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Author Topic: Having problems reassembling HG Track Rollers  (Read 61 times)
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Steve Ruddy
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« on: August 06, 2018, 11:18:05 AM »

So far I have only been able to get 3 rollers reassembled. I'm using new shafts and brass bushings but reusing the bushing retainers. I get everything assembled and the shaft doesn't spin freely. The first one I screwed up was due to dirt getting in during assembly. Then I noticed some of my bushings had the ends a bit mushroomed from installation. I tried to grind this down but haven't had luck saving those bushings. The last one I attempted I slid the bushing assembly on both ends of the shaft be fore assembley. Everything side on nice. I installed one side and the shaft spun nice but after installing the second side the shaft is bound. So what is the trick??? fwiw I'm using a vice to press in the bushings like the instruction manual shows.
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Jack in NB
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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2018, 06:35:17 AM »

Hello Steve -

I've run into that too, and if I could turn the roller with ANY device (chain wrench, 4 ft pipe wrench,), I put it on one of the front positions on the track frame where I think there's the most weight (and traction to turn the roller!). Those worked free in short order.

If they wouldn't budge at all, I drove out one retainer and took a round file to the high spots that showed up (clearly!) on the bushings. I used stp when assembling - probably overkill but I had surplus.
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1952 OC 3 6WH994
mikegt4
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« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2018, 10:07:37 AM »

I recently rebuilt some rollers on my OC46 and found that the rollers can bind if not carefully assembled.

Use a hydraulic press to install the bushing into the retainer and the retainer into the axle, not a hammer, I hope that I didn't have to say that.

Make sure that the bushing doesn't protrude from the end of the retainer that goes towards the centering ridge on the axle. Actually if it protrudes from either end or the end of the retainer is worn enough that the grooves are nearly gone then it's time to replace the retainer.

When pressing the bushing retainers into the roller (use a piece of pipe or deep socket) only push them in enough to just clear the retaining clip slot but don't install the clip yet. Press in one retainer, flip the roller over, install axle then press in the other retainer. With both retainers pressed in you will find that the axle will have some slop side to side. Now you can determine how much farther one or both retainers have to be pressed in to eliminate all but .010"-.015" or so of the slop. It does take some fiddling to get to the point that there is only the slightest side to side movement of the axle. If you go too far and bind the axle then just use the axle to move the retainer back in it's bore until clearance is regained. If the retainers contact the centering ridge on the axle then there will be drag that will keep the roller from rotating. Too much slop will allow the roller to slide back and forth on the shaft. The goal is to have enough clearance to allow oil between the centering ridge and the retainers yet not enough to allow the roller to flop around side to side. Each retainer, especially used ones, will be slightly different so you will find that no two retainers will be pressed in their bore to exactly the same depth, again it takes some fiddling but once you get a feel for it they go pretty quickly.

Even though you already have your rollers assembled you can still generate some clearance by using the axle to push the retainer(s) back out in there bore but if you go too far (easy to do) you will have to remove the seal to push they back in again.
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Jim Leap
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« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2018, 09:55:03 PM »

Just a reminder to install the roller oil seals "backwards" to allow for oil to flow past them. I learned this one the hard way.

Jim
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Jim Leap
HG 68
HG 42
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