Hello All...
This is my first post and really need some help... First off my tractor has a Hercules IX engine that was rebuilt not long ago; I guess thats the good news. The engine is equipped
with a Wico XH 1113 magneto, that was recently rebuilt.
Now here is the bad part, the magneto and drive coupling were removed the engine turned over etc. I need to install the drive and magneto from scratch. When I rotate the engine to the top dead center for #1 cylinder and locate the top dead center mark or the spark mark on the flywheel visually through the inspection hole on the bell housing I cannot see any timing mark on the cam gear I have cleaned it well, there just isn't one! The magneto and drive gear were not removed by me.
I have a Hercules service manual but it just isn't clear how to install the magneto from scratch.
PLEASE help me I must be only 20 minutes from starting this new baby!
I am including my direct email address just leaving off the dot com so you can contact me that way a little quicker it is spooge285
Thanks In advance
Larry
I have produced a fact sheet for exactly this. I will email it off to you now. Chris
Hello Chris -
I'd appreciate a copy of that sheet too.
jwetmore at nbnet.nb.ca
On its way ;)
Hi Chris I am rebuilding a 1956 oc 3 with a 3 wi loader and just had the motor professionaly rebuilt with 060 over pistons I have it totally apart rebuilt the tranny final drives etc and I just discoverd a crack in my governor gear and need to install another one I sure could use that info you have Wes signalmen49@gmail.com
On its way....best wishes, Chris
I'm also in the process of timing a Wico X Mag, I have an "RK" visible in the fly wheel timing hole. My rotor does not have any white marks to correctly line it up with the drive gear in the mag. Does the rotor metal tab go in line with the marked gear or 180. ???
bianchifx@hotmail.com
Hello Paul -
I just checked mine. The rotor has a curved projection out beyond the metal high tension conductor strap that has a white line on it to align in the window in the cap for No. 1 cylinder. I recall one rotor earlier that had that curved point broken off. It was still serviceable.
There's a small bar moulded into the hub of the rotor I have, at the perimeter of the gear teeth - centered below the strap - that lines up between the two chamfered teeth on the rotor drive cog. Thus the tooth directly under the metal tab or strap meshes with the 2 chamfered teeth.
My guess is that the "RK" you see on the flywheel is a portion of the word "spark". There's probably a line on the flywheel near it that is the alignment point for a timing light - or the poor man's light - a long piece of ignition wire connected into the nr. 1 turret on the cap and held in the hole so the spark lights up the mark on the flywheel. Caution: that wire can bite if you're a bit careless!
Thanks for the help guys. I got the old gal running this past weekend. Once it started I noticed the fan/water pump not turning. I was able to adjust the belt tension and got it tunning so I dodged a water pump rebuild for now. Now on to the dripping oil pan......
Chris;
Any chance I could get a copy of that magneto install guide as well ?
I purchased an old Oliver OC-3 last year, and had a lot of fun leveling things out till my rod bearings went bad. I'm a computer guy by trade, but managed to install new bearings and connecting rods with some advice from Youtube, and a friendly mechanic. Unfortunately when I was doing my final check of my engine work, I heard the Wico mag click, and wanted to make sure that was the source of the clicking, rather than additional engine problems. I took the magneto off the engine, and I've lived a nightmare trying to get it re-installed.
With the help of a mechanic, I almost had this favorite toy of mine running again; but one of the spark plug wires was cut by accident. I pulled a replacement spark plug wire off a 8n ford, without the solid core..... huge mistake. I no longer have the help of the mechanic, so I'm hoping the install instructions are still available. I'll be the first to admit, I'm way out of my league with this mechanical stuff !
Thanks in Advance;
Jon, ITFarmer
jon.macpherson@gmail.com
Hello All,
I could also use a copy of those install directions.
I have a 1955 OC3, Wico Mag is out. The flywheel does not have the SPK. Instead, it reads HG or could be HC. There is a line on the flywheel near the HG mark, if I would have to guess, about 14 degrees.
The Mag is also apart, at least the top gear and second gear. I am not sure how to set the gears on to be correct.
I was attempting to find TDC of number 1 cylinder (figurng the cylinder count is from front to back 1-4). Struggled to find the compression stroke, hard to turn it over and keep my finger on the plug, figure I have a 50/50 shot it is the compression stroke. Also, I do not see the HG or the white line in the window.
As you can see, I need help....Thank you,
Icenine, I'll give it a try. If you are having trouble turning the engine over take all four spark plugs out. This will allow the engine to turn easily & smoothly.
The mark you see is a "D-C" if it's the same as my flywheels. The "D" may have a small "L" inside of it. That should the the "dead center" mark. That's when the piston is exactly at the top of its stroke. The "spark" line is 1 1/2 inches BEFORE you get to the "D-C" line, when you turn the engine in the direction the engine runs. When you see that mark & feel compression on the front cylinder you are in the right spot.
In your picture I see yellow paint on two teeth of the magneto gear, if that is what i see, you should also have a mark on one tooth on the "rotor". The rotor is the black gear with the pointer arm, with the white line on it. If you line up the tooth marked on the rotor, with the yellow paint marked teeth on the magneto, you should be able to turn the magneto so the white line on the pointer of the rotor so you can see it in the window on the magneto cap. With it in this position you should be able to mount it to the engine just snug. Install the plugs & wires & it should be able to start. Install a timing lite & shine it at flywheel, move the magneto back & forth. You should be able to bring the line so it shows in the center of the timing hole. Then lock the magneto in place.
See if that makes sense??!!
Scott R
Thank you Scott, yes that did help, I appreciate the it. There was no line or mark that I could find on the rotor. So I lined it up with a small knob on the back (opposite of the white line). I was able to get the white flywheel line in the hole, rotor line on the wico magneto in the window. I checked it a few times to be sure the clicks where happening over the plug wire brass pieces.
The good news, I got it to fire and run for 8 to 10 seconds. There was a lot of debre coming out of the exhaust, small black particles. Not sure what to make of it. The engine shut down as if it ran out of fuel. I couldn't get it restarted. Pulled the plugs, they were wet, oily. I had added a drop of oil in each cylinder, to be sure rings would get compression. It is unknown the last time it ran.
I am hopeful the timing is now correct, or at least in the ball park. The carb leaks fuel after trying to start it, once the choke is off. I've checked the floats twice, 1/4 above the gasket upside down.
It was awesome to hear it fire up, if only briefly.
Well, if it ran for 8 to 10 seconds you're very close. If you had fuel continuing to run after the engine died I'd say it more than likely flooded. It sounds like a bad needle & seat in the carb or debris in the fuel holding the needle open. Since it hasn't run in years I would expect all kinds of stuff coming out of the exhaust, bugs, pieces of rust etc. Glad to hear another Cletrac has been "resurrected". Sorry it was so long for the reply, work is backed up now & a lot of people here are in the field this time of year. I'd love to see some pictures, I'm sure everyone else would too. Good luck.
Scott R.
Now I feel so much better, I just did/got through all of this too. Today I sprayed a puff of starter fluid in the air breather pipe, while the wife held the fire extinguisher, I rolled it over and mine fired and ran for 3 seconds, next I change its diet over to gasoline. We'll see how that goes....
It runs! The OC3 starts pretty quickly cold, a few cranks and fires right up. Once hot, it is very hard to start. Is this a timing issue? Or a case of a starter issue??
Does the starter turn it over ok when hot? If so, I would say it's not a starter issue. Maybe your valve clearances are too tight?
Quote from: Icenine on August 13, 2017, 12:48:09 PM
It runs! The OC3 starts pretty quickly cold, a few cranks and fires right up. Once hot, it is very hard to start. Is this a timing issue? Or a case of a starter issue??