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Messages - GMCPic

#1
After doing some searching I remembered that Ford 2N, 9N used Autolite Generators and they used a screw on pulley.

So I ordered one and it looks like it is going to work.

Who knew... :wink:  :wink:
#2
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / New Source of Parts ???
July 26, 2010, 09:47:37 AM
I ran across this web site last night.

In Fresno, CA

www.tractoropolis.com
#3
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Oliver HG oil filter
July 26, 2010, 05:38:23 AM
Go with the NAPA 1105... :P
#4
Any one have a recommendation as to what type, brand and weight to use??? 1947 Oliver HG-42 w/Hercules IXK3 engine.

I was thinking of Quaker State 30W Non-Detergent.

I used the NAPA 1105 oil filter. :?
#5
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: HG to restore.
July 26, 2010, 05:14:33 AM
Hey if you decide not to try it... well I am quite sure there are a few people around that well gladly take it off your hands.

In fact in what general area are you located?? :P
#6
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: HG to restore.
July 26, 2010, 05:09:04 AM
Go for it. I'd pull it out of the weeds, then check the oil for water, pull the plugs and pull some oil down the cylinders et it set for awhile. Get a set of jumper cables and see if it turns over just for fun.

I just bought mine it is a 1947 HG-42 with after market dozier blade. I pulled the starter and generator and took them down to my local auto electric shop for R&R. For less than $200.00 I have both in like brand new condition with a local guarantee.
Dave at the shop knew exactly what I had and what they were for when I walked in the door of his shop. I stayed with 6Volts.

I sent the water pump and radiator out for some R&R also. I pulled the gas tank and washed it out with Muratic Acid (Swimming Pool Acid) then poured some tank sealer into the tank after thoroughly washing the tank with water and baking soda.

The people on the web site are a lot of help. There are companies out there manufacturing new parts. These are very sturdy pieces of equipment as are the engines.

And if you compare the work these machines will do against the cost of a new tractor well it is money well spent.

Good Luck,
GMCPic
#7
Well all,

The Starter and Generator have been rebuilt, the starter had a shorted armature. The Generator had to have the field windings re-wrapped. Pulled the radiator and water pump sent both out for R&R as necessary. Changed the battery and Oil filter and bought new fan belt. Replaced all spark plugs with Autolite #3076 threw out the Champion W14s. Next change the oil...any recommendations??? I'm thinking non-detergent 30W Quaker State or Mobil.

It is a 1947 so I guess I will paint it Meadow Green???

Oh yeah! I need to find a new pulley for the 6V Autolite generator, it is an Autolite GAS4188A so far all the regular places do not have a pulley. They just want to sell me a conversion to a Delco Alt. Ford used an Autolite on the 2ns & 9Ns that had a screw on pulley. Maybe that will work... :roll:
#8
OK, I'm a new guy here but I have been restoring cars trucks and motorcycles for a really long time.

The process I use to clean a gas/fuel tanks depends on how bad the rust is.

Is it just surface rust or does it flake off in scale like pieces?

On really bad rust I use Muratic Acid (Swimming Pool Acid) available at most hardware stores. Otherwise I use vinegar.

I pour about one quart of the acid directly into the tank and slouch the tank around for a few minutes then set the tank down somewhere safe, then, every 3 or 4 minutes change the position the tank setting in. After about 20 minutes. Using a plastic funnel carefully pour the acid back into the PLASTIC bottle it came in, you can use it over again. Flush the tank with cold water, avoid contact with your skin. Inspect the tank, then depending on how well it work either pour acid back into tank and repeat process or... Then mix baking soda (one cup) with one gallon of cool water and pour into tank slouching it around vigorously let set for an hour or two rotating the tank position every five minutes. Pour out and wash again with cool water. Using a hair dryer blow warm air NOT HOT air into the tank. After it is dry use a flash light to inspect the inside of the tank.

If some rust still remains use vinegar. Fill the tank full and let it set for about a week may be 2. The vinegar will not damage the metal, but it will remove the rust. Flush with warm water or even hot water. Inspect the tank, if it is clean to your liking, then use a good quality tank sealer.

You will have to gauge time on just how rusty is the tank. You might even find some pin holes, but the sealer will take care of them.

I learned the trick of using vinegar from some engineers restoring a Model "A". They used 800 gallons in a home made plywood tank lined with rolled plastic sheeting in their basement. They cleaned fenders and a whole body this way. It is very slow but will not harm the steel.

One other thing, the guys forgot to make a lid for the plywood tank. The poor guy... his wife raise hell with him...so they made a lid and added an exhaust fan for the fumes. It stunk his house up and his wifey did not appreciate it at all.  Lessons learned.
#9
Picture if it works.
#10
Next comes compression test, keep fingers crossed.

Battery does not want to take a charge, another trip to the NAPA store for 6 volt battery. The old battery is also from NAPA.

Oil type & weight recommended:?: It has a NAPA oil filter on it, so no problem getting cross reference numbers and replacement filter there.

Oil type and weight for Transmission:?:  

Recommended oil  for air breather/clean:?:

What is recommended track slack adjustment :?: Mine seems way too tight.

I know this is all probably in the manuals.


Thanks,
GMCPic
#11
GMCPic again,

Well today I hooked up a battery to the tractor and low & behold it cranked over and the oil pressure gauge moved up to 40 psi as it was cranking over. :?:

So when did Hercules start using a Tillitson  Carb on their engines? :shock:

Pictures coming....

GMCPic :mrgreen:
#12
Me again,

All tech support and advice would be greatly appreciated.

I am questioning my sanity about this project.

I am also restoring a 1970 Mustang Coupe (daily driver) , a 1948 GMC 1/2 ton short bed pickup FC101 (daily driver) and a 1948 GMC 1 1/4 ton flat bed truck (FC253). :roll:

Pictures of the trucks are on the Stove Bolt page.
#13
Well  today I did a little more digging and found the engine serial number.

S/N 1928282 and IXK3 with Water pump, Starter and Generator. Also took some pictures.

I looked for the tractor serial plate but there was none either on the frame or bell housing. Also no serial/ID plate on the engine.

I need to figure out how to download pix and how many should I download. I reduced size to 800pix wide and 680 pix high.

So it seems that this is a 1947, possibly 1948, but not likely.

When I bought the tractor last week I was given an intake/exhaust manifold which is not for the Hercules IXK3 or any IX? model engine. It is probably for a 4 cyl. continental.

I think I was not given the whole truth about the tractor, but I got it for $500.00 and an extra engine for an additional $100.00 which was rebuilt at the local college.
The oil on the dip stick was fairly clean, no moisture or rust on dip stick.

Needs new plug wires and probably points

Now I need to find a manifold and radiator.

Tomorrow I plan on trying to turn the engine over with a new battery. Then take the Starter and Generator to our local auto electric shop, Paradise Auto Electric. The guy is really good, he has been at it for may years. Then pull the radiator and take it to a local radiator shop to get an estimate for repairs and if possible replace the radiator core.
#14
Hi to all,

Being new to  this forum I will introduce myself.

Mike Gilman known as GMCPic from Northern California, Paradise.

I just purchased an Oliver Crawler tractor. From what I have been reading it seems to be an HG-42 w/dozer blade. Can not find a serial plate but casting numbers behind the mag are 7 11 47 have not got to engine numbers yet. Been reading of where to find numbers. According to what I have read though it must be between a 1947/48 and 1951. It is green over green some parts are green with yellow underneath.

It does not run, needs an intake/exhaust manifold and radiator. All the rest of it is there including sheet metal and fenders. It has a Tillotison carb.  Someone removed the power take off and installe a blank plate which is yellow (sort of). 6 volt with Delco Generator and starter.

I would guess the engine is a Hercules IXK or IXB, probably IXK.

The hydraulics are not Oliver but some add on at later time. When I post pictures all will be explained.

I have been taking pictures :D