ok new rebuild..... pistons rings main and rod bearings
piston wall clearance with a .003 feeler ribbon is at 8 pounds to pull it out
ring clearance end gap is at .015-.017
now i've been having trouble getting this to fire after rebuild nothing but puffs of smoke out the exhaust.... fiddeled with the points. timeing exc.. and nothing seemed to be working
just did a compression test on it..... all cylinders at or around 60 pounds.
now i'm wondering since there is 3 different types of go130 engines... go130, go130h, and go130x8 is it possable i was sent the wrong pistons?
and is there anything i can do to fix this other than another complet tear down?
and if they are the wrong pistons,,,,,, will i be able to return them or exchange them... if they sent the wrong ones, having already installed them? at almost a hundred bucks each,, and then again theres a new head gasket, also a hundred bucks.. this whole thing is makeing me sick....
Now I don't know much about that specific engine, but if the pistons were wrong I think that would be obvious. At the top of the stroke the piston should be just below the top of the block. If it is still a half inche below the top then you have a problem!! If they were to come out of the block you could not turn the engine over. 60 psi is low for compression, but it should still start and run. Is that reading with spark plugs out or in?
Does it pull lots of air at the carb when you turn it over?? Maybe you have a blockage of somekind in the intake and aren't get what you should into the engine.
The pistons will be the same. The major difference in a Go and a GO H series is the size of the rod and main bearings.
You said 'compression around 105psi ' in your last thread. Now which is correct-60 or 105?
Even without bedding in you should be better than 60! I would not be surprised if your valve timing is off, if valves are actually seating properly.
Try a compressed air test at TDC and you may find the problem.
Regards, RAB
ok yes, first time the compression was tested it was high around 105,,,, but with a home made compression tester..... that we later found out was junk,,,,,,, went to napa and bought an actuall one thats how i got the new readings.....
anyhow,,,, as for the pistons comming to the top of they cyl,, no they stop about 3/4 inch from the top,,but the old ones did too.....
the method for testing was to pull the plugs from all cyl.. thread in the tester and turn over the engine to reach max compression... still reading at 60.......
but it does have a good draw at the carb,so there is an air flow running into the engine....
going to try going over the valves again to see if the timeing is correct again..... still baffles me.....
One way to check the valve timing is to conect an air line with a regulator to the spart pulg hole. Set it at 5 or 10 lbs and slowly turn the engine over by hand and see if you get air out the intake and exhaust at the proper times as well as feeling the pressure on the compression and power strokes. You can get a good idea of when the valves are opening and closing. I have come accross gears with wrong timing marks!! that make timing a lot of fun!!
I forgot about that being either a gas or diesel engine, so that piston stopping about 3/4 inch from the top should be about right for the gas version.
Do you know what valve overlap is? What method are you using to position the engine properly to set the valves? What kind of rings did you use cast or chrome faced? How did you clean the cylinders after honing? I don't remember if you have a crank driven hydraulic pump or not but can you turn the engine over with a socket and ratchet or break-over bar?
I had a similar problem with my farmall H after repairs ââ,¬â€œ I had mistakenly timed the mag 180 degrees off and got nothing but puffs of smoke ââ,¬â€œ just a thought