My brother and I bought a Oliver crawler for a project and would like to order a service manual but I'm not sure of the year or model. I tried to download pics but it was too difficult.
The seller wasn't sure either, he thought 1950 HG.
It a 4 cylinders gas engine with no water pump. 42" track center.
Green over yellow paint. The original color must have been yellow ??
The engine tag (right side of engine) reads:
IXK3 3-1/8 X 4
2429346 008 006
I read in another post that pre 1949 engines had a bore and stroke of 4x4 and from 1949 to 1951 the bore and stroke was 3-1/4 x 4. Why dose this engine tag read 3-1/8x4 ??
The casting letters on the block, behind the mangeto read:
S837D
3 8 49
We searched and scraped the entire block, these are the only numbers we could find. Could use some help, thanks
First pic is the engine tag, the second is the crawler in question
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I have heard that machines came out of the factory approximately 6 months after the block was cast. Yours was cast 3rd August 1949, making it a late 1949 or early 50. Shortly after that, HGs and then OC3s, had IXB engines.
Thanks for the Info !!!
Any recommendations on who to buy a service manual from. Every web site I checked sells manuals. I've bought the "down-load" type in the past and was disappointed.
Greetings,
You appear to have a very close serial number to my crawler. I have a 1949 HG-68, Serial # 44GA642, Engine Serial # 2429362. My Grandfather purchased it on 19 Sept 1950 in North East Pennsylvania. I have the Instruction Manual (Seventh Edition, March 1948) that came with the crawler. I purchased the HG Parts Book this past fall from Landis Zimmerman Oliver-Cletrac (717) 738-2573.
I'm currently rebuilding the under carriage and have had great luck with part availability and service from Zimmerman's. I've placed parts orders on Friday and have received them by Tuesday the following week.
Where did you purchase your crawler?
Quote from: "marksa"Thanks for the Info !!!
Any recommendations on who to buy a service manual from. Every web site I checked sells manuals. I've bought the "down-load" type in the past and was disappointed.
Start up a relationship with Zimmermans. You can't go wrong there. For parts and repairs I couldn't handle - they have always been there for me. They have the manuals too.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help.
I was going in circles doing the research myself and thanks for the tip on Zimmerman.
The engine tag still seems incorrect, unless the engine was changed during the life of the crawler.
The bore and stroke may be a mood point at this time ; I have enough information to order manuals and start the project.
I was asked where I purchased the crawler: I don't have much history on the machine. The crawler was purchased in rural northern Minnesota.
Its primary use in more recent years (according to the seller) was dragging fire wood from the back forty and plowing snow, It was still a running and working crawler.
Sorry that's 8th March NOT 3rd August. betraying my UK origins there! For sure then that makes your crawler a '49.
In an article in the Sept/October 2006 of Hart Parr Oliver Collector Magazine, written by Chris Losey, he stated:
The first HG's used a Hercules model IXA-3 engine with a 3 inch bore and a 4 inch stroke.
Displacement increased in 1940 at serial number 5GA000 to 122 cubic inches through use of the Hercules IXK-3 engine. Almost identical to its predecessor, the IXK-3 used a 3-1/8 inch bore and a 4 inch stroke.
I believe that I've read that in 1950 the HG received another engine upgrade. The new engine was the Hercules IXB3 with a 3-1/4" bore and a 4" stroke.
did you check the service bulletings that I have. It is the correct engine. The IXK was unique to the HG crawlers and afew Avery tractors. There never really was a service manual. Each machine when it was shipped had a parts book and an operators manual which also covers all the service work. This was mainly for export tractors as well as tractors sold in remote U. S. Locations.
Thanks again, I have a 1949 HG
I ordered manuals and talked with Zimmerman's yesterday. They do seem to be the right place if you own a Cletrac.
One more thing before I quit bothering you guys. Last fall I had to install a very large gas filter to keep the carb clean. The gas tank is starting to rust and scale.
I looked at many different fuel tank lining and cleaning systems, some environmentally safe (new green products) and some with skulls and cross bones.
Can anyone recommend a product or a system they had success with.
Send me an e-mail we can discuss it in more detail
Mark, Zimmerman's sells a quart of tank sealer for around $30. I just finished using it on one of my crawlers and have been very satisfied. There was enough left over to also coat my hydraulic resevoir with it as well.
It is first best to power wash the tank to get rid of any loose debris and rust, let it dry, then pour the entire contents of the quart sealer into the tank (plugging the lower drain port). You rotate the solution around for a few minutes, coating all surfaces, the pour the remaining contents back into the can for future use. Next, you rotate the tank every 1/2 hour or so all day long making sure that all sides and top get coated (this is so that the remaining solution does not get to thick on the bottom and not dry properly). The solution looks like milk and traps all debris and surface rust into it, leaving a white, milky coating inside thae tank. My gas is nice and clear after using this stuff. It's kind of like epoxy coating your internal tank with a "glue" that will not break down with the gasoline that will be in contact with it. It stinks and definitely is not environmentally safe! Once dry, there is no harm though.
http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-S ... tinfo/TSG/ (http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/TSG/)
I have used this successfully on my Oliver tractors...Chris
OK, I'm a new guy here but I have been restoring cars trucks and motorcycles for a really long time.
The process I use to clean a gas/fuel tanks depends on how bad the rust is.
Is it just surface rust or does it flake off in scale like pieces?
On really bad rust I use Muratic Acid (Swimming Pool Acid) available at most hardware stores. Otherwise I use vinegar.
I pour about one quart of the acid directly into the tank and slouch the tank around for a few minutes then set the tank down somewhere safe, then, every 3 or 4 minutes change the position the tank setting in. After about 20 minutes. Using a plastic funnel carefully pour the acid back into the PLASTIC bottle it came in, you can use it over again. Flush the tank with cold water, avoid contact with your skin. Inspect the tank, then depending on how well it work either pour acid back into tank and repeat process or... Then mix baking soda (one cup) with one gallon of cool water and pour into tank slouching it around vigorously let set for an hour or two rotating the tank position every five minutes. Pour out and wash again with cool water. Using a hair dryer blow warm air NOT HOT air into the tank. After it is dry use a flash light to inspect the inside of the tank.
If some rust still remains use vinegar. Fill the tank full and let it set for about a week may be 2. The vinegar will not damage the metal, but it will remove the rust. Flush with warm water or even hot water. Inspect the tank, if it is clean to your liking, then use a good quality tank sealer.
You will have to gauge time on just how rusty is the tank. You might even find some pin holes, but the sealer will take care of them.
I learned the trick of using vinegar from some engineers restoring a Model "A". They used 800 gallons in a home made plywood tank lined with rolled plastic sheeting in their basement. They cleaned fenders and a whole body this way. It is very slow but will not harm the steel.
One other thing, the guys forgot to make a lid for the plywood tank. The poor guy... his wife raise hell with him...so they made a lid and added an exhaust fan for the fumes. It stunk his house up and his wifey did not appreciate it at all. Lessons learned.