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I also have a 51 OC-3 with the same Anderson blade. The towers that were mentioned earlier are for a loader. I still have the loader, it has a manual trip lever. I will post some pics when I can. I believe that the tilt piece that was pictured is the factory one, the one that I have looks just like it.

Orangeman
I also have a 51 OC-3, with the same frame setup. One thing you want to check for is a crack in the casting around  the stud. I had a broken stud in the trans casting and found a crack ( see my thread "51 OC-3 reassembly for some pics)
I agree with Doug424, My Dad's frame came loose a few times and that is what caused the broken stud. I have taken broken bolts out by adding a blob of weld on the end  and use vise grips to turn it. Another method is to weld a nut to the end and as you may have guessed, use the nut to turn it. The  mechanics of it is that the bolt heats up and the casting stays cooler, this sometimes breaks the rust. You need to be careful not to weld the two together  

Well I had a good day of work

The transmission and differential are put together

I had the time to primer the casting before putting it together. Now the focus is set on the final drives.

SO, I have a replacement transmission casting. I found it within 20 miles of my house.

I have it stripped down and ready for the cleaning tank.
Then the gears and bearings are all set to go in

Scott
Thanks for the tip. I will look into it. That may be a good plan if I use the new updated frame that will take some of the stress off that portion of the casting.

Hotratz
I was wondering, is your machine still as pretty as the pictures??
I know you said that you were going to work it, but work and paint can not coexist

I would just ask around.  there is plenty of people on this site that have parts piles that might be willing to help out.

Blake,
Thanks for the information.  Did you work the 36E or is it for show?
My plan for this tractor is to restore it. At the present I have no plans to work it , but who knows what the future holds. I may get tired of looking at it and work it. I just want to make sure that if that happens I will be able to and it wont get any easier than right now.
As for drilling a hole at the end of the crack I dont think I will need to do that, the crack ends in the threaded hole for the stud, I dont think it will go past it. I do know it will leak when full of oil, that could be a small problem that is why I am leaning toward braze.

That might be another avenue. I have a spare casting in my parts pile. On Saturday morning, after I found the crack I went out and dug it out of the snow. After it was thawed out I cleaned it up. I was already to start transferring parts when I gave it one more once over. I found that the casting around the steering lever shaft  was broken. It wasn't worth doing at that point. I may send out some feelers for another casting.

To be honest I hadn't considered the distortion to the casting from heating it up, I was just focused on repairing the crack.

I know cast iron is tricky to weld, but I also know that it is possible with the right person doing it. I think at the very least I will groove it out a little and braze it.  Someone had brazed the track frame guide supports on the last tractor that I had, and they held up very well. The problem with doing nothing is that if it does get worse it is a major tear down to fix it.
This may also change my plan. I had planned to restore the tractor to all original equipment. This tractor had the old stub frame, but with this new defect it may be better to use one of the newer frames that will put less stress on the transmission casting. I have both the frame and the final drives to go with it, I got them when I was having trouble finding the right frame. I will take a little time to gather all the facts before I do anything.
If anyone has opinions or advise I will be glad to listen

Chris
Which stud are you referring to? The ones in front that fastens the frame to the transmission, or the stud holes that fasten the final drive to the transmission? This part on the tractor has never been modified. So what ever is there is factory. My dad bought it new and has never torn it down that far.

Does anyone know what the stamped number on the transmission casting means?

Well, all was progressing well. I had the transmission almost together and something caught my eye.

I found a crack in the casting
If you look close  in direct  line with the upper stud. Now the case is stripped clean again in preparation of having it welded.
It might not be a problem, but I decided to play it safe

I finally have started the reassembly of my Dads 51 OC-3.
I had the transmission case cleaned and bead blasted.
 
I have ordered all new bearings for the transmission and differential.
I made a new reverse shaft.
 
I have the reverse gear and new bearings in place
I hope to have the entire transmission and differential together this weekend. I think I will have some extra time because we have another snow storm headed our way.

If I find out that the spindle is bad, I will shop for a final drive. I figure that there should be a few people that have spare final drive castings out there. I have a spare set of final drives, but they are from the newer frame. I had them all primed and ready to paint when I found the correct frame for my early OC-3. I still could go that route, but choose not to.