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Author Topic: WXLC-3 Engine shims  (Read 2511 times)
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pmarriott
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« on: May 10, 2009, 02:16:36 PM »

Hi all
Need some advice on the shims used between the bearing jounals on the conrods and the crankshaft. I have finally stripped the my engine down ready for cleaning and measuring. I noticed that various shims have been used between the journals, I see these shims are listed in the parts manual and was wondering whether it is essential they are fitted and what they do???

Each rod bearing has a different number as does the crankshaft. Some have one others two and some three. Should there be the same number on each as my engine has been rebuilt during the war and some may have been lost.

Any information on these shims would be helpful.

Regards

Paul
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by pmarriott » Logged
Robert Barbour
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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2009, 09:07:23 PM »

The shims are used to set each bearing clearance.  When you take it apart keep track of where all the shims go, so if your chrank and bearings are still good, you can put it back together easier.  You should still plastigage each bearing and modify the shims as required to get the proper bearing clearances.   For the WXLC3  mains should be .0025 to .0035 and rods .0015 to .0025.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Robert Barbour » Logged

Robert from Vancouver Island BC
pmarriott
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« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2009, 02:28:44 PM »

Thanks for the reply so quickly. Just so I have it clear in my mind the shims are used to ensure correct clearence of  the bearing and as such each journal may have to have different numbers of shims.

I am assuming, as per manual, that I still need to check for bearing wear by removing all shims and inserting a 30 thou shim between the crank and bearing shell and torque up the journal and if I cannot turn it the the shells are OK.

Then as you say us plasti gauge to create correct tolerance. Engine is now in total pieces and pistons and rings are in excellant condition. Will post a few more pictures at the weekend.

Regards

Paul
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by pmarriott » Logged
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2009, 05:19:32 PM »

Also make sure the numbers match up on the rods, caps, main caps, etc. They are line bored when new and are interchangeable.

Blake
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Blake » Logged

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Robert Barbour
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« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2009, 09:16:55 PM »

So now you have it apart and the pistons and rings look good.  What do the bores look like?  Can you see or feel a ridge at the top??  If so you need an inside mic to check the wear and for out of round.  What does the crank and bearings look like.  Do you have a mic to measure them to check the wear and for any taper.  I have a book on them somewere, I will look up what they recommend for limits on bore oversize and bearings.  I never like to re-use rings!  If I have an engine apart that I still want to use I would ream out any ridge and put in new rings.  Rings loose their spring tension with use.  If you get new rings you will see that they are larger in diameter than the ones you took out.  The new ones will have more pressure against the cylinder wall and seal better than the old ones. This is even more important for the oil control rings.

Blake is right on the main and rod caps, they must go back were they came from and can not be turn 180 degrees either!
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Robert Barbour » Logged

Robert from Vancouver Island BC
Robert Barbour
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« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2009, 10:40:32 PM »

Found the Book!!
Standard bore is 3.249 to 3.251  pistons are fit with .003 to .0035 clearance.  Rebore at .007
Mains, standard 1.988 to 1.987  clearance .002 to .0025  regrind at .005
Rods  1.748 to 1.747   clearance .001 to .0015  regrind at .003

These number for the mains and rods are for insert bearing which are non adjustable.  With the babbit you can do sum adjusting for wear as long as the taper is low.  If the crank has worn witha taper more than .0025 for the mains and .0015 for the rods, the crank should be ground.

These number will give you a good idea of the condition of your engine.  If you are at or over these limits your engine would not run well for long.
Then you can decide how much you intend to use the tractor over the cost of a good rebuild.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Robert Barbour » Logged

Robert from Vancouver Island BC
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