HI ALL, Finally started on my moter today. I have the oil pan off, the head off and one oiston out so far. Some of you may remember, My radiator leaked and I over heated the motor. Resulting in 2qts. of oil per 1/2 hour. I took the rings off the piston that I have out. The oil rings fall right throug the cly. they dont even touch the cyl. any more. I put a compression ring in the cyl. and it holds fine and the cyl. seems round. The questionis in My manual the ring gap is suppose to be from .015 to .020. I have just by looking close to 1/4 in. end gap. I didnt get it miced yet. Iwas under the impression you could not bore these engines. I thought you had to replace the sleeves. The pistons are stamped .020. I take it this is oversize by 20 thous. All I want to do is rerig it. Everything else looks good. All I want to do is rering it. an I get 20 over rings. Any feedback is apreciated. thanks OZZY
Ozzy, accurately measuring the cylinder for round and taper is a really good idea. I'd also advise magnaflux the block before you put much money in it. My IXB came out of a Minnie Moline and it has sleeves. It is marked SL. Original IXB engines for OC3 did not have sleeves.
Sounds like someone put standard rings on your .020 over pistons, that whould give you a little over .060 extra ring gap.
how much ridge is on the top of the cly.?
Ron, No ridge at all. The guy I bought this tractor from said that when he bought it the engine was rebuilt. Talked to Zimmerman and I believe he told me you can bore these up to .60 over. I orderd a set of rings and gaskets. I think the rings shrunk after it over heated. It didnt burn oil untill after it overheated. Dave I didnt take the engine out of the tractor. We pulled the head and dropped the pan. and you can have one guy under neath and push the pistons out the top to the other guy. Worked pretty slick. and saved abunch of time to. I guess what screwed me up, I was thinking I was suppose to have sleeves and when I saw the .020 stamped on the pistons. I was thinking they bored the sleeves witch is not the case. I dont have sleeves. So the plan is slam her back to gether with new rings and what it is is what is for now. OZZY
Getting ready to put my motor back together. Before you fire one of these do you have to prime up the oil pump or just fire it up again? OZZY
Ozzy, when you overheated the engine you took the temper out of the rings - that made it burn oil.
As far as priming the oil pump, I would not worry about it as long as you oiled up the crank journals and cam real good. I would put STP or something on them to lube them until the oil starts pumping.
Blake, I bought a bottle of the bearing ass. lube. Same stuff we us to use when putting racecar engines togethter. OZZY
That should work just fine. As long as everything is oiled up good before you start, I'm sure they can go a few minutes without oil pressure. Many of the old engines of the same era had drip oilers or mechanical lubricators.
You have done the best thing you can do for it.
If you want to "feel good" tow it around with the ignition off until it has oil pressure--then light it off.
QuoteIf you want to "feel good" tow it around with the ignition off until it has oil pressure--then light it off.
The engine is still turning, so I don't know what difference that would make.
Note the "feel good" part of that;)
I guess one could argue that without firing the pressure on the bearings is less--but in all reality it isn't a big difference---just something we always did ----Lord knows we did a lot of things around the farm for no better reason than we always did it that way:D:D
I got my engine back together yesterday. Filled it with oil and antifreeze thismourning and cranked it up. It took about 15 min. to burn off the oil from assy. and to clear out the exhaust from the excessive oil consumption before. We let it run for 30-45 min. and IS IT EVER NICE NOT TO SEEE A BIG BLUE CLOUD COMING OUT THE STACK. So far so good. Gonna put a trailer hitch on before I haul it back up to the hunting property. OZZY