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News: Wishing you folks all a very Merry Christmas! From Blake Malkamaki and Cletrac.org.
 
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 1 
 on: July 16, 2018, 06:21:41 PM 
Started by Dianne - Last post by Dianne
Found my problem! A piece of  cast is  completely broken out on the #3 exhaust port directly into the coolant passage. Still haven't heard from my welder. I wonder if I could sleeve the exhaust port with some stainless steel and high temperate adhesive? Wonder if anybody makes an adhesive that holds up to exhaust temperatures right next to the valve?

I would hate to have to  change heads. This one has less than  50 hours on it since a complete rebuild!

 2 
 on: July 16, 2018, 03:34:04 PM 
Started by Dianne - Last post by Dianne
It has been a long time since I have been here - back in about 2005 when I was rebuilding my 1952 OC-46 with the 3 cylinder Hercules engine. I rebuilt it from a pile of scrap, used it for a few years for some major work around the property, and then  it has been parked for quite a few years.

I needed it again this summer so I got some fresh gas, topped up the fluids but, when I did I had coolant coming out of the exhaust manifold  Angry Angry Angry My friend came over with his big Case tractor and helped me get the loader off and this afternoon I pulled the cylinder head. I can't SEE a hole between the coolant passage and the cylinder but the way the coolant came pouring through, there has got to be one there somewhere!

The cylinders look okay but I need to get a valve spring compressor and take the valves out to get a good look in the head. I suspect a cracked head. A good friend is an excellent welder so I have asked him  to have a look at it. I hope to gawd that I can fix this head! There is probably less than 50 hours on it since new valves, guides, seats, and springs! If it can't be fixed, I am going to be on the hunt for another head  Angry

Thankfully it cranked okay once I got the head off (after I gave it a little "encouragement" with two 12 volt batteries in parallel ROFL!)

Anyway, just thought I would drop in and share my misery LOL!

 3 
 on: June 06, 2018, 10:51:14 AM 
Started by Steve Ruddy - Last post by Steve Ruddy
looks like I may have the insert type. I haven't looked at them yet but according to the engine serial number I should be safe. I'm waiting on a caliper set and a cylinder mic. I'm not sure yet what other tools I'll need besides the piston ring compressor and honer.

 4 
 on: June 04, 2018, 11:26:49 PM 
Started by Steve Ruddy - Last post by Jim Leap
Hello Steve,

Does your engine have insert bearings or "babbited" bearings? The earlier HG's had the babbited bearings. There is a shop in San Jose that can pour babbited bearings but it is very expensive. Sometimes it is cheaper to find a later model block that has insert bearing. If you do have the babbited bearings and if they have excessive wear then they will need to be re-poured and then line bored. All depends on how much wear of course. Might need to turn the crank too. The babbit bearings do have shims that can be removed to tighten clearance. You can use plastgage to check crank shaft bearing clearances but it is probably better to have a shop do this. You can easily tear down the engine but you will need to have some expensive measuring tools (e.g. an engine cylinder caliper to measure the cylinders to determine the amount of wear). The cylinders may require boring to fit oversize pistons or they may need to be sleeved. It is always good to have a block magnafluxed to check for cracks too. You may get lucky and have minimal wear and just get away with honing the cylinders, installing new rings and doing a valve job. The crankshaft may be fine too. All depends on the clearances and clearances are often best left to the experts. Hope this is helpful.

Jim

 5 
 on: June 02, 2018, 11:24:46 AM 
Started by Steve Ruddy - Last post by Steve Ruddy
Thanks for the membership. I'm from Guerneville Ca and am currently restoring an Oliver HGR-42 which now has metal tracks. We got it in 2008 from my wife's employer. I was able to get it started and thought I would just start playing with it. My wife had different ideas and as she was pressure washing it, kept asking me to take another piece off for easier cleaning. The next thing you know the whole tractor is disassembled and ready fort a complete rebuild! The restore got put on the back shelf for about 5 years but now we are in full swing again. I have a good memory for taking things apart and reassembly but never had to remember this long. Nuts and bolts are just in coffee cans! :-) Here is what she looked like when I went to pick her up. BTW wife nick named her Cricket.






 6 
 on: June 02, 2018, 11:09:35 AM 
Started by Steve Ruddy - Last post by Steve Ruddy
I'm in the process of rebuilding an Oliver HGR-42. I'm wondering if I should attempt the engine rebuild myself or send it out. I don't have any specialty tools other than a piston ring compressor and a cylinder honer the type you put in a drill. I'm good at disassembly and re assembly. Actually the tractor is in a million pieces right now. The other thing is I don't know of any local engine shops that do antique tractors. I'm in Sonoma County CA if anyone knows of a good shop.
Here is the engine plate.


 7 
 on: May 19, 2018, 09:11:52 PM 
Started by Hamish - Last post by ianoz
Could you post some photos , that may help ID it easier for the forum members

 8 
 on: May 09, 2018, 07:01:54 PM 
Started by yonson - Last post by yonson
Found the Model A rebuild kits at Snyders Antique Auto in Ohio.  Great customer service.

 9 
 on: May 08, 2018, 05:58:09 AM 
Started by Hamish - Last post by Hamish
Thanks for your reply Blake.

 10 
 on: April 26, 2018, 09:34:27 AM 
Started by ireding - Last post by ireding
I have an OC3 with a Ware loader. I also have a 7 ft backhoe off a MF compact tractor. I would like to mount the backhoe to the rear of the crawler. Can any one provide me with pictures or illustrations that show the mounting point that would have been used to mount a backhoe subframe. Thanks,   

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