Ok. Here is the situation. When i change the oil in my oc-4, I had about a gallon of water in the oil pan and the engine was running extremely rough and stalling when the throttle is applied. I took the carb of and cleaned it and all its ports with a pipe cleaner. I re-adjusted the floats and reassembled everything. Installed all new points, condensers, rotor button, cap, wires and plugs. Checked the compression on all cylinders and ranged from 120 psi and 140 psi. Checked the exhaust and ensured that precipitation is not getting in through the muffler assembly via a hole or sticky exhaust flapper. The thing that messes me up the most is that i use green anti freeze for coollant however the fluid in the oil pan is clear. Am i missing something obvious?
Crud in your fuel tank entering the lines - did you run it low?
Do you have rubber fuel lines? I've had flakes of rubber flap inside the lines like an artery valve and stop fuel getting through. That one drove me crazy trying to track down a 'stuttery' engine. Finally replaced lines and solved it. I even heard of a guy had a wheat kernel in the neck of the fuel line leaving the gas tank - every time he revved engine it got sucked in and starved the fuel flow. He'd pulled out most of his hair by the time he found the problem! >:(
Check fuel flow by opening fuel line before fuel pump and make sure it comes out nice and easy under gravity.
Also check fuel pump is functioning well. It should spurt the fuel out at the carb, — disconnecting fuel line there and turn engine over to check that.
Check fuel pump screen for build up or blockage.
What difference does pulling/pushing choke make? Working better when you pull choke can indicate a compromised fuel line.
That list should tell you if fuel is a problem, so long as you are 100% confident you cleaned the carb jets and have them adjusted right.
If not fuel, then does it stall when hot? Replace coil first and maybe check for stuck thermostat.
Does it smoke? Grey/black?
Try timing her by loosening off and advancing or retarding the distributor body while she's running to see if that affects the stuttering.
Best of luck. I know it can be really frustrating getting to the bottom of these things.
I failed to mention in my first post that i did clean out the fuel tank, i replaced all fuel lines and fuel filters. I checked fuel flow at the tank, after the filter, and at the carb and good flow. The traditional mechanical fuel pump has not worked since i got it about 6 years ago. I installed a low pressure electric fuel pump that had worked for the past five years with know known problems. When the engine is started at an idle, I can completely cover the air intake at the carb, and it does very little to the rpm of the engine. (the choke cable has been disabled for a long time however the choke can be operated at the carb by hand and is functioning as should be. The engine does not stall when idling whether hot or cold, only when accelerating she will stall as if starving for fuel. Engine does not smoke and I have advanced and retarded the distributor with little good result.
The real question that i struggle with is the clear fluid within the oil. I am wondering if one of the neighbors has poured water in my oil and gas tank. Otherwise I really do not know how the water got in the oil. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
The first thing I would do is figure out where that water is coming from. Are you absolutely sure it is not antifreeze? Did the radiator level go down? It would have to go way down to be a gallon's worth. How long was the tractor sitting without running? Was it running good before it sat?
Blake
Are you sure it was not gasoline in your oil? Running with the air intake covered sounds like a vacuum leak. The combustion air has to be coming from somewhere.
Quote from: pknox on February 17, 2016, 05:50:39 PM
I failed to mention in my first post that i did clean out the fuel tank, i replaced all fuel lines and fuel filters. I checked fuel flow at the tank, after the filter, and at the carb and good flow. The traditional mechanical fuel pump has not worked since i got it about 6 years ago. I installed a low pressure electric fuel pump that had worked for the past five years with know known problems. When the engine is started at an idle, I can completely cover the air intake at the carb, and it does very little to the rpm of the engine. (the choke cable has been disabled for a long time however the choke can be operated at the carb by hand and is functioning as should be. The engine does not stall when idling whether hot or cold, only when accelerating she will stall as if starving for fuel. Engine does not smoke and I have advanced and retarded the distributor with little good result.
The real question that i struggle with is the clear fluid within the oil. I am wondering if one of the neighbors has poured water in my oil and gas tank. Otherwise I really do not know how the water got in the oil. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
100 % sure that it is not antifreeze. It was running well before. Gasoline could be the culprit however it did not smell like gas. good point about the combustion air. Going to do some more investigation right now.
ok I think that i figured out the culprit. Never thought about a broke rocker arm. Now i am thinking that it was fuel in the oil. Good thing I bought a parts tractor. It has already paid for itself.
pknox,
Water and fuel will show up entirely differently in the crankcase. If WATER comes out when you first pull the drain plug there's no further mystery. If the oil has turned to a frothy sludge/emulsion then antifreeze has mixed with the oil. Fuel, on the other hand, will dilute the oil and it (the oil) will come out watery thin and with a very strong gasoline odor. The GO-130 engine has a fuel pump and a leaking diaphragm could be the problem. Good compression is not a guarantee that you don't have a coolant leak. It pretty much rules out a blown head gasket, but does not rule out a crack in the head above the valve seats, particularly around the base of the valve guides. I think the GO-130 is a dry sleeve motor as is the DD-130 so you needn't worry about a sleeve o-ring leak.
If you have a crankcase filling with gasoline FIND THE CAUSE. You can blow the pan off at the least. Marine motors have specific fuel pumps that will NOT leak gas into the oil as a safety feature.