Messages

Could somebody please tell me how to time the mag. to the water pump?  Thanks

Is it safe to assume that I don't have to time the gov. gears? My thinking is that unlike the ixb-3 the mag. is not gov. driven.

I have an IXB5 stationary engine that I'm putting together that I recently picked up. The mag. Is finished and timed with the crank. The gov. was off ...the mark is an "S" on the gear that drives the gov.  I don't know what to look for on the gov. gear.  Any thoughts? I'd like to get this running. Thanks Cork

  Just think how muddy it would be if it wasn't the dry season.

OK, I give!  Spent a few hours trying to grind and press out one of four spindles...I don't want to work this hard!  Thanks to Chris I've made arrangements to replace my final drive housings with good ones from him.  I'm not the smartest Oliver owner out here or grammatical wizard...on my last post I made up the word "egged"   Frankly I would be a bit concerned if after I re-cut the threads  they may be substandard.  Counting on the cotter pin to subsidize the lack of good threads might be a temporary bandaid.  After working on mine I have no regrets about replacing my poor parts with quality parts.  Cork

Gazer,  Sorry I didn't get back sooner.  I would also check and see if the trunnion is tight on the spindle. Mine was so loose it wobbled on the larger part of the shaft and ruined the threaded end of the spindle, it also made the shaft somewhat egged shaped. The bull gear was so loose it chewed up the bottom edge of the inner bearing for the pinion and tried to grind its way through the final drive cover. Check also to make sure the outer bearing race for the bull gear is snug on the spindle shaft...it's not a pressed fit but should not wobble.  I tried to post pictures from photo bucket and was not successful.  I'll get it figured out soon I hope.  Cork

Chris,  1st class find and job!

Sounds like I'm on the right path.  Thanks for all the help.  Cork

 Robert,  Thanks for the reply.  Glad to know that it might not be that tight of a fit and freezing the new spindle makes sense.  Cork

  I may be in over my head but I can't be the first.  I started out just doing some minor jobs to my early HG/ Cletrac 68...now it's down to a frame with a transmission/diff. case.   The spindles are bad and I have some very good final drive housings with spindles from a 42".  The question is - How hard is it to remove the spindles and replace the bad ones?  Has anyone done this and how do I proceed?  My guess is that I grind the weld on the inner trunnion and press toward the outside on the spindle...perhaps heat the outer part of the trunnion?  Any advice is greatly appreciated.  Thanks Cork

Thank you Chris.  On a related note I've never received the bulletin you asked me to share.  If I get it I will.  Cork

  I'm working on a HG68.  The IXK motor is bad and needs to come out.  My question is, Are there bolts behind the track hangers that bolt the frame to the bellhousing? I know on my 42's that blind bolts exist..2 on each side.  I'd be tickled if I didn't have to remove so much to get the motor out.  Thanks  Cork

John,  pm sent,   Cork

Can I replace an earlier idle wheel with holes with a later solid wheel? Do I have to use the early idler supports or can I use the later OC3?  I'm working on an HG-68 and am not sure if some of these parts are interchangeable.  Thanks Cork

Thanks for the reply Bill,   I've got an Anderson like you describe and removal was easy.   I thought that just maybe somebody had a "magic" solution.  It looks like a rosebud and BFH are the ticket.  The frame work for the Anderson is very well welded to the Oliver frame so dropping it is out of the question. The biggest problem other than rust is access to the pins from outside of the track carriage...Time to get creative.  Cork