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Author Topic: UPDATE: AUX conversion ..DONE!!!  (Read 6167 times)
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da-choppa
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« on: January 21, 2011, 12:00:23 PM »

well, an update of my progress to you all.

FINALLY COMPLETED THE INSTALL TODAY.

 I can say I had a number of issues to contend with, but I finally got around them all. Had some pretty frustrating times, but its now behind me and the crawler is back together.

(BTW.. for anyone who might have read this post originaly, and my issues with the clutch not disegaging... It was a simple matter of leverage, lever arm location and all that. FIXED!!

Anyway, its together as of this afternoon.. I started it back up, and drove it a bit.. VERY little mind you, as my capillary tube to the oil pressure gauge burst! I guess I must have kinked it too much while moving parts around all this time.

arrggh.... one more setback..

Anyway, just the last step in this.. I got the battery relocated, cluch leverage and linkage all nice and tidy, etc, etc.

Will see what I think of the new LOWER gearing soon!
« Last Edit: January 22, 2011, 07:35:56 PM by da-choppa » Logged
da-choppa
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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2011, 01:55:40 PM »

fixed the capillary tube. No more leaks, didnt have to buy another one..

Anyway, took it out for a short spin.

All looks well...

Boy, does this transmission really make it slower! Putting the transmission in 4th and the original transaxle in 1st (originAl speeds) vs the transmission in 1st and transaxle in first really is quite a difference! wow!

.. put the transmission in REVERSE and transaxle in REVERSE and you go forward.  or was that the tranny is reverse and tranasaxle in forward speed and you go backwards.... Funny anyway the combinations you can get.
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hotratz
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2011, 05:09:03 PM »

Any Pics?
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da-choppa
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2011, 07:55:08 PM »

no pix yet. thought I would wait until I repainted it all. right now its part yellow, part primer etc.

A list of "changes" or better put, "deviations" I made from the two on-line AUX transmission articles.

1) used a stock model "A" cross shaft instead of finding me a piece of 7/8" diameter cold rolled rod.. Not getting lucky on the
    "remannts" section of the local warehouse for a short peice to purchase.
    This worked out well.. Had the hole drilled in the center of the shaft to mount a model "A" shifting fork.
    Same on the lever end for the linkage.. worked out well.

2) Built a removable linkage arm, one that uses a lenght of flat bar and a small lenght of pipe drilled with a 7/8" id to slip
   over the end of the cross shaft. In that I drilled a hole to secure this using a Grade 8 1/4-20-2" bolt

3) Using the design noted in #2, I was thus able to mount the entire assembly of bolted transmission, adapter plates and clutch housing as one assembly onto the engine. this saved the step of fishing the TO return spring inside a small access hole. Also, doing this I was able to use the otherwise inaccessable final clutch housing mounting bolt hidden behind the lever arm when installed. Bolt first, slip on the lever arm and secure with 1/4-20 grade 8 bolt.

4) instead of welding two (2) bolts ont othe inner mounting plate to mount the gas tank bracket too, I drilled and tapped a set of 3/8" threaded holes. to this I bolted down the welded up bracket. No big deal, thought I would mention.. its an option.

SUGGESTIONS: My entire setup is bolted together, allowing dis-assembly at any time. In fact, it saved me a lot of headaches as i needed to take down and put back together a number of times thru the install..

ALWAYS use grade 8 hardware... I thought, as I didnt have a 1/4-20 x 2" at the time, I could just substitue any old grade 2 bolt I had lying around to hold the shift lever to the cross shaft. after about 3 or 4 cycles of clutch engaging, it nearly sheared the bolt in two! I then realized I had the same grade 2 inside holding the shift fork to the cross shaft! Replaced that with a grade 8 as well. hope it holds up.. otherwise, welding is in order, possibly why John Demarrias welded all his parts together. for now, and if it holds, Ill keep it all fully bolted for disasembly.

anyway, I am no expert, but I AM a bit wiser having gone thru the process once! I learned a lot, learned how i really have little patience anymore, and learned to accept my constant grease under the nails and cuts and scrapes on the hands!! now to get the wife to understand and accept my short comings.  Smiley

Dave
« Last Edit: January 25, 2011, 08:02:50 AM by da-choppa » Logged
hotratz
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« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2011, 09:20:49 AM »

I was hoping you snapped a few during the build to show how it all came together.
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olemike
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2013, 08:50:53 PM »

Congratulations !!! Grin
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Ole Mike
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« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2013, 07:00:11 PM »

What happened to the pictures?HuhHuh?
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1941 HG 42 all original
1949 HG 68
oliverchris
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« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2016, 08:25:47 PM »

I read in the OC-4 manual never to use the reverse and reverse combo. I'm not sure if the same applies to the TRASCO Model A unit.
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Specialising in Oliver & Cletrac Crawlers & Parts for HG's, OC-3's & OC-4's from the 30's to the 60's. OC-6 and others from time
1945 Cletrac HG42 + electric snowblade
1952 OC-3-31 sidewalk plow, OC-3-42 + Ware 3-WI (several)
OC-3-42 Heller Universal Trencher
1957 Oliver Super 55, 1958 Oliver 550's Gas/Diesel, 1970's Oliver 1255 FWA
1969 White 2-44 13LL (loader/backhoe)
OC-4 4 cyl. Anderson Dozer, OC-4 Series B 6-way Dozer, OC-46 Series B Loaders
OC-46-A Experimental Crawler Loader
Demaris
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« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2016, 10:40:11 AM »

I suspect that is because the reverser used in the OC4 is nowhere near as rugged as what you get with a Ford Model A for an aux in an HG and OC3.   I have used my HG many times and worked it hard in reverse-reverse. No particular advantage to doing it. Just did it because I could.  Model A Ford trans is a very rugged unit.  Funny thing is - I've had my aux in my HG for years and done a lot of dirt-moving and log-pulling. Zero problems. But every once in awhile I stick the aux in 3rd that makes the HG as it was with NO aux - and now . . I cannot believe how fast and almost useless it is that way.

Funny thing about the original Trasco setup. Why did Oliver bother to remachine the input shaft to accept the original style clutch disk? Makes NO sense to me. I left my Model A trans original and used a Ford Model A disk and it has worked great.
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Robert Barbour
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« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2016, 04:45:20 PM »

The reverse gear set up in the OC 4 transmission is no where near as good as that used in the HG and OC 3.  So I would do as the OC 4 manual says and avoid reverse- reverse in the OC 4. 
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Robert from Vancouver Island BC
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2016, 12:06:01 AM »

Robert,

Do you mean the standard 4 speed OC-4 transmission? Or the reverser used in some tractors?

The reverse gear set up in the OC 4 transmission is no where near as good as that used in the HG and OC 3.  So I would do as the OC 4 manual says and avoid reverse- reverse in the OC 4. 
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My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.
Lowspeedlife
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2016, 05:25:55 PM »

And still no pictures!?! LOL.
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Proud poppa of an OC3 !
1941 HG 42 all original
1949 HG 68
Robert Barbour
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« Reply #12 on: May 01, 2016, 08:03:02 PM »

The reverser is a good little unit.  It is the reverse gear in the OC 4 transmission that is poor.   The reverse idler gear has a brass bushing that runs on about a 3/4" shaft. That bushing wears quite quickly.  On the OC 3 & Hg the idler gears is a double gear on two needle bearings. Much better!!
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Robert from Vancouver Island BC
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