Cletrac.org

Hi folks,  from N Idaho area.  I always "get myself"  into this kind of thing with both feet mired in the mud

Bought a junk Cletrac,  looking for suggestions on engine (swap)  and help with model ID  About it's only saving grace was the low (still too high) price  and it has a pretty substantial appearing (Holt?)  blade

Now this thing is ugly. REAL  ugly.  I think the cab will get yarded off.   It has a horrid Pintoed 1600?  cc with an auto sitting there, all froze up,  and some horrid concoction with an auto trans  (spaced away from the bell flange!!)

What might be some good combo's for engine / trans?

I"m not really enthused about an auto trans, but have some of you?

Is there room in these little guys for say,  a Maverick/ Falcon engine plus 3
speed?

Can you put larger stuff like Chevy inline 6, Ford 300, etc?

Do you need an aux trans with the larger engines?

Ya I know.  Lots of answers and no info

(http://i43.tinypic.com/sqi934.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/23j0uht.jpg)

Ford Ranger/ Pinto 2000-2300 plus stick?

Old Datsun/ Nissan/ etc/ 4 wanger and trans?

Modify / shorten the trans?

I haven't even got it home yet, so haven't really measured up stuff.   How about stuff like "up to"  EFI  V6's, etc?  Obviously front wheel drive junk is out, I guess?

(Once again, assuming  I'd need an aux trans for the newer,  "higher RPM"  engines


I wouldn't be surprised if you guys just kick my a$$ right off of here  before things even get rolling!!

YOU'RE OUTTA HERE !!    

Well, I guess my first thought would be what condition the undercarriage is in? If it needs a lot of attention you might be better off salvaging what parts are usable and find another one to restore.

I for one would try to find a correct engine, They're still around and would save a lot of messing with trying to make things fit and work together. That's assuming that the frame wasn't molested too bad with the transplant of whats in there now. The Automotive engines make torque in the wrong rpm range to be very useful.

Thanks for the thoughts,  but "correct engine"  just won't happen, unless something extraordinary happens.    I'm not looking to have some sort of resto,  just a budget, running small cat.   Hence modern (well semi modern) power.    

Sources for me in this area  (N Idaho, Spkane)  are limited for older  "industrial"  or low rpm engines,  so I'm sure some sort of automotive with aux. trans is in the works.  

Well, first I have to get this mess home.  snow.  ice. cold.  winds

Judging from the gas tank and what bits of the original are showing I would guess that to be a newer OC-3. The front wheels and main spring look like the OC-3. You can see the bottom rollers too. The second picture shows the frame has been lengthened to hold the engine/transmission. The rear seat has been added with the rool cage.

If the drive train and undercarriage are useable, just put a small engine in it. A local person used to buy OC-3's then drop datsun four cylinders in. He used manual transmissions and hooked them straight up to the original drivetrain. I thought they were quite horrid, but they worked alright. It was like having an OC with the Slo-Lo transmission. The good thing about the Cletrac/Oliver system was that the bell housing did not mate to the transmission. So swaps were easy.

Good luck

Thanks for the thoughts.   I haven't looked this over yet,  but that is the sort of thing I"m thinking.  One thing I HOPE to do is make things at least presentable.    Maybe shorten the transmission/ tailshaft up

For example,  my old  Landcruiser,  which I'll never "do"  again,  uses  Chrysler SB V8, Mopar passenger (A833)  4 speed and an "Advanced Adapters"  that mates it to JEEP  transfer case.    

For example,  I could use that box  with the adapter, which would give me a fairly short OAL on the transmission.    

I do have a small Atlas lathe,  and might be able to shorten a box on my own.  

I do NOT understand why I do this stuff

Go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyhYv4hGgo0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyhYv4hGgo0) and see what this guy did with a Cletrac 20K. You might find this exciting and want to do the same thing with what you have.

Blake

That's quite a piece of gear!

One consideration with a different powerplant - the original transmission, differential and final drive gears were running on less than 25 hp.

You might run into problems putting more hp (and strain) on 60 year old components.....

Good luck with the reconstruction!

Quote from: "Blake"Go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyhYv4hGgo0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyhYv4hGgo0) and see what this guy did with a Cletrac 20K. You might find this exciting and want to do the same thing with what you have.

Blake

I actually found that film on youtube before I joined this forum.    VERY  good!!!    I don't think 'we" are looking at anything quite that radical,  but if I had more money------I was/ are a hotrodder at heart..

Used to........

69 383 Roadrunner

64 Dodge Polara, 426, later 440

70 440 sixpack Roadrunner

later 340 swapped in

62 Landcruiser,  360/  340/ 318

Well, barring accident, death, or sudden high taxes, tomorrow is the day!!!!   The seller even offered to drag it home for me a distance of about 50 miles one way.    Maybe he's feeling a little guilty

Anyhow,  I'm  now--for no good reason--getting excited about working on some greasy, old, piece.

I wonder if we should call it the "Pintasauras"

i like your enthusiasm! the sky is the limit.  maybe building a wheel stander would top the cleatasaurus. anyway, have you thought of a buick v-6 225? they have a heavy flywheel available for some low rpm use. maybe an sm420 trans. have a little fun.

Quote from: jeff fulleri like your enthusiasm! the sky is the limit.  maybe building a wheel stander would top the cleatasaurus. anyway, have you thought of a buick v-6 225? they have a heavy flywheel available for some low rpm use. maybe an sm420 trans. have a little fun. <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" title="Smile" />

Yes I have  but it's difficult to find them reasonablely  here.   Also,  I think I just about need something out of a pu/ 4x4  to reduce length.     Another alternative is to "luck"  into an automotive transmission that could be easlily shortened.

I spent ALL DAY   (I'm beat)    getting it to run some.   float was crushed in carb  (ice?)  and I fiunally found another carb in the shop.  Yarded out the fuel tank and jerry rigged a Tecumseh !! tank on the cab   for temp    The engine starts and runs but has one dead hole--don't know yet why

I DID  finally get it off the trailer at dark,  and ran up/ down the alley 60-80 ft or so.

Tomrorrow.......

BOY  what a two days!!!!!    Arrived onsite at about 10AM Fri  thinking  "we'd bump it loose"  and drag up on the trailer.    Frozen down.   Had to remove trailer fenders.  Had to block up tracks to get C frame OVER tires.   WHAT a day.  got home 4:30PM  completely beat

The only "sheet metal."   Don't know if the grill is origiinal, looks similar to later OC-3/ OC4?

(http://i41.tinypic.com/i35id0.jpg)

The awfulness of it all.  Yes the frame has been lengthened, shortened, chopped up and butchared.

(http://s5.tinypic.com/168ak5j.jpg)

I have no idea if the Holt blade is morphed or fairly stock.  It shows some signs of repair/ welding/ etc

(http://i43.tinypic.com/332xdzc.jpg)

The holt blade

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2ah5v9l.jpg)

Pretty bad.   The seller evidently had little or nothing to do with this mess

(http://i39.tinypic.com/168ak5j.jpg)

Got busy today,  dumped off the blade and C frames,  removed the hydraulics,  and cab

I only had to remove the pump mount bolts,  2 bolts for the valve / resoivor,  and of course the cylinder clevis bolts    I only had to remove the return hose at one end from the tank to untangle from the Pintoed  mess,   and peeled the whole thing off a little at a time as one big connected unit.  Didn't   lose a drop of fluid


Tomorrow,  even  though today was great,  supposed to rain/ snow.     I'd like to get this mess yarded out of here, otherwise,  and just start over.


I'm amazed I"ve made so much "progress"  (regress?)  already

(http://i39.tinypic.com/fu0tna.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/2vkxe7n.jpg)

As far as sheet metal goes. That looks to be the original hood off of an OC-3, or maybe HG. The round hole is where the aaircleaner should come through. The back of the hood has a flange and bolt holes to bolet down and hold the gas tank in place.

The grill looks home made.

Kevin

What a hack job, I am amazed that it worked at one time!!  Being a purist I would also try to find an original equipment motor.What does the frame look like where it is attached to the final drive? Is it the old style( butts up to the final drive) or the new style ( sandwiched in between the final drive casting and the differential).
Does the frame have any cracks in it?

Quote from: Gazer61What a hack job, I am amazed that it worked at one time!!  Being a purist I would also try to find an original equipment motor.What does the frame look like where it is attached to the final drive? Is it the old style( butts up to the final drive) or the new style ( sandwiched in between the final drive casting and the differential).
Does the frame have any cracks in it?

I'm afraid I'm beyond original.   This IS going to need some work,  between the hacked up frame and the cracks in the ??support tubes??  ahead of the axles

Yesterday  I (note the tracks)  herded 'er in, pulled off the  dozer gear,  turned 'er around,  and dumped that Pintoed out.  ACTUALLY    I got that thing running fairly well   needs a "richer" carb, etc,  and the bolts into the torque converter were loose  so there's probably little wrong with it.

I also went down and measured the length of the Toyota 20? 22? R  out of a 4x4.  It's favorable.  The engine pulley,  to the end of the 4x4 adapter  (mates to transfer)  would barely fit inside the frame, not counting room for the rear coupler.   This takes into account the 6" long  adapter between the gearbox and transfer case, which I HOPE  could be eliminated.

Here's a couple of shots of the frame

I'D STILL LIKE TO ID THE MODEL??

"final disposition"

(http://i43.tinypic.com/j9x05c.jpg)


Frameshots, maybe help to ID this thing

(http://i39.tinypic.com/n68dau.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/ixf676.jpg)

The worst of the brazed  suport tube casting.  The other side also shows cracks, has not been fixed.   Are those tubes steel  versus iron?   I'm thinking of boxing them or tubing OVER them, and rework  the frame  end with steel

(http://i43.tinypic.com/6f831s.jpg)

The external knee action springs, plus the solid front idlers with the rims outside the track chains place it as an OC-3.

I can't tell from the pictures the frame configuration at the rear axles.

The frame on the early ones (our 1952's) stopped in front of the final drive housings. Some were strengthened with u-bolts clamped around the final drive housings. Later ones had the frame running to the back of the final drives, sandwiched between the differential and final drive housings.

There are other posts here - probably John Schweibert (sp?) -  with dates of the changes.

(//%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/102_0014-1.jpg)[/img]
this is a picture of the new style frame that started in mid 1952, the bolt pattern you see is the one for the final drive casting.
From your pictures I think that I can see this frame on yours

Quote from: Gazer61(http://[img]http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/102_0014-1.jpg)[/img]
this is a picture of the new style frame that started in mid 1952, the bolt pattern you see is the one for the final drive casting.
From your pictures I think that I can see this frame on yours

I believe you are correct.    I can take more pics, if you can point to something specific  to look at that will help.    I now have it down to the bare chassis, and the mud scraped out of the blade mounting gear.

I'm STILL  contemplating what to do for an engine, but I did drag home the 20R  with 4 speed.   It has possibilities.  I may investigate getting the camshaft reground to lower the power band some.  Bear in mind that I'm looking at an aux. transmission,  so that may not be a huge issue.    I REALLY  think what I'd like to find is an  "Iron Duke"  which was used in some Jeeps as well as GM.   I actually found one for 300,  but I'd like to chop that down in price some.

[(//%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/102_0015-2.jpg)
this is a view of the old style frame. Note the U shaped clamp holding the frame tight to the final drive casting.
[/img](//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/102_0016-2.jpg)
another angle of the same frame.
If yours does not look like this then you probably have a late 52 or newer OC-3

Yep.   My frame is sandwiched  into the final drive casting, so I guess it's the "later."


I've just about decided on what to do.   I'm going ahead with the Toyota 20R + transmission (4x4)  which means I can  modify behind the box proper where the box -to-transfer adapter is, I think I need only to turn the shaft for a seal surface,  and I think I can shorten the adapter and make a simple "clamped"  plate to hold the seal.  There'll be no real strain mechanically on the adapter housing.     There's a short spline female coupler that "went"  betwen the box and transfer,  I think I can have a couple tig welded to it,  and go right to the existing Oliver spline.    I found a cam regrinder who says he can regrind a cam for the Toyota (if necessary)  to lower the  torque curve and make peak torque down around 2K RPM.    

I realize you purists are wretching, but this is a budget deal,  and the frame is already so chopped up that it would take  a LOT of parts to make it complete, or else part this one out.      It is my belief that I can make a really useful little tractor,  have a modern engine that's easy to get parts for,  and not a tremendous amount of money into it.      

I "rigged"  the Toyota up (breakerless distro)  with a GM HEI module and got fire out of the engine!!!  from starting fluid.  "Sounds"  like all 4 to me.

OK, made some progress tonight.  First,  here's a shot showing the frame is evidently the later version, definately "sandwiched"  back between the trans housing and the final drive/ axle housings

(http://i42.tinypic.com/qogm1g.jpg)

I got started modifying the transfer case adapter.  I simply marked the thing approx 3" high  with a caliper at the webbing,  then sawed through two webs at once with my bandsaw.    Then I chucked it in the little Atlas/ Craftsman 12"  and faced the thing.    I'm going to either try to aluminum braze a flat piece to it,  or simply make a flat steel plate that will sandwich it all together with  long tie bolts.   The plate will have to be turned out to accept an oil seal.   The coupler spline  (double female)  I'm simply going to "silicone"  to the shaft,  and polish the OD  to ride the seal.

For the coupler,  haven't  settled yet.  I may have a coupler half  tig welded to that spline piece.   I have a "want" out for a "broken"  transfer case  to gain a stub input splined shaft, or I may just rob the shaft out of the transfer case I have--don't have but a hundred bucks into the entire engine/ box/ transfer package--and cut and use that shaft.    

Brings the question WHAT TO USE??  for a coupler

Here's a shot of the first cut with the adapter:

(http://i41.tinypic.com/2zzm2pt.jpg)

and after facing it in the lathe.   Once again,  a plate will either be clamped to this face to hold the rear seal,  or brazed/ welded to the adapter


(http://i39.tinypic.com/2ufg235.jpg)

Yet some more progress  on the adaptation:   Got the adapter cleaned up  still need to wire brush it really good before sending to the welder. He indicated about 80 bucks to tig it.  I thought about trying to aluminum braze it,  but that thought was quickly put out of my mind with a  half hour of uh,  "melting aluminum."

First pic below shows the general layout of the cut adapter.  I managed to chuck both pieces in the little Atlas 12" lathe and face them  square.   The jig will center the whole thing based on the transmission.  I turned some flat washers to be a snug fit around the drive sleeve off the transmission,  and a snug fit in the oil seal bore on the adapter plate. I did find!!!  an oil seal to fit the adapter sleeve and the unmolested bore  of the adapter, so that was easy



(http://i40.tinypic.com/ic3g9e.jpg)

Second pic  shows the adapter plate sitting on the jig,  washers in place   The transmission shaft will thus locate the whole mess concentric with the oil seal bore

(http://i41.tinypic.com/2igyliq.jpg)


Next shows the lower adapter plate on the jig,  with the front half on top, ready for the transmission

(http://i41.tinypic.com/2ed8uj4.jpg)

Last pic gives an idea of how it will fit when done.  The drive sleave  sticks out the rear some amount,  and will have the flex coupler directly driving the intput shaft of the Oliver transmission.   I plan on using a big sprocket coupler,  so I'll have a sprocket tig welded to this drive sleeve.  Then it's just a matter of getting the thing aligned and mounted in the chassis.   I will have to clip the bellhousing some to get it down into the frame.   The frame has already been chopped up  and I dont really want to do much more chopping

(http://i43.tinypic.com/30uabzb.jpg)

Well yet a little more progress.   Here's a pic of what used to be the original Oliver U joint yoke.   Bandsawed off the ends, then chucked it in the little Atlas lathe, and with a little chipping and groaning,  faced it flat.   The arbor  is a turned down piece of 3/4"  US  water pipe.   Stuck a screw through one of the holes in the yoke to dog it in place.   The other piece is the spline coupler that fits into the back of the Toyota 4 speed.   I'll have to find a suitable pair of sprockets to use as a coupler.    THEN  we can get serious about setting the thing in there.    I'll have to trim some off the bell--the frame is VERY  narrow.  I may have to trim some of the frame yet some more--something I'm not keen on doing.  Doing so, however,  will be in a place where it's heavily gusseted.

It also appears that the clutch release fork may hid the frame.   Remains to be seen, I may have to trim it and live with it shorter,  or may be able to heat and bend it a tad.   I don't think it'll be much.   This is going to be a LONG summer

Believe it or not,  I'm going to "throw"  the greasy, leaky mess in there as is.   I don't want to spend a lot of money overhauling, cleaning and painting this engine  only to find that it's a faiure.     I'll (hopefully)  get it in place   and running,  and verify that there are no serious issues,  then yank it back out and clean it and overhaul/ repair any problems.   I DO KNOW  it needs a water pump,  but I bought a second engine  cheeeeeep   for spares


(http://i39.tinypic.com/hu14zd.jpg)

Someone asked,  so here's a little.     I've had a terrible time with this.   I cut off the horrid extension on the front of the frame,  finally discovering that the frame was bent, cracked, welded and re--welded.   I hadn't noticed this because there was a battery box bolted over all this mess o' cracks,  with grease and oil over the top of THAT

(To establish frame center,  I used a combination of clamping an angle iron to the trans input shaft with a laser on the end,  later a piece of conduit with a "pointer"  welded in.  Worked pretty good.  This established not only the tweak in the frame,  but where the front of the engine crank should go)

Also decided to weld in some patches where the frame had been cut--and I had to do some notching of my own.  The poor condition of the frame is the main reason I didn't try to restore this thing.


Here's a pic of the chain coupling, the Toyta 4 speed and the engine sitting in on a wood block.   I've since gotten 3 of 4 block to frame brackets made,  and have yet to build a rear mount for the trans.  I want this thing SOLID.

(http://i39.tinypic.com/73135i.jpg)

(http://i39.tinypic.com/huo8zq.jpg)

that looks great!  not very many oc3 fans around is there?

KAPOU

I started a new discussion for KP Farmer

http://cletrac.org/newbb/viewtopic.php?t=2367 (http://cletrac.org/newbb/viewtopic.php?t=2367)

Well I've made some more progess:

Got the engine finally bolted down

Got it fired

Started the clutch linkage

Found some Massey 30 "front clip"--remains to be seen  (I don't have it)  if it will  work for sheet metal

I intentionally did  little to this engine,  not knowing if it'd run good.   I had fired it previously with no intake or exhaust,  simply squirting fuel into the ports.    I haywired a fuel tank,  and am using a GM HEI  module with the Toy breakerless distro.  

Got the engine fired  and haywired the radiator enough to warm it up.  Good news is that it sounds good.   Later changed the oil/ filter.     Doesn't seem to have much blowby.     Had to change the front oil seal

Here's a front view.    BAD  news is that the lower hose--depending on final radiator,  will be a beeoch.      I'm waiting now to find a "front clip"  of tin I can use off something.   Tractor junkyards around here are few and far apart

(http://i43.tinypic.com/14ahlk7.jpg)

Exhaust side.  You can see that the alternator  hangs "clear out."    The fan  is offset quite a ways to this side  (I may go electric)   and therefore is part of the lower hose problem.    I MAY  have to find/ have a radiator with the lower hose on opposite side,  go down OUTSIDE  of frame and under to connection.    Slightlty  wider "stock"  rad  will  alleviate this IF it will fit the sheet metal

(http://i41.tinypic.com/dvhtnr.jpg)

Carb/ intake side.   I didn't have to do a bloody thing with the carb,  it runs just fine.   Still looking for a good buy on a governor,  another lenghty problem,  I 'spose.    Everything you see is "haywired"  just to test the running of the engine.   I've actually moved it around the yard!!!!   by simply  "kicking"  the transmission in/out of gear.   The Toy trans remains in 1st or 2nd.     I got carried away trimming the bell to fit down in the frame--for some reason  I thought it had to go down further

(http://i39.tinypic.com/ibkq5t.jpg)

(http://i41.tinypic.com/so03fr.jpg)

Well yet some more progress.   I acquired the dash, tank, hood, and radiator support for the much larger Massey Harris 30 wheel tractor---got a free cat, too--the kind that eats

I'll shorten the hood,  have to cut the side(s)  to clear the carb,   and will either have to make a grill or find a Massey 30 nose/ grill

Here's the tank and dash,  the front mounts for the tank are already done.  I have to make the single (bolt)  rear mount.    Next immediate project is to build the clutch linkage.   I have to clean the rust out of the tank and treat it with the "POR-15"   chemicals.   I'll have to shorten the gearshift, it hits the tank.

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2rm4b43.jpg)

A view to show how it will "sit"  The pipe fittings take the lower hose from the pump around and under the frame.  The fan/ alternator simply don't allow any room for a pipe or hose to pass inside the frame, nor does the width of the engine block.   Radiator is out of the original sale,  I spent 75.00 getting the outlets changed, cleaned and checked.  It's VERY  heavy and thick.   You can get some idea of how the offset fan comes very close to the frame  The mess of ignition is temporary to allow moving the rig

(http://i39.tinypic.com/m6n48.jpg)

Once again, showing how little room there is.  The fan only misses the inside corner of the frame by 3/8-1/2"   The muffler is propped up to show about how I plan for it.   I plan to elbow out of the manifold,  bracket the muffler along the frame,  with just a simple turn down  at the front.   I was going to use  the old one, much too long.  I actually planned on cutting it in half and sectioning it.  Guess I'm getting lazy

(http://i44.tinypic.com/r296k2.jpg)

Well, I've managed to eak out yet a little more progress

The pivot for the new clutch pedal.  I didn't get one, remember?  This thing had an auto transmission.   This is one last mount for the rear of the transmission, doubles as the clutch pivot.  I discovered that US 1/2 pipe, with one pass using a 5/8 drill,  is a good fit for a 5/8 bolt,  so I sawed a piece of 3/4"  pipe and forced it over the 1/2 for additional strength  The clutch pedal will be welded to that assembly

(http://i43.tinypic.com/256wq34.jpg)

The clutch linkage   Starting at the bottom,  the clevis rod operates the clutch fork on the right side of the chassis.   That hooks to the short side of the bellcrank on the left, which sits vertically in the extreme rear of the corner of the chassis and transmission case.  The long piece goes UNDER   the chain coupler between the  two transmissions,  and is hooked to the new clutch pedal (at top)  through a short clevis rod,  not shown.

(http://i39.tinypic.com/5lqexe.jpg)

The clutch pedal in the chassis.  After the tank is installed above,  I may be able to trim off some of it, and will weld a lip on the outer end

(http://i39.tinypic.com/fd93lc.jpg)

The new muffler  I was thinking of actually shortening the original old glasspack,  but decided it was too much work  Pipe is a scrap from a muffler shop  YOU ARE CORRECT!! IT IS RUNNING!!



(http://i41.tinypic.com/64ovgy.jpg)

I even had to make one footrest.  Have no idea why someone removed the original, except the battery was down there--a very poor place, and no place for your foot!!     I ended up using the outer lip for a mount point for the hydraulic tank

(http://i41.tinypic.com/w14rpu.jpg)

The hydraulic tank and valve,  again, mounted to the footrest,  made a clamp around the axle  This seems to have some sort of rattel--ly  valve?  filter? in the bottom.  I'm thinking of cutting a new hole for a new drain.   Not much confidence in what's in the bottom of that tank   The plan is to run a piece of channel under the fuel tank and run a pair of pipes out over the opposite track for a little protection for the piping/ hoses on the left side of the crawler

(http://i42.tinypic.com/iqfpt5.jpg)

The guard  for the transmission coupler  I have no plasma cutter, this is 1/8 plate.  I had to cut an arc on the upright plate, laborously using my bandsaw, to clear the coupler.   Good thing I'm not trying to make a profit on this thing!!

(http://i40.tinypic.com/nxn6zm.jpg)

And a couple of last pics    It now starts and runs,  sounds good, has a radiator and clutch, and moves and shifts under it's own power.  I ran it up/ down the alley the other day,  and it at least rolls along.  No throttle (governor) control yet

The major stuff I have yet to do:

Mount the hydraulic pump,  clean/ flush the system, and probably weld a new drain in the tank.  Buy new hoses, and hope the cylinders are OK

Overhaul and mount the governor/ throttle linkage.

Clean (acid) and POR15 the fuel tank and build the rear mount point.

Mount and shorten the hood,   and find or build a grill.

After all THAT   I can concentrate on wiring, battery box,  and clean up the (temporary) seat mount

(http://i39.tinypic.com/30hllhe.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/6504s6.jpg)

Nice progress. Gotta name for this thing yet?

Quote from: "hotratz"Nice progress. Gotta name for this thing yet?

Thanks,  ha!!!!


Started out between  "Cleota"  or "Toyotrac"   but the Massey Harris tinware seems to have thrown a wrench in the works.    

(I may have to build a grill.  Finding a Massey 30 grill--a good one--is proving to be a "hunt")

I like Cleota (Cleo for short)

Personally, I think the Massey style has a lot to be desired. Just not up to par with a Cletrac. You might be able to do better yourself. This is just my opinion.

Yu never know,  I may actually live long enough to get this thing "completed"  yet,  if not financially devastated.   I spend nearly as much on hoses and hydraulic fluid yesterday as I paid for the whole tractor

Here's a couple of shots with the hydraulics on.   I haven't finished the pump mount yet, it's "hanging by a thread."    I first wanted to determine if the pump was maybe in good shape and large enough.   The tank/ valve had been haggled onto the awful ROP cage,  and I managed to mount it neatly onto the end of the new footrest, plus a clamp arraingement  over the rear axle.   Ran two 1/2 pipes under the fuel tank bracket.

The fuel tank/ dash/ hood are just jerried on there to see how everything fits,  and where I might put the battery.   I"m thinking down next to the starter.

(http://i44.tinypic.com/28gqakh.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/xf6idz.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/mmgdo7.jpg)

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Gonna have to chop about 9-10"  off that long hood!!   Too bad I haven't found a Massey grill yet.  Just one more thing to build

(http://i42.tinypic.com/1zxsi36.jpg)

Plenty of room in there for your leg!!  What there ISN'T  room for is the shift lever which hits the "new"  dash.    Too bad those levers rotate,  I could dogleg it.   I don't guess I have much choice but to whack it off.

(http://i43.tinypic.com/242akh2.jpg)

Yet some more progress, and a complete change of mind since last night.  The blade, with these cylinders,  didn't lift very high.   Last night I'd resigned myself to another couple hundred dollars for longer cylinders,  but today  I got to moving it up /down  and taking some measurements.   Turns out the 10"  cylinder stroke is MORE than enough,  it's just not in the right place,  and after measurements,  turned out that moving one eye some 3"  was all it took to completely change "the landscape,"  pun intended

The eye just hot from the welder

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2w53yhg.jpg)

(http://i41.tinypic.com/2uzfr5j.jpg)


The blade "all the way up",  but it still has a ways to go.  Someone welded some stops on the frame, so it's up against them.  I assume this was to prevent hitting the awful awful frame extension/ pump mount that I removed.  There is STILL  over an inch of cylinder stroke at this point.  Tomorrow,  I'll torch off those stops, or at least cut them down,  and see what we have

I'm sure elated at this.    I'm getting tired at this point of spending money

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2ighspi.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2w6rn2b.jpg)

Well,  due to some hot wx of which I'm nearly allergic, and some health problems,  and just plain "other stuff"   the little Oliver sits dejected.     I did recently get a VERY  good start on throttle control and a governor.    I found a governor off a D2/D4 Cat Pony motor.   Turns out the weights are VERY  light,  and I had to add to them for more torque from the governor shaft.  Here's some pics,  and it finally works,  no throttle control yet,  just a haywired spring.

Please don't mind the ugly rad hose, it's temporary.  I welded a plate to the homemade fuel block off plate for a mount,  re--did the control arm which barely clears UNDER the rad hose.  You can see the control rod rides alongside the valve cover to the unseen bellcrank in rear,  and the other rod going to the carb


(http://i28.tinypic.com/110gj9h.jpg)

Here, you can see part of the bellcrank,  the rod controlling the carb throttle, and the haywired spring.   The bellcrank is simply a 1/4"   bolt welded to a mounting ear under a carb bolt.  The bellcrank pivot is nothing more than a 5/16  "connector nut"  with arms welded on.   The throw of the governor arm is very limited, and the carb arm is fairly short.  At first,  I had the spring on the "regular"  end of the throttle shaft, but it caused enough shaft bind that the thing stuck "hi" or "lo"  in RPM

(http://i32.tinypic.com/10z6yz9.jpg)

A better shot of the bellcrank.  The horizontal rod in the pic goes forward to the governor.  The spring will simply  be connected to a throttle control.  I'm thinking of a "choke"  type wire  incased in rubber fuel hose and drenched in engine oil


(http://i32.tinypic.com/33w2hi8.jpg)

Another shot of the governor belted up


(http://i26.tinypic.com/1267l9t.jpg)


Finished up the day installing a simple hydraulic filter at the outlet of the hydraulic tank.   Would've done that earlier,  but the "place"  was out of filter mounts.

I like this build- shows some great craftsmanship while not letting an old rig go to the scrap pile.

And a tiny yet more "win"  for the project.    I decided to buy a nice Massey grill,  the cost of which was considerable,  and here we are with  the hood and grill  at least hung on there.    I have yet to patch the unused holes in the hood,  and trim up what I've cut off and finish the edges,  but you get the idea.    The way things are going around here,  it'll probably  "go through the winter"  this way

(http://i25.tinypic.com/211ktu8.jpg)

Hey, I'm liking the looks of this. When you get some finishing touches done and some paint it should look excellent.

Thanks Steve.  The way things are going around here,  I don't know if I'll LIVE  long enough to get the thing painted.  


STILL have to finish the choke/ throttle/ wiring,   and now the control valve is leaking down.   I'll try tearing it down and cleaning,  replacing the O rings.  Hope I don't have to buy a new valve.

No need for show quality paint. Just hit it with a wire brush and rattle can it. It will look amazing.

UPDATE:    Although the little machine is certainly not finished,  I at least made some good progress.

I finally got around to finishing the radiator top mounts  (old tires:

(http://i53.tinypic.com/1jb8f7.jpg)

I made a massive decision and dumped the Toyota carb,  a complicated emmissions mess that had acquired some water.   This one is an old Ford Falcon/ etc  170-250 small six,  Holley one barrel.  The home-built adapter places the new 1bbl on the inboard of the two manifold barrels,  thus getting the much smaller carb  under the hoodline.   I still--of course--must build an air filter,  choke and throttle controls.   The key to finally getting this little carb  to work well in this application was simply remove the spring and needle under the power jet,  thus putting it "in circuit"  at all times:

(http://i56.tinypic.com/2liudg2.jpg)

I finally got the wiring under control.   All wired up except for the headlights, not yet mounted.   Alternator is Toyota,  regulator is 62?--69 Chrysler products,  the little rectangular box  with two wires,  hidden in the bottom of the dash panel.    "New"  grips on the steering is soft bike handlebar grips.  As you can see by the water temp,  it's been running.   Battery runs at near perfect 13.7V when charging.  Toggle on the left is for dash/ headlights,  key / start switch barely visible behind steering lever

(http://i54.tinypic.com/244xlwj.jpg)

Some of the plans before winter are an air filter,  and to plug one or two holes in the Massey hood which are not now needed,  and in fact,  pour water on the carb if not covered.   Also not shown here,  one lift cylinder was bypassing,  so I bought new seals for both cylinders  for less than twenty bucks  U.S.

Hi 440roadrunner. Good to see you still making progress  :D  Thanks for the update . Ian .

I downloaded a bunch of pictures from the old forum, but I don't know which ones are yours 440roadrunner. Can you describe them to me a little bit?
Thanks.

Blake, it's the darnest thing.   All pictures are hosted from  "tinypic"  so tonight I found most of them--saved in my computer,  and decided to repost them all.   BUT I DIDN'T  HAVE TO.   All I had to do was hit the "modify post"  button,  AND THERE WAS THE CODE  for the link to the picture.   When I resaved the post,  there they were!!

Yeah, That's exactly what I found out with my pics. What a relief!

Quote from: 440roadrunner on December 29, 2010, 06:34:07 AM
Blake, it's the darnest thing.   All pictures are hosted from  "tinypic"  so tonight I found most of them--saved in my computer,  and decided to repost them all.   BUT I DIDN'T  HAVE TO.   All I had to do was hit the "modify post"  button,  AND THERE WAS THE CODE  for the link to the picture.   When I resaved the post,  there they were!!

You must not have uploaded your pictures to the site afterall. They were hosted somewhere else.

That is good it worked out that way. I fixed a few of those links for others and I had to highlight the url address and click on the picture button to get them to show up in the post.

Blake

Little girl away from home:

Here's my  Unca Bill  in my home town.   Hauled   the thing up there to plow out from the street to Mom's barn,  so I can store a car body back there 'til spring.    the crawler  C frame won't fit up over the trailer fenders,  I scored some nice 8' long 4x4 timbers,  and laid down in the wheel  channels of the trailer.   'S why the blade is blocked up.  Yep.   The block IS chained down!!

Towed it with my old 86 Ranger,  2.9 V6.  Other than a little lack of power,  it towed OK. 

(http://i52.tinypic.com/14d1p9j.jpg)

One more.    Unloaded two "bodies"  out at my Mom and Dad's estate until I can get them sold/ disposed of in spring.   Quite a ways from the road to the barn, so I unhooked the trailer on the road,  and used the crawler to tow the trailer back to the barn.

(http://i56.tinypic.com/20adv8j.jpg)

Well we've had 'er pretty easy  so far this winter.  Finally  got  snow  which  "stuck"  a little while ago,  and I finally  got to use  the ol gal  a little to plow the alley

I see that  my first post on this project was  Jan /09  when I bought it.   The battery that was in it  finally  died a little earlier this fall.  After sitting all summer,  the little Toyota 20R  fired right up.   I'm running an old Ford Falcon carb,  and it worked better with the governor with the accellerator pump hooked up,  has a manual choke.   I just turned on the key,  the electric pump filled the carb,  pumped the throttle two strokes,  and pulled out the choke.   She only  cranked about 3 seconds  and fired!!

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You must have got dumped on by the same system that hit my place first of last week.  About 16 inches in two days. I swear I'm moving to a warmer dryer climate.  >:(

I'm not really complaining.   Last year we got a huge snow  BEFORE  Thanksgiving,  and met or broke records for snowfall in the area.   

This year  we got a little snow before Thanksgiving,  which melted off.  It was pretty much  dry, other than a little rain  until just before this storm.  It's been  above freezing many days,  and heck,  we're close to February.   Even if it snowed  A LOT  between now and "the end"  at least we didn't have to put up  with  "winter"  all winter.

If the owner DID have anything to do with it, I doubt he'd admit to it  ;)
Yes, it was a late HG or more likely an OC3. Good luck with the 'mutt' project.

I didnt get to plow but 30 feet of snowbank on my machine this year. It didnt run till last sunday.

It was having magneto problems, so I bought another one for it- which worked worse - LOL

I got a spare motor witha  good mag. Ended up getting it running long enough to sell it ! :o  Looks like I'm outta the oliver biz for awhile.  I might buy another one that needs a clutch, a OC6 , Or something more real like a caterpillar.

Quote from: Crazy Matt on February 11, 2012, 07:33:17 AM
Or something more real like a caterpillar.

???

Haha  I need something that does a lil better pushing dirt. Most olivers you find here are a HG/OC. You do find the bigger ones, but they are scrap or a million dollars it seems.   Theres a ton of cat d2's running around yet,


I did email  guy on craigslist on a OC4 last nite tho. Manual angle blade, new rollers - tracks are about 50% tho

Matt, a Cat of the same generation as that Cletrac is going to be heavy, slow, and less responsive. Size for size the Cletrac will run circles around it.

 Mat , if you don't need to move the machine about ,  and you want to push a bit of dirt around . I would forget about a D2 ,and go for a D4 6 or 7 U . If you go Oliver /Cletrac, i would not go any smaller than a BD .

Well guys  it's,  really,  mixed  emotions.    The    Cleota / Toyotrac  went down the road today.   Due to my  estate property not getting sold,  and my arthritis  getting worse,  it's  probable  that  I'll never  afford,  or be physically able  to  get a place  out of town.    So  put the little gal up on  Craigslist.    Guy  from Billings  drove clear over,  gave me 1250.    That  doesn't cover what's  "in it,"  but then  how DO you price  something like this?

(http://i46.tinypic.com/ra52qg.jpg)

Sad to hear that RR. That guy got a good deal, I'd say. Best wishes, Chris

That's too bad. It was fun following that build.

Well,   LOL,  you never know  what the future holds.    I'm  getting  slower, lamer, and more arthritic.    I'm  still  "hammering away"  at the  Dart,  but  even that is painful  at times.      Only  reason  I sold  the  crawler  is  that  I really don't have a place for it.    Ya never know,   I might  find    that winning lottery ticket,  LOL    (I don't buy them,  I found out that  statistically,  the chances  of FINDING  the winning ticket are as good as  BUYING one)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/15n7g39.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/xbzott.jpg)


And............I  couldn't do much without the little Farmall 100.......................

(http://i55.tinypic.com/24xm4k7.jpg)

UPDATE

Well,   my  old   Cleota  /  Toyotrac  is  getting   "flipped."    This must be  some  REAL  expensive paint,  LOL.     I wish the guy luck.  Based on the  small no.  of phone calls I got  when I sold it,    3800  might be  a little  "over" priced.

http://spokane.craigslist.org/grd/3850576636.html

OLIVER CLETRAC DOZER/Trade? - $3800 (Missoula Mt)

OC3 68 gage wide track dozer. This unit has a 20 R Toyota engine, which means you can still gets parts. Other parts available on Face Book @ oliver crawleres. Nice for doing the small jobs or plowing snow.. Runs good... Thanks Would consider trading for a complete snow plow setup for F 150......


(http://images.craigslist.org/3M13J33N35I65K55H6d65415f0cd964071035.jpg)

(http://images.craigslist.org/3Ee3Ma3H15Nc5Ee5J4d6509a3a5c5b7fb1265.jpg)