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Well, It's been quite awhile since I started a new topic on this board. Seems like I've just been a lurker since I finished my OC-46 restore over 7 years ago. Since the restore, I've put a solid 60 hrs on the little crawler. I know, that's only about 8-10 hours a year. When I do use it I am always so thankful for all the info I gleaned from this site. The crawler has been remarkably reliable and runs perfect. I had it out today as a matter of fact and worked a stump out with it.  Hope you enjoy.



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Hi Guys,

Just and observation on my OC-46. The left idler has a button head lube fitting on the outside hub and no fitting on the inside. The right side however has a button head fitting on the outside but curiously also has a Zerk on the inside of that hub.

Also curious is the factory hole for the button heads are tapped either 1/2-20 or 1/4 NPT. but the Zerk hole appears to be 1/8 NPT.
This has me believing the Zerk on the inside hub was added by the P/O.

Was wondering what you guys have on your machines? 1 fitting on the outside or both inside and outside?

I got bit by the vintage chainsaw bug. I was given this one about 20 years ago and I've been tripping over it in my shop since. Thought I'd give it sprucing up.

















HERES THE VIDEO

Found this listed as a 1953 OC-3 on Craigslist. Interesting features are the 4 rollers and the name plaque on the track frame " Chicago Pneumatic"  Also I'm wondering if the grill is a factory guard? It appears to be the same stamping as the early Cletrac pattern. Looks too well made to be a home fabrication. The under carriage looks to be in great shape from this picture. Ad says it's been on the family farm for last 25 years.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/grd/3112479222.html

A couple pieces of sheet metal marked for an HG on Craigslist. What do they belong to?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250905965679?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

This looks like it could be a pretty good deal for someone.
Craigslist Ad

For some reason I'm having difficulty identifying which tractor this particular radiator tank belongs too. It seems unique because the cast logo is relieved in the inside of the characters. I didn't see this one in the photo albums.

Old Crawler

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCeWiAoi ... re=related

When rebuilding the finals on my OC-46 project I referenced the manual on setting up the bearing pre-load for the drive shaft and ring gear bearings. What I discovered was that the process was a little more susceptible to interpretation than I felt comfortable with. The manual suggests using a fish scale on the ring gear to measure it's rotational drag in pounds. This is somewhat acceptable but" ball parkish" to say the least. I found it very difficult to maintain the same angle on the scale hooked to the ring gear tooth as I rotated the gear leading it with the scale making it very very difficult to get a repeatable reading.  As for the drive shaft bearing preload it simply suggest to "feel by hand" 2-4 lbs rotational drag. I really hadn't a clue what 2-4 lbs of resistance felt like when twisting a 1.75 inch shaft???



Since it has been a long time since I last had my wrist calibrated I elected to employ another means of measuring the rotating resistance.
In the past I've set up a few automotive differentials and had to set up cup and cone bearing pre-loads for the pinion shafts. This was always done with a needle or dial type torque wrench measured in inch lbs. of rotating torque. I was positive this was the process I wanted to use on the final drives also. All I needed was a couple of adapters to plug my torque wrench into to rotate the bearings.

The first thing I had to do was convert the fish scale specs to inch lbs of rotating torque.The book calls out for a rotating resistance of between 2- 4 lbs so I shimmed up one of the ring gears until I could get a good reading of about 3 lbs.

Then I fabbed up an adapter for the torque wrench. The adapter consist of a couple stud extensions and a spreader bar that slips onto two opposite studs on the ring gear hub and a 1/4" square hole in the center for the torque wrench.


The stud extensions are a couple of spare studs screwed and loctited  half way into a couple spare nuts. The spreader bar just slips over these.


Now I could measure how many inch lbs of rotating torque is equal to 3 lbs of rotating resistance. It turns out to be about 17.5-18 inch lbs


I also previously recorded  2.6 lbs on the fish scale equaled between 11-12 inch lb.s of torque. I noted that these numbers fall in line with the specs for the pre-load of the automotive differential pinion bearings so I was very comfortable with my numbers.

At this point I was ready to remove the finals housing from the crawler to set up the drive shaft bearings. The adapter for this was simply a piece of 1.75" tubing, 3/16th" wall, giving me an internal dia. of 1.375". This fit perfectly with no slop. I then drilled and tapped the side on one end for two opposing 10-32 set screws (one would have worked just as well) to engage the splines on the shaft and welded a washer and 1/4" socket to the other end to adapt the torque wrench.


I elected to set the pre-load on the dive shaft at the lower 12 inch lb setting which equates to about 2.6 fish scale, calibrated wrist spec. I justified this because just as with the different size automotive differential pinion bearings. The smaller bearings always called out for less pre-load. Just a good feeling I guess.


One last note: The manual instructs to set up the ring gear first, then back the nut off until there is no resistance, then install the drive shaft and set it up with the ring gear still installed and interacting with the pinion gear. I elected to do them totally independent of each other so there was no additional drag from gear interaction to foul my torque wrench readings. Also it was much easier to do the ring gear with the finals installed on the crawler. I suggest that you remove the finals to do the shafts then pull them out of the finals after you get a good pre-load reading, measure and record the shim packs and set them in a safe place, then install the final housings and set up the ring gear, re-installing the shafts after the ring gear is done and set.

Also note: If you change direction of rotation to get a scale reading you'll notice much less resistance for the first 1/8th or so revolution of rotation. This is because the rollers haven't loaded in that direction yet until the space between the rollers, cage and race are taken up. I rotated a full revolution before I started reading the scale on the torque wrench.

I guess this all might seem a little more than is really needed and that "going by feel" is really close enough. I know I'll sleep better knowing I didn't leave them too loose or get them too tight. I do know that the bearings I pulled out of these finals had evidence of too much preload so for all it's worth I hope this might be helpful to some of you.

I have a cracked hub on the ring gear assembly inside the final drive of the OC-4 I'm restoring. It's cracked down the inside of the inner bearing recess. The gear itself is fine. I'm contemplating pressing the gear off the hub and onto another hub I have out of an OC-3.

My question is, has anybody done this before and can tell me a little about the process. I'm not sure how big of a press is needed. I have a 20 ton press but not sure it's enough. Also, I'm just guessing here but I'm thinking that in order to put the gear onto the hub I'll have to heat it to about 350* and slip it onto the hub for a shrink fit

I'm replacing the ring gear bearings in the finals on my OC-4 and have a couple questions. First, when I removed the inner bearing from the ring gear shaft I found a .130 spacer behind the bearing. My diagrams do not show this spacer. Is this supposed to be there? Also I noticed that the shaft had been peened to expand the metal under the bearing to make it fit tighter. I'm wondering what the fit is supposed to be. Is this a press fit or was it supposed to be a slip fit. Does anyone have the proper dimension for this shaft?

I've got the tracks off my OC-4 that I'm restoring and want to prep them for paint. I'm leaning toward sand blasting but wanted to pass this by you guys. What methods have some of you used to prep tracks for painting? Is sand blasting  commonly done on this component? Any problems doing it this way? Any better ways to prep?

What is the torque spec. for the differential carrier bearing retainers? Also for the final drive nuts that bolt the finals up to the transmission? Is there a publication that lists most of the torque specs. for the drive train? I can't seem to find much in my operators manual.  

This is my 1957 Oliver/Cletrac OC-46 crawler/loader. This is how it was when I picked it up one frozen day in Cle Elum, WA. The previous owner had started to do a rebuild on it but only finished going through the undercarriage and had the engine completely rebuilt. There was some painting done but mostly over rust and dirt.



After I got it home I started stripping all the parts off down to the frame and undercarriage.

Before:

After:


Then some cleaning and prep and paint and new hardware:



Installed engine, Hydro pump and tank with rebuilt hydro controls, Lift arm cylinders and lift arm supports.




Lift arm prep and paint:



Phosphate coating process for hardware:


Lift arm, links and bucket cylinders installed:


Rebuilt clutch linkage assembly, Made new pins and bushings:


The dash consumed many hours. Lot of welding/filling up holes and cracks:






My 12V alternator conversion: "Click here for write up"



Made new radiator frame:


Made lower housing cover and new panel to incorporate hour meter and   idiot lights (new addition) I made the legend plates for GEN and OIL



As it is today:



Still have to get into the gearbox and finish some sheet metal before I can move any dirt with it but I'm gett'n close. I'll update the progress pics as I go.

[NOTE:]

NOTE: Since the time of this writing the supplier has run out of this alternator at the special price. These alternators are however available through other sources at close to the discounted price I was originally offered by Quick Start Automotive Electric. They still continue to maintain an extensive inventory of alternator and starters and accessory parts.
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About a month ago I decided it was time to look into a 12 volt alternator system for my OC-46 project. My first thought was to use a one wire Delco 10SI unit, mainly because they're readily available, inexspensive, reliable and some are easy one wire hook-up. I purchased one for a good price on ebay and when it arrived I set about making the nessesary bracketry to fit it up. I wanted to use the OEM pulley off the generator to keep things looking somewhat close to factory. Surprisingly it slipped right onto the Delco unit and bolted up. After spending much time fabricating a nice solid bracket and getting the pullies aligned and a belt selected I test fit the engine side tin. ARRRGG! Even though I was careful to keep it as close to the engine block as possible the alternator stuck out so much I was now going to have to cut clearance on the tin in order to get it all to fit. This didn't sit too well with me and the Delco unit just looked too darn big hanging on the side of the little Hercules. Well, I decided I was going to start over and try to find a smaller alternator for this conversion.

While doing an internet search I found a company in Comstock Park,  Michigan called Quick Start Automotive Electric I gave them a call and told them what I was trying to do and if they could suggest an alternator for my application. they told me they had just purchased about 250 Nippondenso alternators that are brand new take offs from some gen-sets that the manufacturer was replacing with larger ones. They said these things were tiny and were rated at 40 amps. Sounded like just what I was looking for so I ordered one up. At this time these sell for $69.00 and come with a pigtail connector.  This is what the unit looks like.











When I got it the first thing I noticed was, if I was going to use the original generator pulley I was going to have to overcome the issue of a much shorter and smaller diameter shaft. The shaft on the 'Denso unit was not long enough to come out the front of the thick OEM pulley and also was only 14 MM diameter. I thought I might try and make a shoulder nut that would act as the bushing and the nut. I came up with this.



It's a grade 8, 3/4 in. bolt, cut off, turned down, bored and threaded for 14X1.5 mm. The lock washer is 16 mm and was just slightly undersize for the O.D. but was persuaded on with little effort. An 11/16th washer would be proper if I would have had one handy. The pulley was installed backwards (casting number toward alternator) to allow it to turn freely without interfering with the end bell of the alternator. Also note, this nut will have to be installed and removed with an impact gun since there is no practical way to hold the armature from spinning. Just don't over do it with the impact gun when tightening or you'll chance stripping the threads. Two or three wacks with the guns hammer is sufficient.

This picture with the OEM pulley installed shows clearly how small this unit is.

 
 

Next I had to position it on the engine block to measure for a new bottom bracket that needed to be fabricated. As I held it in place and sighted across the pullies I noticed I was holding it so close to the engine block that I just decided to bolt it up temporarily through one of the timing gear cover bolts so I could get a measurement.

Well to my surprize, after I bolted it on and resighted, I couldn't believe my eyes. All three pullies were perfectly lined up. No lower bracket needed !

The only bracket I had to make was the simple top bracket that was bolted to a threaded hole provided on the water pump.



Now the engine tin cleared with room to spare.



This alternator is internally regulated and externally excited so in addition to the output wire to the ammeter it also requires one more additional wire from the ignition switch. It comes with a pigtailed connector that plugs into the back of the alternator. I believe one of the wires can drive a charge light for  charge/no charge indication




If you're interested in inquiring about this alternator from Quick Start they list it as Item # ND-1170-40A. Another note, The belt I ended up using is a Napa part number 25-22386. It is a 11/16th wide belt and has an outside length of 39 3/8th in. With the fan pulley adjusted up tight I still have about 1/2 in. of adjustment left.

This conversion was actually much easier than trying to use the Delco one wire unit. The only small obsticle was wanting to use the OEM pulley and making the adaptor nut but if you have access to a lathe it only took about 30 minutes to make. This thing was almost bolt on.

It appears Nippondenso used this perticular housing for several of their alternators. If you look at the listing for  Kubota You'll see a good list of them at various ratings.  I've found out they were used on Kubota tractors and Yanmar/Isuzu generator sets. Probably other Yanmar/Kubota/Isuzu equipment as well.



Below is the common wiring diagram for this alternator. The three terminals are marked on the right side of the alternator nameplate as " P, IG, L".

"P" (red wire) is a frequency pulse that is used as a feed-back signal for tachs or automatic frequency control on a generator set. This will not be used for this application.

"IG" (green wire) is the field excitation circuit that is normally switched by an ignition switch or other automatic switching device such as an engine oil pressure switch. This turns the alternator on with a +12vdc signal. This wire could be jumped to the alternator output terminal at the alternator for one wire operation but you should be aware that with the engine not running there will be about 300 ma of parasitic draw on the battery. Enough to drain it over the course of a few days.

"L" (blue wire) This is the charge/no charge indicator light if you choose to use it. You will need to add a small incandescent dash lamp between this wire and a +12vdc source such as the ignition switch. With the key turned on and alternator not turning it will be lighted. As the engine is started and the alternator has good output it will go out. Any illumination of the light while the engine is running indicates no or low alternator output.



Connector pin-out on right side of nameplate



The connector pigtail colors will be upside-down from the wiring diagram and nameplate symbol when installed. If you pull the connector off you can identify the symbol orientation by looking at the outline of the connector socket. It matches the nameplate symbol.

I would encourage any of you who want to copy/save any of this information to your own PC to do so. It's all linked from an image sharing website so I can't garrentee it'll always be availible when you want it.

Does anyone know the fan belt dimentions for a Herc. IXB3? Or the Napa part number. This is for my OC-46 alternator conversion. I want to use the original pulley and belt but don't have an old belt to go by.

Found this on ebay.....

Not sure what model these parts belong to but the price might be right for somebody who lives down south.
 Early Cletrac Parts

OK, I've finally got enough progress on my OC-46 restoration to post some pictures. I bought this crawler from someone who started to rebuild it but seemed to be more than he wanted to deal with. He did already go through the undercarriage and had the engine freshly rebuilt. Not much else was taken apart and he started to paint it. A lot of the painting was right on top of poorly preped surfaces so after I got it home I disassembled it down to the frame, cleaned and painted, replaced/made new shafts, bushings, bearings, seals and just about every nut/bolt/washer on it. It's going together pretty well but I'm taking my time. The picture of it on the trailer is when I picked it up. I'll be sure to take more progress pics and add them to the album. The link below should take you to them. Let me know if it doesn't work

OC-46 Project