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 on: March 28, 2017, 09:44:21 AM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by oliverchris
This won't work for all the rollers, but with the trackframe in the position you mention, flipped over, position a jack stand under an accessible roller. Then you can hammer down on the track frame in that area after applying some penetrating oils etc. You can get two or 3 out this way on an OC-4 trackframe.

This at least gives you vertical force (parallel to the studs), whereas any of the leverage methods using a bar, apply the force somewhat obliquely which tends to bend the studs, making them even more impossible to remove.

 on: March 25, 2017, 08:19:15 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by mikegt4
I was afraid of that, I don't have an O/A setup, even my brother who retired after a 35 year career as a pipe welder doesn't have one anymore.

 on: March 25, 2017, 10:58:08 AM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by oliverchris
Yeah, I have toiled over this problem too. It's enough to try the patience of a saint.
Doug is right real heat seems to be the only solution.

I've tried all kinds of heavy leverage methods, penetrating oils, using bad words  Angry etc. and for some rollers, just nothing else works.

 on: March 24, 2017, 11:35:02 AM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by Doug424
You need some real heat. You are just wasting time (and mapp gas) they way you are doing it.
With a real heating torch (oxy/acet or oxy/propane) it isn't that hard.

 on: March 23, 2017, 10:05:21 PM 
Started by mikegt4 - Last post by mikegt4
I am trying to remove the rollers from my OC46 track frame to rebuild them. The frame is out and turned upside down for access. So far it has taken me one month to get 2 rollers out. The axle saddles are frozen/rusted to the studs. I have tried penetrate, hammer, wedging under then and heat (the last of my MAPP gas, not O/A) and they just seem to be laughing at me. I am sure that I am not the only one to come across this problem. Anyone have a good method of getting these out?

The good news is that the ones that I have gotten out only need new bushing inserts. They were packed with hardened grease, so hard that I had to chip out what I could reach and burn out the rest. All clean and shiny now.

 on: March 23, 2017, 09:55:19 PM 
Started by Glen - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Welcome aboard Glen! I too learned on an 8N, then a Leader tractor that was similar in size to an 8N. Then I kinda restored my General that had been in our family since new. Then graduated to the bigger stuff. I was able to drive around our OC-96 when I was pretty small as it took no physical effort to go back and forth and steer. Wish we still had it.


 on: March 23, 2017, 11:59:46 AM 
Started by Glen - Last post by Glen
Have used the AG6H on and off for 55 years.  Started by putting a foot on the tank to pull the brakes.  Had to wedge down in front of seat to use clutch.  Was told when in trouble turn off ignition, don't recall that happening.  This is after about 5 years of experience with a Ford 8N, but that is another story.

The tractor is tired, would like to return to service.  Common problem, as with others here, track chain.

 on: March 07, 2017, 09:28:20 PM 
Started by vj - Last post by vj
Thanks Blake, I am just glad you got the site, I got to see pictures, All so got the torque spek. on the rod, main and head bolts from here. Grin

 on: March 07, 2017, 05:36:08 PM 
Started by Will_Faulkner - Last post by oliverchris
I am sure they will be A-OK then. Just friction from the seal surface, I imagine. That'll wane pretty quickly.
I like the ingenious way you filled them as you go  Smiley

 on: March 07, 2017, 04:18:38 PM 
Started by Will_Faulkner - Last post by Will_Faulkner
I oiled them with 30w oil as I assembled them.  Once one side had the bushing retainer assembly, seal and clip in I flipped it over, inserted the shaft and prefilled the roller with oil before assembling the other side.  The seals were installed correctly as I was extremely careful on making sure the seals were pointing the correct direction.

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