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Author Topic: generator vs. alternator  (Read 26794 times)
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Log Skidder
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« Reply #15 on: October 30, 2003, 12:13:27 PM »

When I first bought my HG the battery had been swapped for an 8 volt, so I don't know if it would have worked, but at least it spun freely and allowed the proper belt. But now it is seized up and that doesn't work at all.  My habit of leaving the charger on it overnight may have not been good for the battery either.  Sometimes I would forget about the thing charging.  I suppose the best thing is to have a good alternator for charging when you're running it and then one of those battery maintance boxes that you can plug in to an AC source when you are not using it (like over winter).  Compare the cost to buying a new battery each spring because the old one discharged, then froze and cracked the case.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Log Skidder » Logged
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #16 on: October 30, 2003, 12:31:46 PM »

I moved this thread over to Product and Accessory as it could pertain to any model and is more accessory related than tractor. A good discussion though.

I'd like to see some imput on repair places and suppliers that will repair or sell replacement generators for these tractors. This I will add to the site under "Parts Sources".
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Blake » Logged

My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.
ggibby
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« Reply #17 on: October 30, 2003, 10:21:46 PM »

The Green Belt was supposed to be for low horse power applications.
I think that running lawn mower blades and the like was the real intent for it.
But I figured that 5 hp for the fan/water pump and 5hp for the alt. and that low rpm in general of the tractor that it would be fine.
And I think that the green one fit or was availible at the time.
The pulley is a 2 incher that was on the junk shelf the old one was a 2.5 that came with it.
I was just trying to spin up the alt to charge more at a lower tractor rpm.
I used an after market Amp. gauge to replace the broken original, a Volt gauge my be easier to judge battery state though.
Having a more relible machine tents to melt away the original vs. mordern ease less of a debate for the owner.
Do the best job of the updates you can and you will be happy with a job well done.
Good luck.
George Gibby
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by ggibby » Logged
Log Skidder
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« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2003, 09:46:28 AM »

Well I think I have the three wire thing figured out.  

I replaced the alternator on the Case Backhoe over the weekend.  It turned out that it was an externally regulated Prestolite alternator, but the Delco 10SI was a perfect fit, both the belt pulley and the mounting locations were a good match.  

So with a three wire, you have the Batt terminal, and  then a connector for the other two wires.  Some of the end cases are labeled with "1" and "2".  There are plenty of sites that show illustrations.  

The number "2" wire is the voltage sense wire.  Wherever that wire is connected, the regulator will adjust the alternator to gring that point up to 14.2 volts.  I just hooked mine to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.  So with everything running the batt terminal was at 14.2 volts.  And due to current flowing to the battery and the resistance in the cables going to the battery, I measured 14.12 at the battery.  perfect for charging.  If I wanted 14.2 volts at the battery I could have hooked the number two wire to the battery terminal.  Then the output from the alternator might have been 14.5 or something so that the battery lug was at 14.2 volts.  

Then the "1" wire is the "turn-on and warning light terminal"  This does not have to be connected to anything.  But it can be connected to a ignition switched source as well as a warning light.  The way this is wired is that you connect from the positive battery post a switch (ignition "on") then in series a warning light and then to the "1" wire connector on the alternator.

When you first turn on this switch, without engine running, the regulator "1" terminal is low so the light will be on.  power flowing through the light also "turns on" the regulator.  This means that you don't have to rev the engine to "self-excite" the regulator.  It starts working at 500 RPM.  When you get to 500 RPM the warning light should go out because the "1" connector is brought up to the output voltage of the battery.  If you broke a belt or the engine stopped (of course you would be aware of these things on a tractor) the warning light would come on again.  

Cool stuff.

I agree that reliability is the best of all.  

And of course this high-tech alternator can be had for $25-$30 from any auto-parts store, even cheaper online ($16) compared to $200 for an authentic generator and regulator.    I can build a pretty fancy bracket and a special pulley for the wide belt for a lot less than $170.  

Would anyone be interested in buy a bracket and pulley for this type of alternator for their IX series engine?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Log Skidder » Logged
John Schwiebert
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« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2003, 08:47:14 PM »

A couple other things and I am not in the thinking mode today. Had to go to doctor should be over that in a couple of days, anyhow the 6 volt lights will get real bright on 12 volt and then it will get real dark. We just took alternators from the Junk yard and hooked them up. If I remember correctly we put a resistor in the one wire. The single wire setup came later and I think it is the way to go. We did a bunch of 77 & 88 diesels and never had any problems charging at low speed. I guess this winter I need to research some of this stuff. Have not done it on a regular basis since 76
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by John Schwiebert » Logged

John Schwiebert
Log Skidder
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« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2004, 10:26:21 AM »

I am almost finished with the alternator bracket.  

I am switching things around a bit on my crawler, so many things have been modified on this machine by previous owner(s) that I am not concerned with restoring to perfect original condition.  

I am adding an ignition switch, one with a key, that has four positions, off, accessories on, accessories and ignition on, and momentary starter.  I am going to run a 12 volt battery, 12 volt alternator, a switch for lights (previously I had no lights at all so this is an improvement).  Also there will be a starter solenoid activated by the ignition switch.  I am going to run another relay to work with the ignition.  basically I am using a normally closed relay hooked up to the magneto.  So that when the relay is not energized the magneto wire will be pulled to ground.  When the ignition is turned on the relay activates and pulls the magneto wire off ground.  

I think I might relocate the battery up front.  I was going to add a bracket to put weight up on the front of the machine anyway to help keep the front end on the ground when I am pulling logs.  And that gets the battery away from the area between the gas tank and brake levers.
That will make it easier to get to the battery If I have to jump start something.  

I will try to send some pictures of the alternator bracket when I am done.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Log Skidder » Logged
Bill Seal
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« Reply #21 on: March 18, 2004, 10:27:14 PM »

Nobody asked, but I have been running my OC3 starter on a 12 volt battery for 25 years or so, and the one on my Ford V8-60 powered hot rod for about 50 years. They just spin REAL fast! The rod has a Mazda alternator, but the OC3 just runs on the battery (magneto, no lights). Wal Mart has a cheap 10 amp marine charger which just cuts out when the batt is fully charged, and won't over charge it.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Bill Seal » Logged
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #22 on: March 18, 2004, 11:21:46 PM »

Running 12 volts through a 6 volt starter is probably better on the starter than running 6 volts as they spin so fast and start so quick. Therefore the starter is not used as long.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Blake » Logged

My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.
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