February 26, 2017, 04:12:55 PM *
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 on: February 21, 2017, 06:20:31 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by mikegt4
Thanks everyone for the advice.
I got most of it apart, actually everything came apart very easily. I haven't pulled the hub out yet but I have taken the front idler assembly apart to address some issues there. The idler has always been a bit out of line and I did replace the actual wheel a few years ago as the machine came to me with a section of the flange missing and a welded together axle shaft. Someone probably rammed the idler into an immovable object more than once as the rods through the springs are bent and one is smaller in diameter than the other (OC3?). Also I will take this opportunity to rebuild or replace the rollers.

As far as the sprocket, it's a mess. Fortunately I have a good spare. After a good cleaning it's easy to see why it would never stay tight. The holes for the studs have been welded to eliminate the cone washers and then ground out with a die grinder so that the sprocket would fit over the studs. Calling it a "hack job" is giving it too much credit. Work has stopped for now until the rain goes away.

 on: February 21, 2017, 03:10:47 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by Robert Barbour
I think it is the sprocket that breaks the lips off when the stud nuts get loose.  Once that happens the dirt gets past the seal and into the bearings and gears. It is important to check those sprocket nuts regularly and keep them tight.

 on: February 20, 2017, 11:25:47 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by oliverchris
Thanks Robert. Yes, that's the idea.

I used to machine just the lip insert to save the hubs, and then I thought to combine the thin-walled seal retainer with it. I wonder if it's the seal retainer shifting under a shock load delivered via worn bearings that break those lips? It'd be interesting to know if more of them break on clutch steering units that delivery larger loads to a single final drive.

I made ten inserts. If I can get to tell more people about them, I'll make more. I guess, my eBay is an option.

Have a good one...Chris

 on: February 20, 2017, 11:12:44 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by Robert Barbour
That is a good idea Chris. So you can take a hub with a broken seal lip and bore it out to the depth of the bearing to take your adapter.  That should save some old hubs and be a more economical repair.  I will keep in mind that you have those.

 on: February 20, 2017, 10:16:13 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by oliverchris
I've designed an insert that allows for the bearing and the seal retainer to be pressed into the hub, all in one piece of steel much stronger. In these photos, the seal is inserted at the bottom (#1) and the back (#2).

 on: February 20, 2017, 09:48:21 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by oliverchris
This is the lip Robert is talking about, with the seal retainer still inserted. Yes, it's often cracked-off entirely or chipped badly on bull gears that have taken some abuse.

 on: February 20, 2017, 07:37:34 PM 
Started by Bill Kycia - Last post by Bill Kycia
Richard,both my K s have the steel W type steering wheel.I assume you want original gas caps and the rear power pulley?  Bill 203 993-4771 Lets talk.

 on: February 19, 2017, 07:28:06 PM 
Started by Bill Kycia - Last post by Richard Borgaro
Looking for original Bakelite style K steering wheel. Belt pulley for K , gas caps 

 on: February 18, 2017, 10:42:03 PM 
Started by Bill Kycia - Last post by Bill Kycia
I picked up a K 20 today.Engine is stuck and head is off.Pretty complete tractor . I may use it for parts for mine.Is anyone looking for a K 20 project, or just parts.Also cletrac/Weidly engine parts.Still have E 38 parts tractor also. Bill in CT>

 on: February 17, 2017, 09:45:28 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by Robert Barbour
Before you consider fixing stripped threads, you need to inspect the hub.  Just inside the stud circle there  is a lip that holds the sleeve for the outer bearing seal.  This lip is often broken off when the sprocket gets loose.  Since you only have 5 of 10 studs left I would be very surprised if that lip is still there.  With out the lip there is nothing to hold that seal in place so the hub would need to be changes.   You can remove the ring gear from the hub by pressing them off after grinding off the rivet heads. To re-install heat the ring gear and cool the hub in the freezer.  rivets can be made from 10 or 12 inch spikes.

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