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Author Topic: Grease Vs Oil  (Read 10861 times)
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thecatskinner
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« on: August 05, 2002, 03:29:32 PM »

I know what the manual says about lubrication for rollers and sprockets but I have also read that grease can be used without ill effects on "not new" undercarriages.
Thoughts and comments?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by thecatskinner » Logged
Doug
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« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2002, 04:23:40 PM »

In my opinion, I think grease would be alright, as in some machines the seals are worn and the oil just runs out. If everything is perfect, yes the oil is best, but in the real world, the one of worn old crawlers, I think I would use grease. There is a grade of grease especially made for track rollers, it's a bit runny compared to regular grease
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Doug » Logged
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2002, 11:11:09 PM »

Use 50 wt oil unless it won't stay in. Then use heavier oil. Use grease as a last resort if the seals are shot and you can't keep oil in at all.

Blake
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Blake » Logged

My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.
thecatskinner
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« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2002, 08:37:42 AM »

OK, now that raises more questions.

I can get 40W, but not found single viscostiy 50 or 60 for that matter.  
I am running 85-140W gear oil now.  90W gear oil is about the same viscosity as 50W motor oil.  
Has anyone found a source for single viscosity oils?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by thecatskinner » Logged
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2002, 11:25:24 AM »

The 90 Wt gear oil sure stinks! But it would probably be ok to use unless you run your tractor a lot when it's real cold out.

I used to buy 50 wt and 70 wt non-detergent from Amalie back when the stuff was made in Bradford, PA. The last 50 wt I bought was a detergent diesel motor oil. Detergent oil should be fine. I think I have seen 50 wt racing oil readily available too.

There are a lot of oils available that are not your off-the-sheft Walmart grades. Call around to places that just sell oil and lubricants and I'm sure you'll find what you need. There are a lot of industrial gear oils that the general public does not use.

Blake
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Blake » Logged

My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.
thecatskinner
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« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2002, 03:45:44 PM »

I should clarify that the gear oil is not going in the engine:o:o;)
I have 40W for the engine but really would prefer to run Rotella T since that is pretty much in everything else.
I did look at Central Tractor and didn't find many single viscosity oils.  I then went to the Pennzoil web site and they don't list any of the things I was looking for.
I'll keep looking around.  
Thanks:D:D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by thecatskinner » Logged
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2002, 07:30:49 PM »

I figured you were talking about oil for the transmission, final drives, and lower track wheels. For the engine, I would use any good engine oil - Rotella is great stuff. Just watch that if your engine is really full of crud now, the Rotella will probably loosen things up pretty quickly. I'd get her good and hot and change the oil and filter a little sooner than normal for awhile.

I don't put much stock in Pennzoil anymore since they sold out to Shell. Ever since they moved out of Oil City, I gave up on them.

Blake
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Blake » Logged

My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.
thecatskinner
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« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2002, 09:06:03 PM »

I will keep a close watch on it if I change to Rotella.  The oil was very clean when I got it but I'm not sure what was in it--the guy i got it from really didn't know a lot about it.
I have the same feelings about Pennzoil, the primary reason I checked there sight was because they have a big distributor neat me.

My book calls for 140 in the rollers in this weather, but I have been unable to find straight 140.  As you can see from the picture the multi-viscosity tends to "drupe" a bit:o;)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by thecatskinner » Logged
John
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« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2002, 10:46:52 PM »

Been using grease in my HG's rollers and front idlers...purge till you see fresh grease from the seal area,lube daily if worked hard...had no problem yet...some people say oil only,but most who do sell repair parts....
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by John » Logged
pvcarey
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« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2003, 10:30:24 PM »

just a word on grease verces oil, if grease is used do not use a "EP" grease as it will eat the yellow metals (brass, copper ect.)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by pvcarey » Logged
Blake Malkamaki
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« Reply #10 on: January 25, 2003, 11:59:53 AM »

Quote

.some people say oil only,but most who do sell repair parts....


The factory says use oil and my grandfather who was Experimental Engineer said use oil. If you do choose to use grease, use something like "00" grease - a grease that is almost as thin as oil. Grease does not flow enough to get to where it's needed to lubricate properly.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Blake » Logged

My gramps Howard van Driest was Experimental Engineer at Cletrac and Oliver Corporation. After the plant closed, he and my uncle started an excavating business, initially using Cletrac and Oliver Crawler tractors. Please help Support This Site and give your business exposure by buying a business card sized ad.
redlineoryourmine
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« Reply #11 on: June 20, 2003, 06:49:48 PM »

EP gear oil does the same thing it eats at bronze and other yellow metals.  i wouldnt use pennzoil on my bicycle chain no wax needed in my motors.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by redlineoryourmine » Logged
Ray
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« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2004, 03:05:46 PM »

If you are using your crawler for any type of work, DO NOT USE GREASE! <p<Only put FLOWABLE lubrication in the track roller and font idlers. This is VERY important because grease will be scraped away from the shaft after the first few feet you drive your crawler.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Ray » Logged

My comments are not meant to discourage other members from posting, I encourage everyone to voice their opinion.
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Ray
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« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2004, 03:06:54 PM »

If you are using your crawler for any type of work, DO NOT USE GREASE! <p>Only put FLOWABLE lubrication in the track roller and font idlers. This is VERY important because grease will be scraped away from the shaft after the first few feet you drive your crawler.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Ray » Logged

My comments are not meant to discourage other members from posting, I encourage everyone to voice their opinion.
VENDOR: Zimmerman Oliver-Cletrac
Parts for Oliver and Cletrac Crawlers is our specialty.
www.olivercletrac.com
Dave Peters
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« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2004, 03:57:55 PM »

We have used grade "00" gear grease, it stays in poor seals but is self collapsing. we've also used it in rotavator gear cases where the seals were really bad, with no problems
Dave
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Dave Peters » Logged
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