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 on: August 06, 2018, 11:18:05 AM 
Started by Steve Ruddy - Last post by Steve Ruddy
So far I have only been able to get 3 rollers reassembled. I'm using new shafts and brass bushings but reusing the bushing retainers. I get everything assembled and the shaft doesn't spin freely. The first one I screwed up was due to dirt getting in during assembly. Then I noticed some of my bushings had the ends a bit mushroomed from installation. I tried to grind this down but haven't had luck saving those bushings. The last one I attempted I slid the bushing assembly on both ends of the shaft be fore assembley. Everything side on nice. I installed one side and the shaft spun nice but after installing the second side the shaft is bound. So what is the trick??? fwiw I'm using a vice to press in the bushings like the instruction manual shows.

 on: August 02, 2018, 07:28:34 AM 
Started by 3J1Bill - Last post by 3J1Bill
Cletrac M2 auction in Oct. in MO. Saw this on facebook. Bill

 on: July 19, 2018, 05:16:16 PM 
Started by Steve Ruddy - Last post by Dianne
Check your cylinder walls, particularly the area where the rings travel. If you have any scratches or non-circular wear, it will need to be bored over-size and that requires a  special machine 'cause you need to end up with an exact diameter (usually 25, 50, or 75 thou over) to match new pistons and rings.

15 years ago I found an automotive shop who  was willing (and excited!) to do my 3 cylinder Hercules.

 on: July 19, 2018, 05:09:39 PM 
Started by Dianne - Last post by Dianne
... how far from the seat and how far from the valve stem is the hole?

The hole is about half way between the  valve stem and the manifold mounting face but it is 1/4" wide and 1/2" long. It also includes a radius where the more-or-less round passage transitions to rectangular  so a threaded in plug would have to be pretty large.

I was also concerned that if I had one spot that corroded, gawd knows what other flaws there might be!

A replacement head seemed like a good idea under the circumstances.

 on: July 19, 2018, 09:14:03 AM 
Started by hotratz - Last post by sedanpilot
Thanx Hotratz!...  I just bought a 1957 OC-4 and wanted to run a small 12V winch on the back, this conversion did the trick...  I didn't change the drive pulley, used the one that came with the alternator (but used the belt you recommended), added another toggle switch for alternator excitement...  Would have been an extremely simple conversion except for having to pull the hydraulic pump to change the belt...  Pump had rigid pipe fittings and I didn't want to R&R the radiator, so I cut the pipe nipples with a hacksaw to remove the pump...  Once I pulled the pump I decided that I didn't need hydraulics, so I pulled the whole system off the crawler...  If I ever find a 3 point setup I can buy, I'll reinstall the hydraulics...  I would have spent hours/days trying to reinvent the wheel if I hadn't had your instructions...  Thanx again, David

 on: July 19, 2018, 02:18:01 AM 
Started by Steve Ruddy - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
Do you have any part of the original rubber track system? I assume this machine was recalled by Oliver and then changed back to steel.


 on: July 19, 2018, 02:16:42 AM 
Started by Dianne - Last post by Blake Malkamaki
It's hard to tell from your picture... how far from the seat and how far from the valve stem is the hole? Could it be plugged with a pipe plug and then machined off? They do install hardened valve seats and use some kind of adhesive to hold them in, so there is something that will hold up.


 on: July 16, 2018, 06:21:41 PM 
Started by Dianne - Last post by Dianne
Found my problem! A piece of  cast is  completely broken out on the #3 exhaust port directly into the coolant passage. Still haven't heard from my welder. I wonder if I could sleeve the exhaust port with some stainless steel and high temperate adhesive? Wonder if anybody makes an adhesive that holds up to exhaust temperatures right next to the valve?

I would hate to have to  change heads. This one has less than  50 hours on it since a complete rebuild!

 on: July 16, 2018, 03:34:04 PM 
Started by Dianne - Last post by Dianne
It has been a long time since I have been here - back in about 2005 when I was rebuilding my 1952 OC-46 with the 3 cylinder Hercules engine. I rebuilt it from a pile of scrap, used it for a few years for some major work around the property, and then  it has been parked for quite a few years.

I needed it again this summer so I got some fresh gas, topped up the fluids but, when I did I had coolant coming out of the exhaust manifold  Angry Angry Angry My friend came over with his big Case tractor and helped me get the loader off and this afternoon I pulled the cylinder head. I can't SEE a hole between the coolant passage and the cylinder but the way the coolant came pouring through, there has got to be one there somewhere!

The cylinders look okay but I need to get a valve spring compressor and take the valves out to get a good look in the head. I suspect a cracked head. A good friend is an excellent welder so I have asked him  to have a look at it. I hope to gawd that I can fix this head! There is probably less than 50 hours on it since new valves, guides, seats, and springs! If it can't be fixed, I am going to be on the hunt for another head  Angry

Thankfully it cranked okay once I got the head off (after I gave it a little "encouragement" with two 12 volt batteries in parallel ROFL!)

Anyway, just thought I would drop in and share my misery LOL!

 on: June 06, 2018, 10:51:14 AM 
Started by Steve Ruddy - Last post by Steve Ruddy
looks like I may have the insert type. I haven't looked at them yet but according to the engine serial number I should be safe. I'm waiting on a caliper set and a cylinder mic. I'm not sure yet what other tools I'll need besides the piston ring compressor and honer.

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