I finally have started the reassembly of my Dads 51 OC-3.
I had the transmission case cleaned and bead blasted.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/Reassembly/ca4594cc-c285-4d0c-860a-705d66569094_zpsebbe2964.jpg)
I have ordered all new bearings for the transmission and differential.
I made a new reverse shaft.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/Reassembly/6f00eaa9-12c2-4a6c-986e-582e3c69d370_zps7c0a8b4f.jpg)
I have the reverse gear and new bearings in place
I hope to have the entire transmission and differential together this weekend. I think I will have some extra time because we have another snow storm headed our way.
Hi Gazer. Looking good!
Well, all was progressing well. I had the transmission almost together and something caught my eye.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/Reassembly/4c855971-1781-45c4-90a7-2ad7135df6a2_zps64417971.jpg)
I found a crack in the casting
If you look close in direct line with the upper stud. Now the case is stripped clean again in preparation of having it welded.
It might not be a problem, but I decided to play it safe
Does anyone know what the stamped number on the transmission casting means?
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/Reassembly/casenumber_zps176da031.jpg)
I noticed your stud holes go right through into the differential compartment. So they must have been drilled out before. I don't think they usually go right through.
I've seen quite a few drilled out to a larger thread-size with nuts on the inside of the case. Guaranteed oil drips in the future.
Chris
Which stud are you referring to? The ones in front that fastens the frame to the transmission, or the stud holes that fasten the final drive to the transmission? This part on the tractor has never been modified. So what ever is there is factory. My dad bought it new and has never torn it down that far.
The studs that fasten final drive housing to transmission.
Oh, maybe they were through-drilled. I couldn't remember for sure. I've seen so many messed up and re-tapped ones.
I would use the case as it is. The case is cast iron and does not weld well at all. You will likely do more harm than good.
I know cast iron is tricky to weld, but I also know that it is possible with the right person doing it. I think at the very least I will groove it out a little and braze it. Someone had brazed the track frame guide supports on the last tractor that I had, and they held up very well. The problem with doing nothing is that if it does get worse it is a major tear down to fix it.
This may also change my plan. I had planned to restore the tractor to all original equipment. This tractor had the old stub frame, but with this new defect it may be better to use one of the newer frames that will put less stress on the transmission casting. I have both the frame and the final drives to go with it, I got them when I was having trouble finding the right frame. I will take a little time to gather all the facts before I do anything.
If anyone has opinions or advise I will be glad to listen
Yes , you could braze it , but that requires a lot of heat which will distort the casting. That is ok for a track support but not so good for a transmission with machined surfaces for bearing supports! Going with the newer long frame that extends down between the transmission and final drive would be the best way to go, and leave the crack alone. You are right, you want to fix it right as it is a lot of work to get in there and I am sure you do not want to do it twice! A good used case may not be that hard to find if you are worried about the crack.
That might be another avenue. I have a spare casting in my parts pile. On Saturday morning, after I found the crack I went out and dug it out of the snow. After it was thawed out I cleaned it up. I was already to start transferring parts when I gave it one more once over. I found that the casting around the steering lever shaft was broken. :'( It wasn't worth doing at that point. I may send out some feelers for another casting.
To be honest I hadn't considered the distortion to the casting from heating it up, I was just focused on repairing the crack.
I had a few minor cracks in the transmission housing on my 1936 E. I drilled a small hole at the end of each crack to persuade it not to spread, then filled the crack and hole with silicone sealer. It's been over 25 years ago with no problem.
Blake,
Thanks for the information. Did you work the 36E or is it for show?
My plan for this tractor is to restore it. At the present I have no plans to work it , but who knows what the future holds. I may get tired of looking at it and work it. I just want to make sure that if that happens I will be able to and it wont get any easier than right now.
As for drilling a hole at the end of the crack I dont think I will need to do that, the crack ends in the threaded hole for the stud, I dont think it will go past it. I do know it will leak when full of oil, that could be a small problem that is why I am leaning toward braze.
Yes, I work my E quite a bit. Gathered maple sap with her for many years back in the late 80s and early 90s. Have plowed and picked corn with her. And recently used her to drag some logs out of my woods. I've never babied her.
Blake
I have used the green "wicking" loctite on gear cases that have leaking cracks before. Just put a drop on the crack & it will flow thru the crack. Clean with brake clean first & used compressed air to remove or evaporate the brake clean. It will not help structurally but it should not leak, & can be loosened with a LITTLE heat that will not deform the casting.
Scott R.
Scott
Thanks for the tip. I will look into it. That may be a good plan if I use the new updated frame that will take some of the stress off that portion of the casting.
SO, I have a replacement transmission casting. I found it within 20 miles of my house.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/Reassembly/newtrans1_zps1ca9e2c3.jpg)
I have it stripped down and ready for the cleaning tank.
Then the gears and bearings are all set to go in
Well I had a good day of work
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/Reassembly/transmissionrebuilt2_zpsc869f84b.jpg)
The transmission and differential are put together
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/gazer1960/Reassembly/transmissionrebuilt3_zpsaaca3e30.jpg)
I had the time to primer the casting before putting it together. Now the focus is set on the final drives.