Hi all, I got my new toy home 52 OC-2
It had a rebuilt motor then sat outside for 3 years and locked up, I have tried Liquid Wrench, Marvel Mystery oil, took the head off tried to tap the tops of the pistons, still stuck, any one have a good trick for this before I just try to drive the pistons out from below?
Also I pulled the bell housing and it was over half full of water HOW? and is there any clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing number from napa?
Thanks Ron
You could try hot oil, I've not tried it but have seen it been done, can't remember what oil they used but imagine it needs to be reasonably thin. But please be very careful as I don't want to be responsible for any accidents as I think the oil needs to be very hot, but it may be worth a try. I know how frustrating it is my engine had had a rebuild and done very little work and then water had enterd via the exhast and done quite a lot of damage. Good luck, but please be carefull if you try the hot oil won't you.
thanks for the tip, I just came in I have welded a piece of pipe to the clutch plate so I could use a long bar and I got it to move some now will leve it to soke some and check it in a day or so
Ron, KROIL works great for your problem. Its a thin oil that creeps. Ive used it on car engines. Icant tell you where to find it. Its an idustrial application. Maybe check at an industrial supply. Good Luck OZZY
Ron, Try running hot water into the cooling jacket to expanded the cylinder walls.
A Gentlemen in the tracter I belong to has tried this with success.
This may help the oil get down into the piston rings.
I have heard also of using alcohol as a lubricant to seep into the piston rings to help free them up.
Otherwise just about any kind of oil could work, and time.
I had an engine that came stuck when I got the tractor and haveing no success freeing it up I removed the engine.
After removeing the oil pan I found that two of the pistons were broken from all the pounding of the previous owner.
The remaining pistons were the stuck ones, the oil would not go down past the rings.
Well since this is a long term project with no finish date at present I let the engine block sit on end on the basement floor on wood blocks next to the furnace.
After six mounths or so sitting I had happened to try the pistons for movement while I was making room for some more pressing project and they slid right out!
Time and a warm basement did the trick.
My father uses the "Kroil" and likes it, they have a web site I beleive and you must by from them directly.
Kerosine or Hoppes gun oil may work too.
Good luck.
Regards,
George Gibby:)
Progress report on toy, I have all the pistons out with no damage, cylinders honed, crank looks real good on the rods I hope that the mains are as good, all the valves are stuck, I have ordered some "KROIL" but its not here yet,
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Water in bell housing
I had no response on the bell housing being full of water, any one have this problem? is there a drain hole in the bottom? do I need to put one in?
I salvaged a bell housing from a BF avery modal A it is the same but the linkage rod is long and I am not sure on the fly wheel it has a lot of heavy rust on the ring gear, I was able to free up the starter drive but its pitted real bad.
How did you free them in the end?
I removed the head and pan, bell housing and clutch (it was sliping to bad to turn the motor) lots of oils, marvel mystery oil, penetrating oils, auto trans. fluid, one time when I was cleaning the oil out from the day before i put a paper towel in the two cylinders that were down, lit them on fire and burned the oil out that warmed the block nice, the last thing that I put in was rubbing alcohol with wintergreen, I had the belhousing off but still no good way to turn the motor so I welded a piece of pipe to the pressure plate so i could put a Long pry bar and turn the motor then I would have a buddy pull one way and I taped the pistons with a round piece of wood (small log) then turn the other way and repeat then let it soak and try again also sprayed WD 40 from the bottom side after I was able to move it I honed the cylinders that were down then drove the pistons out. I think if this had not been rebuilt just before it was parked it would of not been so tough. when I get the "KROIL" I will try it on the valves and rings and will report
Hello I have the OC-3 assembled and started today, runs good, drives and steers good, loader is kind of iffy thinking of a dozer blade, it has mounting outbord of the tracks, when (and if ) I get it panted I will poat a pic
Ron