Title: What model of Hercules engine for a FDE Cletrac ?
Post by: Ludovic on January 07, 2008, 05:51:32 PM
Post by: Ludovic on January 07, 2008, 05:51:32 PM
Hello,
I'm a french Cletrac collector and I have recently buy a FDE Cletrac model with Heill dozer (perhaps the last one in France).
But the engine is frozen on the external of the block and perhaps on the inside too. So, I would like to know what is the model of Hercules engine on the FDE (the consructor plate is missing) ? Do you know on what type of other machine was it used (to find a complete engine more easily) ?
PS : excuse me for my poor english : I hope that my request is comprehensible.
I'm a french Cletrac collector and I have recently buy a FDE Cletrac model with Heill dozer (perhaps the last one in France).
But the engine is frozen on the external of the block and perhaps on the inside too. So, I would like to know what is the model of Hercules engine on the FDE (the consructor plate is missing) ? Do you know on what type of other machine was it used (to find a complete engine more easily) ?
PS : excuse me for my poor english : I hope that my request is comprehensible.
Title:
Post by: Robert Barbour on January 08, 2008, 03:43:39 AM
Post by: Robert Barbour on January 08, 2008, 03:43:39 AM
The FDE used a Hercules DFXE engine. It has a 5 5/8 bore and 6 inch stroke, 895 cu inche. All I know of that used this engine is the Oliver OC 18 and the M20 US Military truck of WWII.
Title:
Post by: Ludovic on January 08, 2008, 08:23:52 PM
Post by: Ludovic on January 08, 2008, 08:23:52 PM
Thank you for your answer.
Do you know if I can fund this engine on public works machine ?
Do you know if I can fund this engine on public works machine ?
Title:
Post by: Robert Barbour on January 09, 2008, 04:47:34 AM
Post by: Robert Barbour on January 09, 2008, 04:47:34 AM
I don't think this will be any easy engine to find, especially outside the US. I would strip your engine down and see how bad it is. It does not take alot to make them stick. It may only need a good cleaning, a valve grind and a set of rings. That will be a lot cheaper than a new engine. If you are going to play with antique equipment you have to learn to do things your self unless you have a truck load of money!!
Title:
Post by: Ludovic on January 09, 2008, 07:45:12 AM
Post by: Ludovic on January 09, 2008, 07:45:12 AM
Yes, you're right. I still have rebuilt engines, it is not a problem for me.
The problem I have is that one of the cylinder head is cracked by frost and I think it will perhaps be easier to find another cylinder head on a complete engine in France (if I can find it here) than to import parts from US (because of weight for the transport).
Let me know if my raisonment is bad ?
The problem I have is that one of the cylinder head is cracked by frost and I think it will perhaps be easier to find another cylinder head on a complete engine in France (if I can find it here) than to import parts from US (because of weight for the transport).
Let me know if my raisonment is bad ?
Title:
Post by: Robert Barbour on January 10, 2008, 03:42:38 AM
Post by: Robert Barbour on January 10, 2008, 03:42:38 AM
I have no idea of where to look in France!! Mayby you can find a Military surplus dealer, one that has been around for a long time. France did buy equipment from the US during WWII and shortly there after and you may find an engine from an M20 truck. If you want to look in the US try M & M surplus sales , they are listed on this site, they have some Military engine parts.
Title:
Post by: Ludovic on January 10, 2008, 07:43:55 AM
Post by: Ludovic on January 10, 2008, 07:43:55 AM
In France, there are many military machinery collectors associations. I will contact them. I hope find my happiness.
Thank you Robert for the M & M surplus contact : I could need it.
Thank you Robert for the M & M surplus contact : I could need it.
Title: Head.
Post by: John Schwiebert on January 10, 2008, 02:32:15 PM
Post by: John Schwiebert on January 10, 2008, 02:32:15 PM
First of all I am going to steer you in a different direction. Before you jump in with both feet get the old head pressure tested/ If they (heads) freeze they tend to crack on the top side and this can usually be repaired by the cold crack repair method. Also a salvage yard over by Akron Ohio wanted to sell me a head a couple of years ago.
Title:
Post by: Bob on January 11, 2008, 02:46:37 AM
Post by: Bob on January 11, 2008, 02:46:37 AM
I agree with John, check it out a little deeper before you jump in it all the way.
Bob
P.S. I"ve been looking for an FD so do a good job on it for me!
Bob
P.S. I"ve been looking for an FD so do a good job on it for me!
Title:
Post by: Ludovic on January 11, 2008, 05:28:51 PM
Post by: Ludovic on January 11, 2008, 05:28:51 PM
Yes, it is an other idea.
I just finished to take down the cylinder heads to see the cylinders because the engine don't turn by hand : one has received water (by exhaust I suppose) and is rusted. But I think it is possible to repare it.
For the cylinder head, I will take picture to display how it is.
@ bob : OK, I will pay attention of this crawler
I just finished to take down the cylinder heads to see the cylinders because the engine don't turn by hand : one has received water (by exhaust I suppose) and is rusted. But I think it is possible to repare it.
For the cylinder head, I will take picture to display how it is.
@ bob : OK, I will pay attention of this crawler
Title:
Post by: Robert Barbour on January 12, 2008, 02:42:51 AM
Post by: Robert Barbour on January 12, 2008, 02:42:51 AM
It is always best to check out what you have before you start buying parts. If one head froze, I would check the other and the block too. A good place to check in Akron Ohio is Sam Winer Motors, Inc. I have got Hercules parts from them. Ask for Rich Radonich, He is their Hercules expert. Their number is 330 628 4881. He told me they are only 25 miles from the original Hercules factory.
Title:
Post by: Bob on January 12, 2008, 05:27:08 AM
Post by: Bob on January 12, 2008, 05:27:08 AM
I am working on a DD right now that is froze up. I pulled the heads only what I didn't want to find... a cracked sleeve. After checking closer I think I will only need to replace 2 sleeves. All the other cylinders are just a little rusty and a hone job should clean them up.
Title:
Post by: Ludovic on January 25, 2008, 08:40:33 PM
Post by: Ludovic on January 25, 2008, 08:40:33 PM
Some pictures of the cylinder head and engine block :
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/culasseFDE1bis.JPG)
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/blocFDEbis.JPG)
Other pictures soon
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/culasseFDE1bis.JPG)
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/blocFDEbis.JPG)
Other pictures soon
Title:
Post by: Bob on January 25, 2008, 11:39:32 PM
Post by: Bob on January 25, 2008, 11:39:32 PM
I would not be afraid to grind those cracks out and braise, weld, and or fill with epoxy. Those are just in the water jacket and shouldn't hurt anything. Just as long as there are no cracks on the inside of the engine.
Bob
Bob
Title: Cracked head
Post by: John Schwiebert on January 26, 2008, 03:59:37 AM
Post by: John Schwiebert on January 26, 2008, 03:59:37 AM
You are in luck. The worst thing to do is weld them. The best thing to do is to "pin them" You can do this yourself. How can I send you some literature on the process?
Title: Re: Cracked head
Post by: Ludovic on January 26, 2008, 08:11:19 PM
Post by: Ludovic on January 26, 2008, 08:11:19 PM
Other pictures :
This one is on the same cylinder head you can see in my last post :
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/culasseFDE2.JPG)
One of the cylinder is rusted by water who came by exhaust pipe. But I don't mind it's serious. The other are in good condition.
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/FDE_moteur2.JPG)
And for pleasure :
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/FDE_vue.JPG)
Thank you.
Someone told me that the stainless steel weld is good to weld cast iron. Is-it true ? Could-it be enough strong for using this engine without problem ?
This one is on the same cylinder head you can see in my last post :
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/culasseFDE2.JPG)
One of the cylinder is rusted by water who came by exhaust pipe. But I don't mind it's serious. The other are in good condition.
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/FDE_moteur2.JPG)
And for pleasure :
(//http://ludovic.joiris.free.fr/images/FDE_vue.JPG)
Quote from: "John Schwiebert"You are in luck. The worst thing to do is weld them. The best thing to do is to "pin them" You can do this yourself. How can I send you some literature on the process?You can send me by email if it is scanned : ludovic.joiris@free.fr.
Thank you.
Someone told me that the stainless steel weld is good to weld cast iron. Is-it true ? Could-it be enough strong for using this engine without problem ?
Title: FDE Heads.
Post by: John Schwiebert on January 26, 2008, 09:22:50 PM
Post by: John Schwiebert on January 26, 2008, 09:22:50 PM
The trouble with that is you will develop small pin holes in the casting when welding. A man told me that once who was in the business every day. I was asked to check a head for a Continental that had been welded that way. I found over a dozen pin holes. Then you need to be carefull when drilling and taping the stainless as there are many grades of stainless. No it is not scaned. I will need to check if they have an el;ectronic version.
Title:
Post by: Bob on January 28, 2008, 01:57:03 AM
Post by: Bob on January 28, 2008, 01:57:03 AM
I guess my welder is just good. I have heard about those stitch things. I wasn't sure on how well they would seal water. There are also special heli-coils that the same company sells (I think) you can fix tapped holes with them really good. A friend used them to fix an old power engine the cylinder broke off. After he was done you would never know.
Bob
Bob