I'm replacing the drive shaft u-joints, I got new brgs from Zimmermans, very costly, $50.00 each, what is the best way, do you have to pull the engine? Any help will be appreciated.
depends, which style of shaft do you have? pics will help
The shaft is like a short PTO shaft, made by the Blood Bros . 7/8"x 2 1/2 cross with snap rings on the outside. Zimmerson sells a new shaft with newer style yokes for 275.00. Thanks if this helps.
No need to remove engine.
On mine, with all 4 set screws locking the yokes to the shafts loosened, the yokes slide onto the shafts, away from either the engine stub or the transmission stub, and the shaft can be removed.
There was a discussion a while back that the original u-joints were the same as Ford Model A parts. Dunno what current costs are.
I would do some measuring before I paid $50 each for those joints. Model A parts should be very easy to find (if they are the same), and even getting a new propeller shaft made is not that hard. There are places like Point Spring and Driveshaft that do that work all the time. There are lots of mom and pop driveshaft shops around.
Maybe Zimmermans is cheaper Model A u-joint (http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/u-joint-assembly)
That's a whole u joint/yoke assembly, the cross itself should be much cheaper.
The ujoint brgs from Zimmermans were Moog 870, I asked the local autoparts store if he had a listing for these and he did but were none stock. they could probably get them by special order, there price was 37.50 each, still cheeper. I guess I'll be pulling the engine.
Did you try sliding the shaft forward or back on the splines to see if the shaft will slip out?
Well I guess nobody has ever replaced the drive shaft on a HG, a friend of mine suggested to loosen the 4 side frame bolts, the 4 nuts on the input side of transmission, and pry the rearend back enough to let the shaft slide on, It worked about an hour later we had it running. Thanks.
Like Blake and Jack say - can you slide the shaft back and forth to remove easily? I just took mine out. Very simple. The shaft slides back in the yoke far enough to remove easy. I have a 1946 HG42.
is the cross part of your U-joint a ring shape or doughnut? mine was on my oliver. like blake and others say with that style you can collapse the driveline until the doughnut shaped cross part of the joint slips over the driveline on either side without removing the engine. however if some more modern u-joints were at sometime pressed in that were standard cross part you would not be able to collapse it enough to remove the driveline. the driveline that Zimmerman sells complete has u-bolts that hold the joints to 1 side of the yolks so it can be disassembled and installed without removing the engine.
Sorry we were not able to help you with your request Pappyles, there were several different styles of driveshaft used thru out the years on the HG/OC3. One of mine has the style Blake & Eli were referring to where the u-joint assemblies are set screwed to a splined shaft, that one allows the joints to be pushed together on the shaft & lifted out. Another has no splined shaft but a Tube welded between the two joints, with this style you must move the engine forward or the gear case backward. Interestingly the manual I have describes exactly what you did to remove this type of shaft. Some even have a modern style drive shaft with a sliding yoke assembly just like a modern automobile. It appears everyone was trying to gleen a little more info from you to give you the correct procedure.
Scott R.
Thanks to all for info on replacing u-joints on my HG. Thanks Lowspeedlife, your info was helpful. I guess a pic would have been helpful. Yes mine has those yokes welded on a short shaft, about 3 inchs long. there is now way it can be put back in without either taking the engine forward or letting the rearend back an inch or two. The rearend was much simpler.
Some were adjustable...
some not...
Blood Brothers type...