I have the cover off of the top of the clutch housing. I see the spring plate of the clutch but cannot seem to see where the clutch makes contact with the flywheel. At this point is there anyway to use a pry bar to break the bond or do I have to start loosening the clutch bolts? Thanks for any help you all have on this issue, Pete
It is a twin disc clutch inside there. I think I'd just pull it out and clean it up if you are already that far. There is a slim posability that you could loosten the bolts enough for it to slip, but I wouldn't count on it. They aren't terrible to pull from the top like that.
Quote from: "Bob"It is a twin disc clutch inside there. I think I'd just pull it out and clean it up if you are already that far. There is a slim posability that you could loosten the bolts enough for it to slip, but I wouldn't count on it. They aren't terrible to pull from the top like that.
Hey Bob,
I was going to try to chain the Cletrac to a tree and start it in gear to try to break it free. Do you think I should try this first or should I take the time to pull it apart? Not sure how hard an E-38 is to brake the clutch free in this manner. Also I have a Model AG instruction book for reference in regards to removing the clutch. Is a model AG close enough to a model E-38 for reference? Thanks for any ideas all, Pete
Quote from: "progich"Quote from: "Bob"It is a twin disc clutch inside there. I think I'd just pull it out and clean it up if you are already that far. There is a slim posability that you could loosten the bolts enough for it to slip, but I wouldn't count on it. They aren't terrible to pull from the top like that.
Hey Bob,
I was going to try to chain the Cletrac to a tree and start it in gear to try to break it free. Do you think I should try this first or should I take the time to pull it apart? Not sure how hard an E-38 is to brake the clutch free in this manner. Also I have a Model AG instruction book for reference in regards to removing the clutch. Is a model AG close enough to a model E-38 for reference? Thanks for any ideas all, Pete
That would certainly be one of the first things I'd try. I'd start it and warm it up so it stars easy, then start it in the highest gear it will so so
The AG manual is basically the same except for the tracks and some other small items, but will serve you fine. It isn't too hard to get the clutch out. I think I'd try chaining it up (Holding clutch disengauged assumed you figured it out), but like I said, just don't get ridiculously rough and ruin something.
Quote from: "Bob"The AG manual is basically the same except for the tracks and some other small items, but will serve you fine. It isn't too hard to get the clutch out. I think I'd try chaining it up (Holding clutch disengauged assumed you figured it out), but like I said, just don't get ridiculously rough and ruin something.
I chained the cletrac to a tree today and had a friend start it up in gear for me. I used 1st gear so it would turn over easier. At high speed I pushed in the clutch and held it when the chain ended it seemed to break it free. I let the clutch out two times and it grabbed each time but when I went to put it in reverse it took off with the clutch pushed all the way down, then I pulled it out of gear so I did not run over all the stuff behind me.
Could the clutch not be stuck but way out of adjustment? So when I push the clutch down it is not totally disengaged. When it was chained to the tree it held it back but when I let the clutch out the tracks spun on the concrete the two times I tried it. Any further ideas would be great. Thanks, Pete.
One other thing, when it is at idle, out of gear, and you push the clutch down you can hear it bog down a little as it tries to stop the flywheel. This Cletrac was stolen for over a year so I am not sure what the thieves did to it when they had it.
If it is not adjusted right, I would do that first. Also make sure there is no grease or sticky oil on the clutch surfaces. That will keep them stuck together, even while disengaged, especially with no load or while you're trying to get it into gear.
If all is in adjustment and there is nothing sticky in there, and you do get it broke loose, go ahead and use the tractor. I don't think it would hurt to purposely slip the clutch a little to get it warm and scuff any surface rust off.
Blake
Quote from: "Blake"If it is not adjusted right, I would do that first. Also make sure there is no grease or sticky oil on the clutch surfaces. That will keep them stuck together, even while disengaged, especially with no load or while you're trying to get it into gear.
If all is in adjustment and there is nothing sticky in there, and you do get it broke loose, go ahead and use the tractor. I don't think it would hurt to purposely slip the clutch a little to get it warm and scuff any surface rust off.
Blake
It looks like there is a dried oil film on all of the clutch parts in there. Is this normal? If not is there anything I can use to clean it? Thanks, Pete
Using it may just clean it up fine. If you can free it up enough to use it, I would run it hard and all may be fine.
If you can get at it, shoot some Brakleen in there, it will help remove any oil or grease on the friction plates. It may take a couple of cans to get it clean.
My DDH goes thru fits like this. The clutch will stick in less than a week after using it hard. After it warms up and I run it a bit its fine. I've never tore into it, but am assuming there is water in it maybe, or oil of some kind. I think I'd take Blake's advice and use it, and purposely slip the clutch here and there.
Glad to hear you got it back anyway.