Title: Worn Track Cleats ???
Post by: Orangeman on December 06, 2007, 10:01:33 PM
Post by: Orangeman on December 06, 2007, 10:01:33 PM
Hi Guys: Sorry for all these post lately, I am looking over the HG a little more carefully now that it is home I see a slight taper on the cleats of the track pads from inside to out. This situation appears on both tracks when you look at the tracks from the rear of the machine.
The cleat profile is higher close to the frame and is worn down to a lower point on the outside edge of both tracks. The wear total is about 3/8 across the profile of the grouser or cleat.
What should I be looking at or inspecting that would lead to this type of wear on the grousers. The tracks are 10" in width.
The machine is equipped with early idlers circa and is a 1942 machine. :?:
The cleat profile is higher close to the frame and is worn down to a lower point on the outside edge of both tracks. The wear total is about 3/8 across the profile of the grouser or cleat.
What should I be looking at or inspecting that would lead to this type of wear on the grousers. The tracks are 10" in width.
The machine is equipped with early idlers circa and is a 1942 machine. :?:
Title: grousers
Post by: walter hudson on December 07, 2007, 03:57:35 AM
Post by: walter hudson on December 07, 2007, 03:57:35 AM
Park the machine on level ground stand back and look to see if the track frames are sitting at an angle .Are both tracks worn the same ?The only mechanical reason I can think of to cause this would be the track frames not running true . They could be worn from the way it was used previously .
Title:
Post by: Orangeman on December 07, 2007, 11:00:56 AM
Post by: Orangeman on December 07, 2007, 11:00:56 AM
Hello Walter: I will check on the frame rails today after I get home from work if we aren't blasted with more snow.
There is still a good amount of reveal left on the cleat/grouser and the chain and sprocket are in very nice shape. It was stated to me by the widow I purchased it from that the machine was used for belt power to saw lumber. There was a little saw dust hunkered in around the transmission shift tower.
I just want to maintain this machine as well as I can, we don't make machinery in this country like this HG was made anymore!!
There is still a good amount of reveal left on the cleat/grouser and the chain and sprocket are in very nice shape. It was stated to me by the widow I purchased it from that the machine was used for belt power to saw lumber. There was a little saw dust hunkered in around the transmission shift tower.
I just want to maintain this machine as well as I can, we don't make machinery in this country like this HG was made anymore!!
Title:
Post by: mtncrawler on December 17, 2007, 04:54:33 AM
Post by: mtncrawler on December 17, 2007, 04:54:33 AM
Mine had a bent front axle which might have contributed to a similar condition. Only one track was worn funny and on that side the front wheel had an obvious lean to it. 'Course it also had a broken main spring and only one of the four bolts holding the track rail to the rear support bracket wasn't broken. I think the tractor hit something hard straight on with that track at some point in time. A snapped off tooth on the bull gear and the pinion gear bearing cage warped all out of shape kinda reinforce that thought.
Title: Worn Track Cleats
Post by: Orangeman on December 17, 2007, 12:15:29 PM
Post by: Orangeman on December 17, 2007, 12:15:29 PM
Hello Walter and mtncrawler:
Sure good to hear from you guys.. I think I found part of the problem, now that my eyes are wide open. It appears as if the adjusting fork and screw that allows more tension to be placed on the idler is out of adjustment. They are certainly rusted in place. So a new screw will need to be machined or purchased to allow adjustment. Looks like the dimension of the screw is 1" or 1 1/8 National Fine Thread??? Is that correct???
Second, I observed that on this machine (it is equipped with the early idlers), and noticed that the inside of the vertical rib on the idler is very thin as compared to the outer. My educated guess, is that the machine was operated out of adjustment which led to the wear condition.
The wear is not that bad, I am just very fussy about the maintenance and operation and want this crawler to be adjusted for proper use and maintenance.
Guess, I will start there. Hope you guys are having a Great Holiday Season!! Take Care...
Orangeman
Sure good to hear from you guys.. I think I found part of the problem, now that my eyes are wide open. It appears as if the adjusting fork and screw that allows more tension to be placed on the idler is out of adjustment. They are certainly rusted in place. So a new screw will need to be machined or purchased to allow adjustment. Looks like the dimension of the screw is 1" or 1 1/8 National Fine Thread??? Is that correct???
Second, I observed that on this machine (it is equipped with the early idlers), and noticed that the inside of the vertical rib on the idler is very thin as compared to the outer. My educated guess, is that the machine was operated out of adjustment which led to the wear condition.
The wear is not that bad, I am just very fussy about the maintenance and operation and want this crawler to be adjusted for proper use and maintenance.
Guess, I will start there. Hope you guys are having a Great Holiday Season!! Take Care...
Orangeman
Title: Adj screw
Post by: walter hudson on December 20, 2007, 03:32:43 AM
Post by: walter hudson on December 20, 2007, 03:32:43 AM
They are 1" and some are coarse and some are fine thread .
Title: Reply to Walter and Babbit Question re: IXK Block
Post by: Orangeman on December 20, 2007, 01:41:58 PM
Post by: Orangeman on December 20, 2007, 01:41:58 PM
Hello Walter: Thanks for the reply. Sure appreciate that!!
Another question for you the Hercules engines guys. On the IXK engine, my White manual notes that the main bearings are babbited. I am curious to know if you guys elect to rebabbit the mains or if you have the block line bored and eliminate the babbited mains and have the engine worked to accept inserted main bearings.
I am a little new to the babbit bearing issue and would sure like to hear what others have done to refresh their IXK...many thanks in advance.
Another question for you the Hercules engines guys. On the IXK engine, my White manual notes that the main bearings are babbited. I am curious to know if you guys elect to rebabbit the mains or if you have the block line bored and eliminate the babbited mains and have the engine worked to accept inserted main bearings.
I am a little new to the babbit bearing issue and would sure like to hear what others have done to refresh their IXK...many thanks in advance.
Title: Main Bearings
Post by: John Schwiebert on December 21, 2007, 11:30:44 AM
Post by: John Schwiebert on December 21, 2007, 11:30:44 AM
First of all just try to find of F-M or Cleviter main bearings. You get the insert bearings rebabitted as well. More effecinent, money wise.
Title:
Post by: cletracattack on December 21, 2007, 02:51:26 PM
Post by: cletracattack on December 21, 2007, 02:51:26 PM
Hello Orangeman, Had my crank turned .020 & main bearings rebabbited. Price: $200.00 for the bearing work. Jim.
Title: Adjuster
Post by: walter hudson on December 23, 2007, 04:41:41 AM
Post by: walter hudson on December 23, 2007, 04:41:41 AM
I told you wrong on the adjuster . They are 1 1/8" instead of 1" .I have rebuilt a couple of IXK motors and they had insert Main bearings .I believe that only the IXA had babbited mains.
Title:
Post by: Blake Malkamaki on December 23, 2007, 03:37:26 PM
Post by: Blake Malkamaki on December 23, 2007, 03:37:26 PM
Walter, I think the IXK in my General has babbit bearings.
Blake
Blake
Title: Bearings.
Post by: John Schwiebert on December 24, 2007, 09:14:42 AM
Post by: John Schwiebert on December 24, 2007, 09:14:42 AM
A lot of IXK engine and maybe some of the IXB engines even do not have inserts. It is starting to look like maybe for a while Hercules had those engines available either way. Merry Christmas.