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Author Topic: Cletrac MG/WXLC3 Spark Plugs?  (Read 10200 times)
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Matt Rimmer
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« on: March 21, 2011, 06:47:46 AM »

Hi,

I'm just getting ready to start my Cletrac MG for the first time in over 10 years and I have found the sparking plugs fitted are old German made Bosch,the part number of which does not cross reference with anything I can find. I would be very greatful if anyone can give me an idea of the best plugs to use.

I must buy a shop manual!

Thanks,

Matt.
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Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2011, 02:35:40 PM »

Are the old plugs bad? If not I would use them as Bosch plugs are usually pretty good. I try to avoid Champions.
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waayfast
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« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2011, 03:16:39 PM »

Matt, I looked at three of my engines and the parts manual.

Manual:"Champion#0-comm,includes #1675"  Maybe the 1675 is another plug#??

Cletrac #1:"AC 76com"
Cletrac #2:"AC 75com"
Cletrac #3:"Husky Blue Crown 74com"

 As you can see,each plug has "com" at the end. Couldn't tell ya what that means except to guess it has something to do with Communication, like in noise suppression?Huh

Hope any of this helps.BTW You wouldn't happen to have the plate the aircompressor sits on or the dimension so I could fab one? Jim
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pmarriott
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« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2011, 05:37:11 PM »

Quote: "You wouldn't happen to have the plate the aircompressor sits on or the dimension so I could fab one?"



Here is a picture of the plate that you require, unfortunately I have lost the dimensions of it!

I will be measuring that very same mounting plate in the next week or two if that helps.

Is it the later compressor mounting plate that you need as shown above?? I.E. Ingersoll Rand Model 3321c compressor

Matt I think the plugs I bought for my engine were Champion 1 comm, will check up tommorrow. Seem to remember that they were 22mm threads???

Cheers
Paul
« Last Edit: March 21, 2011, 05:39:12 PM by pmarriott » Logged
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2011, 07:40:40 PM »

The COM means commercial. These are the Champion 7/8 inch plugs used in many Cletracs through the years. The number following is the heat range - I think the higher the number, the hotter the plug. Champion replaced the COM1 with the W-14 or W-18 plug. You'd have to check the recommended heat range. The same plugs were used in the IXK-3 Hercules in the HG or early OC-3, so a good parts store should be able to look them up.

The old Champions were good plugs (still have some in use), but as I posted below, I now try to stay away from Champions as I, and a lot of others, have had trouble with them fouling with gasoline.

Also, some recommend going up one heat range if you are going to run gasoline with ethanol in it.

Blake

Matt, I looked at three of my engines and the parts manual.

Manual:"Champion#0-comm,includes #1675"  Maybe the 1675 is another plug#??

Cletrac #1:"AC 76com"
Cletrac #2:"AC 75com"
Cletrac #3:"Husky Blue Crown 74com"

 As you can see,each plug has "com" at the end. Couldn't tell ya what that means except to guess it has something to do with Communication, like in noise suppression?Huh

Hope any of this helps.BTW You wouldn't happen to have the plate the aircompressor sits on or the dimension so I could fab one? Jim
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« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2011, 02:56:45 PM »

Hello Paul,
   Yes, the mount plate is for the later (larger) compressor.I found a compressor but no plate but I think the plate won't be too hard to fab up if I can't find one.If you could copy down the dimensions I'd be grateful.

  Also did you ever find a bumper--seems like long ago you were looking for one.

 And lastly, have you shipped out any top bow kits to the U.S. yet? If you have any left I would still like a set.
    Thanks, Jim
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14JA062
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« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2011, 03:27:15 PM »

Hi Matt,
the original plugs were Champion 0-COMM.
1675 is the Cletrac part number for the spark plug gasket. The Cletrac part number for the spark plug was 125243. These numbers of course help nothing.
When I restored my engine (already some years ago), we found in an old Champion conversion list the replacement: Champion W10. I installed these and my engine runs well, drove it over 25 miles one day.
Jean.
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Matt Rimmer
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« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2011, 08:24:27 AM »

Thanks everyone for your replies. The plugs fitted appear to be pre-war Bosch and are pretty tired!. Jean that's great! I have found a source for NOS Champion 0-Comm and have ordered a set along with replacement HT leads so hopefully we should be running soon!.
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wanderingwillys
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« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2011, 01:23:59 AM »

Paul and Jim - I have the plate assembly and supports on the second of my tractors - I am in Alaska at the moment but will be passing back through home on the way to Oregon next week - I can get the measurements easily enough as it is missing the compressor...

I am not totally sure but I think it may be the plate for the earlier model 30 compressor... Time will tell

Matt
« Last Edit: March 27, 2011, 01:27:22 AM by wanderingwillys » Logged

1940 M2 AG     S/N 1X2072
1942 M2 MG-1 S/N 4JA836
1943 M2 MG-1 S/N 9JA422
Matt Rimmer
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« Reply #9 on: April 05, 2011, 08:41:25 AM »

I now have NOS Champion 0 COM plugs and have almost completed making replacement HT leads but I have another question! what is the correct plug gap?!

Thanks,

Matt.
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« Reply #10 on: April 05, 2011, 12:19:59 PM »

Matt, my book says .020 to .25 for plug gap.You probly already changed the oil and filters before the startup,glad I did mine. It was very bad--the filters had rusted/deteriorated to the point I had to dig them out of the canisters.Of course the original filters have been discontinued but NAPA says their 1503 is listed as a replacement.

   The timing marks on the fly wheel are viewed thru the little plate on top the clutch/trans housing under the instrument cluster, a real bear to get an eyeball on. Point gap is.018-.024.

  Also been meaning to tell you to NOT try to shift the trans on the beast without using the clutch. Like perhaps standing on the ground beside it and reaching over the fender to make sure it is in neutral.The trans is set up with slots on the shift rails --you push the clutch and that "other" linkage raises the pawls to allow the rails to move.
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Matt Rimmer
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« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2011, 01:07:19 PM »

Thanks to all who helped me on this,today we finally got the Cletrac started and it runs very sweet though the clutch is stuck so we were only able to move it by starting in gear. At least we have establised the motor is good,the water pump leaks so will need to be rebuilt/replaced.

Matt.
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« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2011, 01:50:10 PM »

COOL! That's good news!I know of a runner(belongs to a Museum) that the water pump also leaks and they were wondering how to repair that or where to get a replacement,I haven't needed to get into one yet(thankfully) so I will be interested in your  repair.

Also have noticed in my parts book that the mufflers on the Cletrac were supplied/manufactured by Nelson, which I see that our Deuce and a half trucks mufflers are manufactured by Nelson! Have not pulled any muffler off a Cletrac yet to get measurements or compare so don't know if we have a chance at Nelson( or anyone for that matter) having a ready built, on the shelf replacement, for a muffler.

1JA to 7JA, the compressor was the early(smaller) style, 7JA and up had the large Compressor.

Now---- if it will ever stop snowing here-------------------------------!!!!
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14JA062
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« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2011, 02:01:23 PM »

Hi Matt,
I just read that you started your Cletrac in gear because the clutch was stuck. I recommend not to do that again, I did it once and bent the teeth of the starter motor sprocket. The Cletrac is too heavy for that. When the teeth are bent, you notice it by an irregular noise in the starter motor when starting the engine. I had to have a new sprocket made.
Jean.
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Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #14 on: April 26, 2011, 05:20:22 PM »

The muffler is a Nelson T-1432. From my parts book, it looks like the water pump has porcelain seals. These are not uncommon, so you should be able to find them. Jerry Biro at this page http://cletrac.org/pages/parts.html has lots of Hercules parts and may have what you need. If you can't find anything, check with someone who sells rebuilt water pumps for antique cars as I know some take pumps such as from a Model A Ford and put modern seals in them.

Blake
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My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.
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