction to re-set them.  The biggest trick is never let them get all the way off!

How to get them back on - a come-along will be a big help. Of course, if you have another machine with hydraulics (like a backhoe) that can help considerably too when used with a chain to pull at the right angle.  If you're lucky you can drive it backwards to get it back on, but more than likely you'll need to pull the master pin to re-align the track with the drive gear.

Adjusting - there's a big nut under the cover (rear of center between the drive and idler wheels) that is used to adjust the tracks.  More likely than not, it is rusted in place. I've been soaking mine to try and loosen the nut on the shaft, with no luck yet.  Zimmerman's sells a plasma cut wrench to fit that nut - it has an offset opening.

Good luck!
25  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Oc3 crawler on: January 14, 2010, 07:26:55 PM
Quote from: "5000-nut"
Hey I got the motor back in and have a Question about the rad-hose's?? Where is the best place to get hose, brand,style,is that a napa part?

I hope someone here can provide you the easy answer.  

Here's an alternative, just in case you are in a hurry...

If you don't have the old hoses to match up, record the following sets of measurements for each hose:

 1. Outer diameter of the fittings on the radiator and engine,
 2. Vertical difference between openings,
 3. Horizontal distance from the 'hose fully seated' position on each opening
 4. Straight line distance between the bottom center of each opening.  

Armed with that info, a parts store should be able to match you up with some hoses that fit, and you can take a tape measure to verify in the store that they'll fit.
26  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Hercules OOC fit my 20c? on: January 14, 2010, 07:43:07 AM
Quote from: "Robert Barbour"
The flywheel usually mounts with 4 bolts and two dowell pins.  The dowell pins are very important, do not leave them out. They  position the flywheel exactly where it should be and are much tighter fitting than the bolts to resist vibration.
Thanks for sharing the information on the dowell pins, Robert.  I continue to learn from more experienced people on this site. My experience is limited to my AG-6 -- the F6-226 engine had 6 bolts to mount the flywheel.
27  Other / Other Misc. / Re: Christmas wishes on: January 13, 2010, 10:00:42 PM
Quote from: "Bob"
Oh I just noticed It looks like you might have the levers pointed backwards too. They'll hit the gas tank! LOL

LOL  - Yes you obviously were paying better attention than I was!!!  That's one of my greatest challenges - if it is possible to put something on backwards, I will find a way!

They'll be coming off before I clean and paint, and I PROMISE I will get them on right in final assembly...
28  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Hercules OOC fit my 20c? on: January 13, 2010, 07:24:19 PM
Quote from: "diggerdirect"
Howdy all, just noticed on ebay is a rebuilt hercules ooc engine

listing# 270513377424
title- Cletrac and Hercules OOC rebuilt engine

 I guess my question is will this fit a 1935-36 20c?

the listing says (& I quote)  "The following are casting numbers: Block-222010 E  11 94, Timing cover- 23339-D, and the head is stamped 22748."

Everything looks the same.

  Sure would be easier than rebuilding one!

From what I see, the Hercules OOC engine is what came in the 20C originally.  Obviously from the eBay listing, it has a Cletrac bellhousing mounting plate on it.  Why would it not fit?  

I think the other considerations for you are what you have that bolts onto that engine & what is missing?  Assuming the rebuild was done well, you still have a long way to go before it is all back together and running.  But you have a point about it being easier than rebuilding, and if the price holds, looks like it could be a lot cheaper too.  

One of the things I noticed in the photos - the output fitting on the engine that affixes to the flywheel has only 4 bolts - why not the full 6?
29  Other / Other Misc. / Winter Update on: January 12, 2010, 02:22:39 PM
It has been cold here in NY - not a lot of snow, but enough to make me want to start up the 1945 AG-6 and plow some snow on the driveway.  I was concerned the tracks might be frozen in place - I hadn't had a chance to put it up on blocks to get it out of the mud before the cold weather came in.  I was able to break free easily, but the hydraulics are frozen.  Not a good sign - there must be enough moisture in the fluid that it won't move the blade.  I had the blade up on blocks, otherwise the tractor wouldn't have moved at all.

Note the dimensional lumber fenders and seat - functional engineering by the prior owner.  I will put "real" fenders on it someday (all donations are welcome!!!).  It's a good working machine and runs well.

I continue to make progress with the 1946 AG-6 restoration - even though the engine is running, there is much that remains to be done.  Since the engine is a F6-226 Continental automotive engine (Willys Super Hurricane) with a down-draft carb and manifold, and I have a Cletrac intake/exhaust manifold that will bolt-on, I am considering swapping manifolds.  That would make it easier to route the exhaust up through the hood, but I'd need to find an appropriate updraft carburetor.  Besides the carburetion choices, it will need a bracket for the belt-driven governor and a new linkage to the carburetor, etc.  

I have a long list of small tasks to do this winter in preparation for painting and re-assembly.  I am planning ahead as much as I can - with a detailed project plan in MS-EXCEL to keep my focus sharp - what can be done in the unheated dirt-floor garage at the farm vs. warm basement at home -- I have an hour's travel time between home and where the chassis sits, so it is essential to maximize the value of every weekend trip.  

Here's the unfinished part of the restoration project as it stands now (not shown is all the refinished sheetmetal):
and when I did a 'test fit' of the refinished firewall and new mounting brackets.  The brake handles are on to be sure I can stop it when it rolls off the blocks it sits on - I needed the extra clearance to clean & paint underneath.  

I've sorted through and cleaned or replaced all the hardware, now organized neatly in labeled coffee cans, so they are ready for re-assembly.  I also identified all the parts that needed attention: replaced the drive shaft bearing in the flywheel and clutch throw-out yoke bearing, and fitted the new drive shaft -- all new parts that I got from Zimmermans 6+ years ago.

For those who've seen some of this on my website, it is currently out of date - I have a backlog of updates to do once I resolve some access issues with the site host.
30  Cletrac Tractor Discussion / All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Cletrac FDE +parts in Midwest anyone interested? on: January 10, 2010, 08:21:14 PM
Quote from: "kpflzgrf"
Helping a friend clean up his Grandpa's farm and he has an old Cletrac model FDE that looks complete and was parked next to the barn years ago and has not moved since. There are some extra engine parts including cylinder heads, pistons, exhaust manifolds, what I think is intake manifolds, starter and there may have been a few other parts. Is this stuff worth anything other than scrap value? Any help would be appreciated. The serial number is 10Y446. It is located in north central Illinois.
It would be a shame to scrap it out.  Especially given the low value of scrap these days.  Looks like a 1946 by the serial number.  If you can take some photos and post them here, it might help generate some interest.
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