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Geez.. One would think these wouldnt be all that hard to score.

I got a lead on a few, but no deals yet.

I am beginning to lean toward the Ware loader, having used the crawler now at the cabin for a few month, I see that usefullness of a loader of a simple blade.

Or course, Ill still buy a blade setup too if nothing else.

Got a fellow out of TX heading to PA and NY soon and says he may be able to help me in getting whatever I buy home to me here in Dallas, TX area.

What have you got? Price?

pulling logs..

That Aux tranny helped!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8C0O-Ui803E&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

OK....

I am wondering about something. I got this dilema.

Have a rolling chassis HG (1945 dated) that has a fantastic frame... The HG I have running (1951) has a frame that was sort of "mucked up" around the rear mounting.

First thought was to just pull the great condition motor from my runner and drop into the 1945 dated rolling chassis.

BUT.. I have already spent lots of mulla on the 1951 with all new rollers, seals, bearings, main springs, etc. its just that the frame , well, isn't perfect like the rest of it is now!

So I got to thinking of pulling the engine on the runner and taking out the frame.. Then replacing the most excellent frame from the rolling chassis into my 1951, then dropping the motor in.

Now. the question.

Is it possible to unbolt the frame, leaving the track assemblies and rear transaxle in place (Blocking as needed of course)

It looks possible.. Looks to me that one would unbolt both sides at the track frame guide supports, from the frame rails, leaving the tie bar in place, keeping both track assembies where they are.

then unbolt the transaxle/transmission from the rear of the frame (blocked so it dont rotate or fall)

Does this sound reasonable? Just wondering about this.

ALSO... would a 1945 dated frame bolt the same to the rear as a 1951 frame?  In other words, are there any differences in the rear mounting to transaxle.

(Forgive my questions. your probably wondering why I just dont go look for myself!  the reason is that the runner is now about 160 miles away at the cabin... the rolling frame isnt actually in my possession to view. I bought this roller for the most excellent tracks.. Its on its way soon.)

Got a chance to purchase what the owner says is a factory setup.

I see from the pictures that it hase round tube "struts" heading back to the rear.

Is this correct?

Got mine from these folks:

http://www.atrebuilders.com/rebuilt-01313a-water-pump.html


matched the casting number on my original pump.

now you would think that a smallish sized dozer blade would be pretty easy to find....not so...
looking for ideas and a source for a small dozer blade. Ideally, 5 feet wide at most, 2 feet tall at most, and NOT too heavy!

My attempt at using a simple drag type 3pt blade on my HG42 is working, but I want a little more "umph" with a more stoutley built blade.

ANyone got one they wanna get rid of? No need for mounts, hoses, pumps ,etc.. I am all set there.  Just looking for blade, a better, stout blade to fit onto my custom made lift mechanism.

Like I said, any simple, light to medium weight blade will do.. must be 5 ft or so..too small wont work, and I am trying to keep the size and weight down... my tracks are 52" wide. Needs to be at least a little wider than that to work right for me.

anyone? I am in the Dallas, TX area. Closest would be great so I can go get it, but if reasonable shipping or other deleivery is possible, Ill consider anywhere.

wc57doggieboy@yahoo.comdachoppa

I have been working on my HG-42 to look more "military" in appearance. a "recreation" of sort so to speak.

I replaced the old tractor type seat for a "delux" version that looks just like the type used on the HG prototype that was built in 1944.
This "delux" seat fits the look better all around. With canvas covering it looks pretty "authentic"

Built myslef a set of stout flat top fenders. Took a long time and a lot of work welding, cutting and grinding, but I think they came out pretty decent..

Added the military battery box I had.  Found a great place for the repop data tag I had custom designed..Put it right where the old style seat spring was.. Still need to make some rear light brackets for the BO lights. And score some front period looking headlights and build a brushguard. and one more rear bracket to mount the pintle hook to.  Still need to locate the ammo boxes for use as storage (chains and such) . And need to paint the chrome one wire alternator. Just dont look right with all that Olive Drab!

This is a FUN project to work on..  almost done..

["1945 Orange HG42 with electric snowblade"]

YOUR profile shows a listing with a "1945 Orange HG42 with electric snowblade"

Do you have ANY pix to share of how the front is mounted? I recently bought a vintage 12V electric hoist , supposedly capable of 1500 lb lift (minimum)and wish to build a blade/frame etc.

Would like to know your thoughts on how yours works..

Anyway, got any pix to share? I am going to build my own frame, like I said and would like to see what this one is all about before commiting to the design I have in mind.

thanks!

Looking at the Service manual for my 51 dated HG-42, the diagram and instructions shown for the location of the fill level and drain locations for both of the final drive locations are pretty vague.

When I rebuilt and cleaned my final drives and put in new seals and all, I never really did look much as I was completly draining and cleaning them out. Now that I want to check the levels, I am just wondering if I am actually opening up the FILLL LEVEL INDICATOR plug hole or the drain hole!

So, looking under the crawler, from the rear, I see a clearance hole thru the track frame, near the back of the drive, to access a slotted threaded plug in the final drive. I have to assume this is the FILL LEVEL INDICATOR  hole, and not the drain plug? its about 3-4 inches UP from the bottom of the drive casting. seems about right for the 1.5 pints of oil to come up to.

If my assumption is correct, and thats the LEVEL INDICATER HOLE, then where does one DRAIN the entire unit? Where is this drain Plugs location? Is it one of the lower casting assembly bolts perhaps?

I just cant see it anywhere.

like I said, I paid no mind when I had them apart as it was completly torn down and cleaned out and I just filled up with the recomended amount of oil, not really thinking much.. Now, as I have been running it, I would like to check the levels from time to time.

I seen a few pics of a hi-back style seat, with NO arm rests, on a HG.

Anyone got one on theirs? Was it optional equipment or a aftermarket add on later?

Does it attach to the standard seat frame springs of completly differnet mount?

I think the standard seat on mine isnt the most comfy I ever sat on so am exploring purchasing one of these hi-back frames if they were stock parts

anyone got one for sale?

looks like a OC3 with the 3 rollers vs the 4 rollers (in fact, owner states its a OC3)

has a 3 cyl GASOLINE engine, so he states

Looking at rear, its awful narrow gauge. BUT, notice the tracks... they are wide, but with an "offset" design on each pad with the holes offset toward the center of the crawler.

Owner just called me out of the blue offering this to me. Non running. I would only interested for the blade and tracks, but tracks may be pretty worn. Aint exactly the blade I wanted, and I sure dont want another crawler carcass around after taking the parts I could use!

well, here it is.. proof of the pudding as they say, that it runs indeed.

After my AUX install, I got around to rigging up a simple rear drag blade, operated with a manual master control lever off of a Farmall cub.

Works OK, I guess, but the angle of the operator to lever positioning is awkward.

Looks like a true, hydrylically operated front push blade is in order for the future!

Chris in NY? Still got one for me bud?

BTW... these videos were taken today, Friday, Feb 04, 2011, in my driveway, in Frisco, TX
Yes.. We here in Texas got a lot of ice and snow over the last week... Been crippled for travel here. Today, woke up to yet anotehr 6 inches of fresh white stuff.

Here are my video's playing with the HG.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5YSNYa0wmY&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTsXol_UsKg

this thing is a lot of fun.. slow, yes, but fun..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQN5mjWbLEQ

anyone got a good source for a person who can make custom/reproduction data tag (plate) p?  Someone who can acid etch a duplicate from a picture of an original plate, or make a custom plate that has a "blending" of information into a plate?


Thanks

well, an update of my progress to you all.

FINALLY COMPLETED THE INSTALL TODAY.

I can say I had a number of issues to contend with, but I finally got around them all. Had some pretty frustrating times, but its now behind me and the crawler is back together.

(BTW.. for anyone who might have read this post originaly, and my issues with the clutch not disegaging... It was a simple matter of leverage, lever arm location and all that. FIXED!!

Anyway, its together as of this afternoon.. I started it back up, and drove it a bit.. VERY little mind you, as my capillary tube to the oil pressure gauge burst! I guess I must have kinked it too much while moving parts around all this time.

arrggh.... one more setback..

Anyway, just the last step in this.. I got the battery relocated, cluch leverage and linkage all nice and tidy, etc, etc.

Will see what I think of the new LOWER gearing soon!

Latest issue..  Put the newly machined plates to the tranny. Slid tranny into place. clearances for and aft look good between plates and bellhousing.. ready for welding together.

BUT...

First thing I notice is that the transmission "tailshaft" and transaxle "input "shaft arent straight, or in line in the vertical.. left to right is  perfectly in line.. BUT...top to bottom. tranny output is a bit higher than the transaxle input.. rear transaxle shaft pointed slightly upward, making a not so "in-line situation...not a lot, but enough to easily notice.

any of you ever see a misalingment of any noticable distance when fitting the tranny?   I can easily "tweak" this as need be, but I want as little sterss on the clutch disk/shaft when its done.

How far off (if any at all) were you all when you did your conversion? And if any at all, what is "too much"?
Will the two U-joints / assembly compensate for this misalingment OK?

I was thinking that perhaps raising the front of the engine a bit might compensate for this out of alignment.. Maybe the front motor mounts are worn where the front has dropped a tad?

Who knows..

Working on my AUX transmission project.

I am having some issues, maybe some one of you who already finished your AUX transmission project have experienced these same issues and can shed some light.

I am following the article as written by Dick Wolcott based on John Demarras original work.

Received in all the parts, clutch disk, from Snyders, T.O. bearing and carrier from Vintage PW, u-joints, transmission front and rear sealed bearings, etc. locally.

So far, I have done the following:

Rebuilt the transmission and installed the new bearings. All looks good here.

I have machined the clutch cover down to the 3" as the article specifies. Removed the original pivot shaft and drilled out to 1/2" diameter and welded in a 1/2" diameter shaft to the original TO bearing "U" shaped clutch release yoke.

Again, so far all per the instructions and all looks exactly like the pics in the article.

I have the plates being made, so I don?t have them yet, but today, I decided to play around with the new clutch linkage and see where it will all line up.

I bolted the machined cast clutch cover with now welded shaft and "U" shaped release bracket onto the motors bell housing.

I tried putting the transmission into place.

Darned if the front bearing retainer/ throw out bearing carrier (the part that the TO bearing slides along) touches the clutch pressure plates actuating fingers! I cant go PAST the fingers. A quick measurement to the maximum depth I could go was about within 2"
between the mating surfaces (I believe I need around the total distance of the two plates, 1/2" and 3/8") I am not in far enough, AND those clutch fingers are not allowing me past this point.

That is my first issue. Diameter of new model "A" bearing carrier is bigger than the original. It also appears as if it will be TOO LONG. I thought I read somewhere that in some installations, one might need to trim back the length of the front bearing retainer/ throw out bearing carrier? Not sure where I read it, but it looks like this may be needed. Any thoughts? I wonder if there were different clutches with different fingers and sizes? hummm.

My second issue... after trying the above, I removed the transmission and put aside...I wanted to see just how the new throw out bearing and carrier would fit/work with my new release "U" lever in place..

Dang. The bottom portion of the ?U? bracket will touch the clutch body well before the clutch will disengage.. What the heck is going on? It the same ?U? bracket, pivoting from the same axis location, and the T.O bearing and carrier appear to be the same length as the original setup.

One last thought: the replacement Ford model ?A? clutch disk was very thick, much thicker than the one I removed (and it was in really good shape, nearly new).. The Ford disk looked like it had two (2) facings, making it about ?? thick.. the original wasn?t that thick at all.Do you think that the fact that the replacement disk being thicker would cause the release fingers to be in further in when installed than on the original disk?

It?s the ONLY thing I can think of that?s different.. ?U? bracket is the  same, TO carrier same size/distance face to bracket engagement, etc.

Can anyone help here? Anyone else see these issues in their project AUX tranny install?

Thanks for any input guys.. Dave

Jeeez.. could they have designed these any harder to get out?

I tried heating, penetrating oil, then a pair of vise grips on the part thats remaining (yes, it partially rusted away... probably why its so darn hard to remove)

ANy ideas short of cutting thru the cap and destroying both it and the cross joint?

Dave

like the ones as seen on, say, a Cat 10 for instance.

wish to add a set similair to this style to my Oliver HG42. (see attached pic)

If I cant find, I suppose I can custom make, but would prefer to find something I can retro-fit to work

decent shape, not perfect, is prefered.

what cha got?

(Posted this on another forum, so please be pateint if you have seen this before)

I am now certain that the military, be it the Army, Air force or whatever branch, purchased and used HG /OC crawlers.

In fact, I have been in contact with one individual who sold the remains of a late 40's dated HG crawler many years ago that had an Air force Data tag on the chassis.

YES....he had an OLIVER...and it was military... it was NOT a clark Airborne...

He had an HG 42 to be exact. He sold it years ago, had the actual tractor in his possesion.

But, now that its gone, he cant find the photos he had of it.

According to him, it wasnt a U.S Army or Corp of Engineers data tag.

His exact words were:

"it is a HG-42 Cletrac serial number 28GA 308, Crismon's book shows a picture of one with full fenders,this one only had the small fenders, there is a large piece of plate attached to the frame that states it was "Developed by USAF FWS Nellis AFB MFG. By Randolph AFB"

so, he gives the serial number (an HG crawler, and NOT a Clark)

28GA 308 serial number puts it in the 1947 date range for HG42 crawlers


I have conversed with at least two other  individuals who have owned in the past military versions of the HG/OC3.
I know of another HG/OC owner who knows of a collector with one as well, but unfortuantly, that collector has not contacted me back to discuss details.

all this is great.. BUT  What I need is HARD evidence. that is an actual tag, or close up photos from someone. details of special equipment, light gaurds, taillights etc. I have seen the Cletrac crawler book by P.A. Letourneau with the single photo of a ww2 dated HG with the military tailights. good start, but I want to see more!

Any help or leads in the form of pictures, of the actual machine in operation, or the tag itself, actual tags, military manuals, etc would be appreciated.

I own a 1950 HG-42.. Looking at the ware loaders, IMP over hood type setups, etc, I realy dont want anything that big on my machine.

I want a simple push blade with either single piston or dual (like in this picture) I want something that gives little or no sight restriction.

anyone with a blade, frame, hydryaulics and controls like this for sale reasonably?