Title: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: D557017 on August 18, 2009, 06:53:23 PM
Post by: D557017 on August 18, 2009, 06:53:23 PM
Hello, my name is Ulf and i live in Sweden.
Me and my father in law have been restoring a -56 Oliver OC3, some work still remains, including the electrical system.
We have a alternator ( or is it called a generator since it`s a DC unit? ) and a new relay, but we don`t know how it should be wired.
The alternator/ generator has two connections, the relay has four connections marked: GEN , BAT, L, and F
Can anyone tell me what goes where?
Tried to add some pictures, but they were to big
Me and my father in law have been restoring a -56 Oliver OC3, some work still remains, including the electrical system.
We have a alternator ( or is it called a generator since it`s a DC unit? ) and a new relay, but we don`t know how it should be wired.
The alternator/ generator has two connections, the relay has four connections marked: GEN , BAT, L, and F
Can anyone tell me what goes where?
Tried to add some pictures, but they were to big
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: 500amp on August 19, 2009, 12:09:38 PM
Post by: 500amp on August 19, 2009, 12:09:38 PM
Ulf,
The Generator should be marked "A" and "F" . You will have to scrape paint off the gen to see.
The "A" & "F" will usually be above the terminals.
The Voltage Regulator L is for Lighting and Normally goes to Head Lamp Switch,
B Terminal is Battery, F is For Field , Gen is for Generator.
Field of Generator wired to F of Volt Regulator.
A or Armature Terminal of Gen Wired to Gen on Volt Regulator.
B of Regulator to Bat
Jack
The Generator should be marked "A" and "F" . You will have to scrape paint off the gen to see.
The "A" & "F" will usually be above the terminals.
The Voltage Regulator L is for Lighting and Normally goes to Head Lamp Switch,
B Terminal is Battery, F is For Field , Gen is for Generator.
Field of Generator wired to F of Volt Regulator.
A or Armature Terminal of Gen Wired to Gen on Volt Regulator.
B of Regulator to Bat
Jack
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: Gazer61 on August 19, 2009, 01:21:46 PM
Post by: Gazer61 on August 19, 2009, 01:21:46 PM
this is how my OC-3 is wired. I should also mention that I have not had the tractor long enough to prove the system out.
(//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/102_0159-2.jpg)(//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/102_0161-2.jpg)
In the first pic I hope that you can follow the wires, left terminal on the regulator connects with the inner terminal on the generator.
In the second pic the other end of the red wire is attached to the amp meter
(//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/102_0159-2.jpg)(//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/102_0161-2.jpg)
In the first pic I hope that you can follow the wires, left terminal on the regulator connects with the inner terminal on the generator.
In the second pic the other end of the red wire is attached to the amp meter
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: 440roadrunner on August 19, 2009, 04:19:18 PM
Post by: 440roadrunner on August 19, 2009, 04:19:18 PM
I'm not familiar with the specific gen type on Olivers but here's a few general comments
It's important to have the correct regulator, what you are calling a relay. This is because on most systems (3 relays) the "voltage regulator" must:
cutoff the battery from the generator when not charging, to prevent current backflow (cutout relay)
regulate voltage to a proper level (voltage regulator relay)
limit amount of current that the gen. puts out (current relay)
For example if you have the wrong regulator, off a heavier duty (higher amperage) generator, the regulator will allow too much charging current and can burn out the generator.
Some regulators have only two relays, a voltage reg. and a cutout relay. In this case, the gen. has a third brush to adjust maximum current. (Generators "in general" cannot protect themselves from too much current output.
Many people will jump on the "polarize it" bandwagon. I'd say don't until you're sure it needs it. I would do this: Disconnect and tape the "B" lead until you get the tractor in good running condition, that is, you've tested the engine, set the carburator, etc. THEN connect the B lead and start the engine, and immediately monitor both the ammeter and a test voltmeter to BE SURE the gen. is charging. If not, THEN try to polarize it.
CAUTION. Generators are of two general circuits, known in the US as "A circuit" and "B circuit." The type will determine which procedure to use for polarization.
In one case, the field winding is "internally grounded" which means that one end of the field is grounded at the gen. frame, and so the regulator switches the F (field) to the A (G) to regulate. charging. (B circuit, Autolite made both)
In the second case, the field is "externally grounded" which means that the field is internally connected to the A (G) terminal, and so the regulator switches the F (field) on/off to ground to regulate charging (A circuit, most Delco)
Sometimes you can see into the regulator through the rear vents or by removing the cover strap and see where the field wires go.
It is important to find this out before trying to test or polarize.
It's important to have the correct regulator, what you are calling a relay. This is because on most systems (3 relays) the "voltage regulator" must:
cutoff the battery from the generator when not charging, to prevent current backflow (cutout relay)
regulate voltage to a proper level (voltage regulator relay)
limit amount of current that the gen. puts out (current relay)
For example if you have the wrong regulator, off a heavier duty (higher amperage) generator, the regulator will allow too much charging current and can burn out the generator.
Some regulators have only two relays, a voltage reg. and a cutout relay. In this case, the gen. has a third brush to adjust maximum current. (Generators "in general" cannot protect themselves from too much current output.
Many people will jump on the "polarize it" bandwagon. I'd say don't until you're sure it needs it. I would do this: Disconnect and tape the "B" lead until you get the tractor in good running condition, that is, you've tested the engine, set the carburator, etc. THEN connect the B lead and start the engine, and immediately monitor both the ammeter and a test voltmeter to BE SURE the gen. is charging. If not, THEN try to polarize it.
CAUTION. Generators are of two general circuits, known in the US as "A circuit" and "B circuit." The type will determine which procedure to use for polarization.
In one case, the field winding is "internally grounded" which means that one end of the field is grounded at the gen. frame, and so the regulator switches the F (field) to the A (G) to regulate. charging. (B circuit, Autolite made both)
In the second case, the field is "externally grounded" which means that the field is internally connected to the A (G) terminal, and so the regulator switches the F (field) on/off to ground to regulate charging (A circuit, most Delco)
Sometimes you can see into the regulator through the rear vents or by removing the cover strap and see where the field wires go.
It is important to find this out before trying to test or polarize.
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: Gazer61 on August 19, 2009, 04:24:33 PM
Post by: Gazer61 on August 19, 2009, 04:24:33 PM
posting pictures
Blake sent me this link when I was getting started on posting pictures
http://cletrac.org/newbb/viewtopic.php?t=1053 (http://cletrac.org/newbb/viewtopic.php?t=1053)
Blake sent me this link when I was getting started on posting pictures
http://cletrac.org/newbb/viewtopic.php?t=1053 (http://cletrac.org/newbb/viewtopic.php?t=1053)
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: D557017 on August 19, 2009, 05:03:43 PM
Post by: D557017 on August 19, 2009, 05:03:43 PM
Thank you for your answers, here is another try with the pictures:(//http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww184/d557017/P1050584.jpg)(//http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww184/d557017/S5030580.jpg)(//http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww184/d557017/S5030581.jpg)
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: John Schwiebert on August 20, 2009, 12:44:22 AM
Post by: John Schwiebert on August 20, 2009, 12:44:22 AM
The other end of the wire going to the regulator's B terminal is hooked to one terminal of the Ammeter. Also you need to polarize it and it is a A circuit system. I have a chart I can send you if I had your e-mail address. Also 90+% of all tractor regulator are 2 unit regulators no matter if they are 2 or 3 brush generators and your unit is Positive ground which is also true on most older farm tractors.
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: D557017 on August 21, 2009, 05:01:39 PM
Post by: D557017 on August 21, 2009, 05:01:39 PM
By B terminal, do you mean the connection BAT on the relay?
Not sure what you mean by A circuit and polarizing, maybe the language barrier.
My E-mail adress is: otternas@telia.com
Regards, Ulf in Sweden
Not sure what you mean by A circuit and polarizing, maybe the language barrier.
My E-mail adress is: otternas@telia.com
Regards, Ulf in Sweden
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: Gazer61 on August 22, 2009, 01:40:45 AM
Post by: Gazer61 on August 22, 2009, 01:40:45 AM
Ulf
I think what John is trying to say is that the B side is the side with one terminal,here are some pictures of the manual that I hope will help.
(//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/cman002-2.jpg)
(//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/IMG_0657-1.jpg)
I think what John is trying to say is that the B side is the side with one terminal,here are some pictures of the manual that I hope will help.
(//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/cman002-2.jpg)
(//http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/IMG_0657-1.jpg)
Title: Re: Oliver OC3 Alternator
Post by: D557017 on August 24, 2009, 07:08:34 PM
Post by: D557017 on August 24, 2009, 07:08:34 PM
As John said, this Oliver has a positive ground/ earth connection.
By polarizeing the amp meter, do you mean that if i connect it wrong the needle in the gauge will move the wrong way?
So, to sum it up:
GEN on the control unit to A on the generator
F on the control unit to F on the generator
BAT on the control unit to the amp meter, and from there to the battery
L on the regulator to fusebox and from there to lights (or would it be better to feed the fuses from the battery and never connect L ? )
Comments or suggestions?
Ulf
By polarizeing the amp meter, do you mean that if i connect it wrong the needle in the gauge will move the wrong way?
So, to sum it up:
GEN on the control unit to A on the generator
F on the control unit to F on the generator
BAT on the control unit to the amp meter, and from there to the battery
L on the regulator to fusebox and from there to lights (or would it be better to feed the fuses from the battery and never connect L ? )
Comments or suggestions?
Ulf