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 1 
 on: Today at 05:09:30 PM 
Started by GlenT - Last post by Robert Barbour
The stud holes were not all the way through when the machine was new.  Those studs were a problem area and often broke.  Often when drilling out broken studs the hole was pushed through into the oil compartment.  I would use G8 or L9 bolts with loctite to seal the holes.

 2 
 on: Today at 09:27:46 AM 
Started by Jack in NB - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Glad you found the reason and happy it didn't do any damage.

 3 
 on: Today at 07:05:17 AM 
Started by Jack in NB - Last post by Jack in NB
Found the problem.

The gasket on the old filter remained in place on the filter bracket; the two thick gaskets prevented the threads on the new filter from engaging sufficiently.

 4 
 on: July 27, 2014, 08:21:28 AM 
Started by 79star - Last post by Bob
I don't know why it wouldn't work. Maybe put some legs on the ramps for support when loading. I've seen dozer beds for a while but have never been around them, just lowboys and tiltbeds.

 5 
 on: July 26, 2014, 09:10:33 AM 
Started by GlenT - Last post by GlenT
I just got my dead Brother-in-law's OC-3, serial 1WH384, which I read would put it as a 1951 model. It that hasn't been used much for the last 25 years. The Clark unit was very low on fluid and there was a lot of oil on the pan under the unit (part of Anderson Dozer package?). There were also one 5/8 stud broken on the front mount. upper left, and one frame side to Clark unit 5/8 bolt broken lower right front. I was able to get the remains of the broken stud and bolt out. I removed the bottom two studs on the front mount and poured kerosene in the Clark unit and it came out the front bottom stud holes and the lower right front bolt hole.

I also removed the seat and noticed the mounting holes went all the was through the case. This got me to thinking the Clark case to frame mounting holes were also drilled all the way through and the studs/bolts kept the transmission fluid in. This may be wishful thinking on my part. I really don't want to pull the Clark unit this early in the game.

So, are the Clark unit mounting holes all the way through the case?
If so, maybe I will be able to just replace the studs and bolts with new Grade 8. What type sealant would work good in the mounting holes?

I plan to pull the rear cover now to see what the gears look like after being low on fluid. What should I look for to see if being low on fluid hurt anything?

Thanks!

 6 
 on: July 26, 2014, 12:45:24 AM 
Started by Blake Malkamaki - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Welcome to the Cletrac Forum

 7 
 on: July 24, 2014, 10:05:41 AM 
Started by Blake Malkamaki - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Welcome to the Cletrac Forum

 8 
 on: July 24, 2014, 10:03:38 AM 
Started by Blake Malkamaki - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Welcome to the Cletrac Forum

 9 
 on: July 23, 2014, 07:45:40 AM 
Started by Blake Malkamaki - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Welcome to the Cletrac Forum

 10 
 on: July 22, 2014, 05:05:36 PM 
Started by jr/w.pa - Last post by jr/w.pa
I have what I believe is an Hg with a Trasco auxiliary transmission equipped with a Ware dozer blade. My questions are ? 
1) Is the Trasco gear shift pattern  the same 3 forward and 1 reverse pattern as the H pattern on the Hg by this I mean 1st is High on the right , reverse is low on the right , 2nd is high on the left and 3rd is low on the left with neutral in the center.
2) Is this the proper way to shift the Trasco Transmission, When shifting the Trasco from one gear to the next, I put the HG transmission in neutral then put in the clutch then move the Trasco transmission from one gear to the next.After which I put in the clutch on the  Hg 's transmission and move  from one gear to the next.
3) Can you place the the Trasco transmission in neutral and just use the regular transmission if you do not need to slow down the transmission
 Any help answering the above questions would be greatly appreciated

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