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News: Wishing you folks all a very Merry Christmas! From Blake Malkamaki and
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 on: Today at 07:57:26 PM 
Started by eliwhitney907 - Last post by eliwhitney907
yea I think all the fighting I done on that excavator track has made me overly paranoid!! I sure do like the new master link/cleats. did a seal on a newer D7 had that interlocking cleat what you unbolt and it comes right apart.  no matter the newer crap not as fun to work on as sumthin built in the 50's. I am looking forward to it.

 on: Today at 07:31:36 PM 
Started by eliwhitney907 - Last post by Lowspeedlife
That's two for ATF/heat!!!

 on: Today at 07:24:19 PM 
Started by eliwhitney907 - Last post by Bill Kycia
I just removed the master pins from my 1937 E-38. It was not too bad for being together 70 plus yrs.Used atf and heat.My son held a large drift with a pair of channel locks and I beat the piss out of them with with a 16 lb sledge.Mine were tapered and had to be driven out from right to left ,when facing rear of machine.This was stated in original factory manual. GOOD LUCK BILL IN CT.

 on: Today at 05:55:49 PM 
Started by eliwhitney907 - Last post by Lowspeedlife
Both my HG and my OC3 have cotter pins on both sides of the master track pin. I wouldn't imagine they put a cotter pin in both sides if it's a stepped pin, but you never know. I've not had them out as I said. Automatic transmission fluid is an excellent penetrating oil. Soak them good for several days if you can, a LITTLE heat would not hurt. If you heat them, then apply ATF it will help "suck" the fluid into the joint between the pin & track. I imagine that ATF comment will get a dozen or two replys on everyone's favorite penetrating oil.

Scott R.

 on: Today at 05:48:45 PM 
Started by eliwhitney907 - Last post by eliwhitney907
yea I may still have the drift on a handle we made when we were messing with that excavator.  I will be mostly alone so that is why I am entertaining the C-clamp notion.  calling it a C-clamp is perhaps misleading.  it more like a heavy duty U-joint press.  I am sure you could hang 50 ton off it with out it spreading.  my plan is to get the master link as near to the sprocket as I can and still get the clamp on it (so the track will not absorb hammer blows).  I will use a drill to put a shallow dimple in the pin so the point of the clamp centers, I will get the tension off the track with a chain come along.  I will tighten the clamp as much as I possibly can and then strike the end of the clamp with a 20 pound sledge.  if that don't work I will try getting a friend and the drift on a handle.... if all fails I will haul it to NC and press them out.  on a good note looking through the book I anticipate the rest should be moderately easy.  if my wife would just get done using it I could get started. she is dozing an acre for a garden and I am on 7-12 hour days at work for a while. I will report back if it works or not

 on: Today at 04:58:42 PM 
Started by Lowspeedlife - Last post by Lowspeedlife
I'll be cutting the track frame support arm braces tomorrow. They will be made from 3/8" steel plate, shaped something like this:

They will replace the two rods that someone welded  to this one. Hopefully they will do a better job than the original supports did & look much better than the rods do. I don't think I'll try to weld these in place. I don't have a lot of experience welding steel to cast, I know it should be heated first and allowed to cool slowly but for something like this I think paying a pro is well worth it.

 on: Today at 04:47:10 PM 
Started by Lowspeedlife - Last post by Lowspeedlife
Thanks for the reply Larry. I do prefer to do things one time if at all possible.
On another note I was able to braze the two pieces  that broke out of the manifold behind the carburetor back into place. With the carburetor in place it can hardly be seen. Once it gets some crud on it, it will not be seen at all.

Scott R.

 on: Today at 04:44:33 PM 
Started by eliwhitney907 - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Welcome to the Cletrac Forum! There are quite a few OC-3 and HG guys here to help you.


 on: Today at 04:42:43 PM 
Started by eliwhitney907 - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
They have a big drift with a handle that one guy can hold while another guy wacks it with a sledge. Position the master pin on the ground, or close to it so the track link does not move when you hit it. Some of those pins are stepped and only come out one way, but I am not sure about the OC-3 pins. You should be able to get them out.


 on: Today at 04:25:21 PM 
Started by eliwhitney907 - Last post by eliwhitney907
I will just be trying to pull the master pin's.  one on each side.  I have to disassemble the final drives and at best install new seals at worst completely overhaul them.  I see where on one side the keeper bolt/cotter key is gone. I fear them to be rusted in like you say.  the sprocket idler and bogeys are all in really good shape as well as the rails.  I will not need to do anything to that for some time.  I done a front idler on an excavator and we had to have NC bring they're portable 100ton master pin press down. this is my personal project so I want to avoid that cost.  we had built a beefy press frame and tried a 20ton porta power with no luck.  I really hope my OC3 pin is much easier

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