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August 22, 2014, 04:35:03 PM *
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News: 10/5/12 - All new members are REQUIRED to fill out the signature section of your profile. Otherwise, you may be deleted from the forum. This is to help me determine if you are a member or if you are a spammer. Thank you.

9/22/12 - I ask that you please add a signature line to your profiles on the Cletrac Forum to help me to determine who is spam and who is not. You don't need to drop everything and do this immediately, but please do it when you get a minute and you are visiting the forum. Just go to http://cletrac.org/forum2010/index.php?action=profile and put something in the signature area. If you no longer want to be a member on the Cletrac Forum, please remove your membership.

8/10/11 - Added a new board: Trucking and Hauling

5/30/11 - Just added several new pictures to the Photo Gallery, including several Alfta Track OC-4 working in snow logging, several from the Chicago Road Show, and some from a logging show (not all Oliver/Cletrac). All these pictures are from around 1963 and were scanned from old slides given to me by my late friend John W. Davis. Go to the Photo Gallery and click on "NEW" to see these pictures. Quality is marginal, but I think you will enjoy them.

2/13/11 - Just added a new board "New members introduce yourselves here".

Folks, I just added a new photo gallery where you can upload your own pictures with descriptions, etc. Right now this is in the beta testing stage to see how it works out. Give it a try, but please keep a backup copy of your pictures just in case we decide to use something else. I would prefer you use your real name on the photo gallery, but if you really don't want to, please use the same username as on the forum. Please put your images into the proper categories and take care when your write out your descriptions and image names so people can search for them. I am learning this as we go. At least at the beginning, I have it set up where the administrator has to approve members. I am afraid we may get porn spam in here if we leave it open. To get to the photo gallery, use this link: http://cletrac.org/photos/

Folks, when you join the forum, or when you get the chance to update your Profile, please be sure to put your location and interests. Filling out your signature would help as well. I've been getting some spammers joining and posting links to sites that are completely unrelated to Cletrac or Oliver, or anything to do with tractors. It would make it easier for me, as well as all the other members, if you guys would put your location and interest in your profile. See http://cletrac.org/forum2010/index.php?topic=1299.msg5184#msg5184

Thanks,
Administrator
 
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 1 
 on: August 20, 2014, 11:38:27 AM 
Started by ssadams - Last post by erik
Ssadams, did you buy the F? Around 2000 were built I think during the early 20s.
Erik

 2 
 on: August 19, 2014, 09:15:36 PM 
Started by Kneale Brownson - Last post by Bob
When I get a chance I'll look at mine and see if its the same as any of the others

 3 
 on: August 19, 2014, 06:03:42 PM 
Started by Kneale Brownson - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
I doubt the distributor was made by Wisconsin. It could be a Delco-Remy, or one of several manufacturers of electrical accessories. Some may even be interchangeable.

 4 
 on: August 19, 2014, 07:22:11 AM 
Started by Kneale Brownson - Last post by Kneale Brownson
Haven't been able to identify it.  Were there aftermarket distributors?

 5 
 on: August 18, 2014, 10:58:52 PM 
Started by Kneale Brownson - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Is there a name on the distributor itself?

 6 
 on: August 18, 2014, 11:01:45 AM 
Started by Kneale Brownson - Last post by Kneale Brownson


Where can I get a distributor cap and replacement retainer clip for the Wisconsin Six-cylinder engine used in the Cletrac 40?



Where can I get a carburetor that will fit the flange in the middle of the picture (Wheeler-Sclebler Model "AT" specified)?  The flange contains a butterfly operated by what looks to be a vacuum canister on the other side of the engine.

Anybody have a diagram of distributor/spark plug wiring and coolant hose arrangement?

I'm trying to help the Breckenridge, CO, Heritage Alliance prepare a display of a sawmill that was operated with this engine.

 7 
 on: August 17, 2014, 09:25:43 PM 
Started by Bill Kycia - Last post by Bill Kycia
My friend wants to sell his k20.It runs and is pretty complete,but does need some work.Original and unrestored It is located in CT. Asking $ 1000 Call me if interested.203 993-4771 Bill Must be sold ASAP

 8 
 on: August 17, 2014, 08:02:26 PM 
Started by John D - Last post by John D
It's been about a dozen years since I pulled the engine out. It was bad. I got another engine that needed work and finished that about Christmas 2009 and got it running on New Years Day 2010.  Then a lot of life stuff happened. The engine has been sitting in my furnace room at the house while the chassis was sitting in the equipment shed at the farm.  We are trying to clean out the house to move in a year or two and the engine needs to be back in the tractor. But first I needed to clean and paint the chassis. 

I cleaned and primed it last week and painted on Thursday and Friday.  I mixed the paint color myself. The sheet metal (radiator firewall etc) was painted and stored probably 10 years ago.  Reassembly to begin next week.   I will post progress photos as it moves along. Right now the files are too big to share.

 9 
 on: August 17, 2014, 01:45:42 PM 
Started by Paul Bianchi - Last post by Doug424
If they are really stuck, heat is the best way. In most cases I take a  small chisel or heavy screwdriver and put it in the gap and drive them free. One you get a little movemnt there add some penetrating oil and they should free up.

 10 
 on: August 17, 2014, 01:43:18 PM 
Started by GlenT - Last post by Doug424
They changed it since the early version was a bad design. The holes on the sides of the frame that mount the trans case would get worn, and further damage would occur to the casting. I've seen them stripped , and some break out the corner of the casting.  It seemed like a good idea that you could easily tilt the trans case, but they just didn't hold up very well. The later design had the frame extend all the way back to through the final drive mounts. The frame is sandwiched between the trans case & final drive housing, This was much stronger, but a real pain to work on. You need the remove the final housings and all the studs need to come out to free the trans case. I guess the early design was OK for the lighter duty farm machines, but as the OC-3's became more industrial machines with loaders and dozer blades installed on them, the early design failed quickly. I've repaired a lot of the early style frames by welding solid bushings in place of the open slot dersign where the studs are. 

You DEFINITELY need to periodically tighten all of the studs that hold the frame to the trans case. If your frame is good at the attachment points, that's the only way it will last.

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