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The other day I was digging a hole with my OC4 diesel with the backhoe attachment and it started to miss like it was running out of fuel.  I quickly shut it down before it stalled but I think I caused a problem.   I put fuel in, it was empty, but now it runs unevenly, speed changes and sounds like it is missing.   I primed it before I started it.   Do I have to bleed some air out of the system?   Before this happened it always ran very smoothly.

Thanks
Ed

I have a broken master link.    I got a replacement from Zimmerman's which included the standard pin.   The master pin I have is still good.   My question is how to get the pin out of the broken section.   I don't have a press for the link pin and would like to just drive the pin out of the link with the track still partially on the machine if possible.   I have a good torch.   If I heat the link up, how easy is it to drive the pin out?

I just put in a rebuilt generator and new regulator and now I have a problem I never had before.   With the key in any position I have 11 volts at the battery, or load terminals with the machine turned off.  The key has three postions besides the starter position (fully turned clockwise.)   There is one CCW from vertical, vertical and CW from vertical and finally one past the CW position that is springloaded and starts the machine.   Is this a factory switch?  I haven't been able to remove the insturment panel, the slotted screws are stripped.  I guess I'll have to drill them out and then use an easyout. The wires are all painted in the engine compartment so I can't see the color codes.  No lights on this machine. Any ideas?   

I got my starter rebuilt because it was only turning over very very slowly.   Now when I first turn the key, the machine turns over very well but within a second or two the turning over turns to a crawl and the machine won't start.  It's a new battery but I also jump started it and had the same problem.    Also tried directly jumping to the starter itself (to eliminate the wiring) and get the same behavior.    I took the starter off to take it back to the shop but just wondering if anyone else had this problem.    Also notice that there seems to be a mechinical clanking when the motor is turning over fast.   Didn't remember this in the spring the last time I started the machine, but it never turned over as fast back then.   Tried a little starting fluid but  this didn't help.   I'm getting black smoke as it turns over so I think it's firing.

Thanks in advance for any help

Ed

I tried starting my machine the other day to get the water out of the bucket and I could barely get it to turn over.   I had started it in the early spring but it has been sitting outside idle since then.   The motor will turn over very slowly but that is it.   I tried jump starting it and even hooked my truck battery directly to the starter and a nearby ground and it did the same thing so I think I've ruled out bad wiring.    Is there a failure mode of these starters that gives this type of symptom.   Luckily the starter is one of the few things on the engine that I think I can remove with the endloader in the down position.

Should I get a local rebuild it or send it to a specialty shop like Zimmerman?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Ed

I've got the 12 Volt system on the diesel.   I checked the two terminals on the generator and don't seem to have any voltage there.   Is this a standard generator that I can get new brushes for from NAPA?   Any other things to look for?   I'm assuming the voltage regulator is also  bad, it looks original. I"ll check it but does anyone know a good replacement for this?  

Thanks in advance.

Ed

Anyone have a recommendation for a good multi-viscosity hydraulic fluid for the OC-46?   While I'm doing my backhoe cylinder replacement I thought it would be a good time to flush the system and replace the fluid.   I've got an end loader on the unit also.   What is the best way to get most of the old fluid out of the system.   I don't want to go nuts to drain every drop.   Is there a strainer or filter for the fluid?

Thanks
Ed

I've got a Ware 400 trencher on my OC-46.  Just blew up my second cylinder (dipper) and after a $1000 replacement bill decided its time to work on the pressure relief.  Anyone know the setting.   I have a manual but the schematic that they say has the settings is missing.  Thanks for any information.

Ed

I've got a few grease fittings on my machine that are so plugged up I can't get grease into them.  This is on both the loader and backhoe.   Anyone have any tricks on cleaning things up.  On a couple I've pulled the pins out, taken the fitting out and run a drill into the rust and dirt but I was looking for a way to do it without removing pins.  The backhoe parts are pretty heavy.

I recently replaced the 4'  long 3/4" and 1" lines that went to the backhoe and now remember how much these things cost.  I was in a hurry so I went to a NAPA dealer and it cost me ~$170.  I see that almost all the hoses on the loader are original and in need of some attention.   I have a manual so I have the lengths and sizes.   Is there any source of standard length and custom length hoses that is good but won't charge an arm and a leg?    Are there some hoses that I can use standard lengths and some that it is critical that I get the length exact?

Thanks for any advice.
Ed

My Oliver OC-46 crawler has a Ware 400 backhoe. Over the weekend while digging up a stump the bucket piston rod bent about 60 degrees. It's at a shop now being repaired. I'm thinking that the pressure relief is not working properly. When I run the hydraulics to the stopping point, I've noticed that the engine begins to stall. On other machines I've run, I've heard the squeal of the hydraulic relief valve opening. Anyone have any information on how to set the relief valve on this machine.
Thanks
Ed

My machine has a backhoe attachment along with the front loader.  It has two control valves, the regular two spool one for the loader and a Cresen Minneapolis single spool valve in front of it.  The only way to get the loader to work is to hold the single spool valve in (push if forward).  Unfortunately the Cresen valve doesn't lock in place so I have to hold it with one hand while I operate the loader with the other.  Needless to say this makes driving difficult.    I don't see any way to make it latch.   Any help would be appreciated.

I've attached some pictures in the photo album in case anyone wants to see what I'm looking at I'll email you the pictures.

Thanks
Ed

I'm having a little trouble getting one of the relined brake bands back on my machine.  I have it wrapped around the drum but can't quite get the paw that is attached to the band to go around the pivot shaft at the top of the differential housing.  Is there any trick I am missing?   I push the brake band as close to the drum as I can but  U-shaped paw just can't squeeze around the shaft.   I got one band installed OK, it's just this one that is holding me up.

Thanks
Ed

In my manual it says to use SAE50 but not extream pressure, multi-purpose or detergent lubricants.  Does this mean I should use non-detergent 50W motor oil?     What came out of it looked a lot heavier than 50W - it smelled like gear oil.

Thanks
Ed

My OC-46 small repair job continues.   I got the track frame off and and am working on repairing the broken studs and bearing caps that hold the track rollers in place.  Parts are on the way from Zimmermans.  I noticed that all the rollers are filled with grease.   I have an oil gun coming with my part order.  Should I just shoot some 90 weight oil in there or use something lighter to clean the grease out and then add the 90 weight.  Any suggestions?

Thanks
Ed

I was out running the machine and noticed that the left track kept locking up.  I had to reverse direction to free it up.   I think I know the cause.  At least two of the idler rollers bearing caps are broken - one is gone and the other is bent.  The studs appeared to have sheared?  I haven't checked the caps on the inside of the track.  Are these something that I can replace without removing the track.   Anyone know where to get parts?  Finally, is this common - what causes it and what can I do to prevent it.

Thanks
Ed

So I went out to play in the yard yesterday and made a disappointing discovery.  I can't use the endloader with the backhoe attached.  The counterwieght had been chained into the loader.  I took of the chain and dumped the weight so I could pick up some big rocks I had just dug up with the hoe and the nose popped up.   It took me a while to get the weight back in.  I had to use the hoe as a third leg to keep the nose down.   Seems like a rediculous design - it's a Ware backhoe.   Any ideas?

Ed

How hard is it to repair the spot turn?   Once I get my backhoe up and running I was going to take it off the tractor so I can get at the axel.  The service manual that goes with the tractor is still down at my aunts in New Jersey.  Is it that complicated or do I need a manual.  From what I understand there are shoes? that I can remove and send to Zimmers to have relined.

Thanks
Ed

Got the lines out.  Only had to cut two.  The other 4 came out pretty easily.   I got the new ones made - Question though after I reinstall them is there any bleeding procedure to follow or will they self bleed.  
Thanks
Ed

I'm starting replace the lines that go out to the boom on my OC-4 backhoe.   I loosened up the two hose clamp brackets but noticed that the hoses are so stiff from age that spinning them to untread the end at the hydraulic valve will be very difficult.   I was thinking of cutting them with a saws-all with a metal blade.   Anyone ever try this - any other ideas/suggestions.   I did powerwash the unit and hoses down so most of the oil and dirt is gone so it's not too unpleasant to play around with.