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 on: January 17, 2018, 07:55:06 PM 
Started by yonson - Last post by Jim Leap

Since you've got 36 views and no replies I'll take a stab at a reply to your question about where to get adapters etc. for a Model A transmission install in an OC3. I'm no expert here - I've got one HG with a model A transmission and I am in the process of setting up my second HG with a model A transmission. I am fairly familiar with the conversion process and, unless you can find a "Trasco" unit, you will need to provide adapter plate specs to a qualified fabrication shop and have them build the adapter. Obviously you will need the Model A transmission too. The adapters are easy to make but they take time and attention to detail to get them properly lined up and to get the spacings correct relative to the input shaft, throw out bearing etc. The fabrication instructions on this site are well written and should get you headed in the right direction. There are lots of options for the "U joint" assembly. It needs to be short enough to fit between the Model A transmission and the Clark transmission. You can use a Model A U-joint but I think a better approach is to have a fabrication shop build something that will allow you to remove the U-joints without moving the transmission or engine to allow clearance. The design in the write-up will work and is simple to build. As far as I know there are no "kits" commercially available for this conversion. Hopefully some other viewers will chime in here. There is a heading on this site specific to auxiliary transmissions under the HG heading. That would be a better location for this discussion.


 on: January 12, 2018, 03:17:11 PM 
Started by yonson - Last post by yonson
Haven't posted here in a while.  Am strongly considering installing Model A auxiliary trans in my '52 OC-3 as per the 2 write-ups found on this site.   Anyone know where I might find adapters & related items needed for the project?  Thanx

 on: January 10, 2018, 07:20:56 PM 
Started by Cord - Last post by Bill Kycia
Glad to help. I think k 20s have 8 bolts holding down engine.   Bill

 on: January 10, 2018, 01:31:05 PM 
Started by Cord - Last post by Cord
Thanks Bill, it's the sleeves that I must have been missing.  Engine was way too solid for having all of it's bolts removed.  I saw the shims, but strangely, there were only 4 engine bolts.

 on: January 07, 2018, 10:08:11 PM 
Started by Cord - Last post by Bill Kycia
Tim, its Bill  The bolts that hold the engine to the frame have sleeves thru the block and into the frame.Use a punch to drive the sleeves out.The engine should slide very easy on the frame rails  forward with just a tug.Also there are 2 bolts/screws that hold clutch peddle yoke to the throwout coupler that have to come out also.c Clutch input shaft will stay with engine when it slides forward.  Hope this helps.  There also some times shims between block feet and frame rails.  Bill  CT.

 on: January 07, 2018, 05:04:19 PM 
Started by Cord - Last post by Cord
After everything is disconnected, does the engine slide forward to disengage the clutch?  Doesnít want to move forward, but I really donít have leverage. Trying to determine if I should apply a little force or Iím missing something important.

 on: December 30, 2017, 03:21:15 PM 
Started by FordManMT2 - Last post by FordManMT2
No message came through on this post.

No message came through? Iím looking for the size of the PTO for a coupler. Not sure if itís a standard size or what but I canít find any information on them.

 on: December 30, 2017, 02:23:43 PM 
Started by rockhauler - Last post by rockhauler
I ordered the fan bearing from Olivercrawlers and I got a head  gasket kit.

 on: December 30, 2017, 02:08:02 AM 
Started by FordManMT2 - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
No message came through on this post.

 on: December 29, 2017, 10:03:11 AM 
Started by FordManMT2 - Last post by FordManMT2
Anyone know the size for a coupler? I have been searching online and havenít found much. Or does anyone know the diameter so I can make my own? TIA

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