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I never gave those notches any thought before, I have always pulled shaft out a few inches then lifted cover up.  Next time I will try rotating cover like you said.

Clutch shaft has to be pulled part way out so cover can be lifted straight up.

That is a lot of extra work just to get the clutch cover of.  I think I would rather pull out the clutch shaft and bearing.

Remove the shaft from clutch cover.

Remove driveshaft, unbolt clutch cover and remove.

Maybe somebody moved the tractor on the starter or foot slipped of clutch pedal while turning engine over with trans in gear. 

Those tabs you see were added by a previous owner, I know because he had the heavy duty nose of an OC3 loader on the front and had welded a bracket to the top of the nose to mount a cylinder.

The middle picture above shows top view of blade.  The mount you see in center of blade was added at some point in time.  The short side plates for the actuating arms and connecting shaft are bolted and welded to the full length side plates.  I think these parts must have been scavenged of some other model of tractor.

Yes I think arms and blade are factory, however if you look at attached pictures where blade is attached with bolts, there is an extra set of holes, top and bottom, so that blade can be manually angled.  But when blade is touching the ground the top and bottom mounting holes are not 90 degrees to the ground so when blade is angled the leading edge of blade contacts the ground and rear edge of blade is still 3 inches of ground. 

I haven't seen another one like this before either but everything fits the tractor so good.  The side plates run the full length of the tractor and are bolted to frame not welded.  It came with a PK5 Vickers pump on it.  No identification tags or stampings I can find.

Does anyone know if this was an attachment for an Oliver or was it for another brand of tractor?  If anyone has a picture of a complete one I would like to see it if you could post it.  Single cylinder on left side.  Arm and link for right side is missing.  Link for left is just something made to fit.  Original cylinder had 4-5 inch diam cylinder.

I looked through the entire aux. trans section and couldn't find the info I wanted so I will post here and try to get the info.  I have an original aux. Transco transmission. I have googled all the numbers on the trans case and have come up with 0 results.  Does anybody have a link to a website that shows a trans breakdown with part numbers.  Identification markings are as follows:  NSULC 964 stamped on clutch housing above clutch rod.  A-7222-C stamped on top of trans right behind clutch housing.  E stamped on top of trans at rear of trans between shift rails.  The output shaft seal housing is stamped A-1085-A1. 

Remove spark plug, ground coil wire and turn engine over with starter.  Should blow finger out if you have good compression.

Yes.

Turn pins and bushings 180 degrees from original position.  Go to Community College or Trade School they will have good text books for reference.  John Deere has a good text book called Tires and Tracks Fundamentals Of Service.  It was a manual used in Community Colleges in Canada.  It is an old text book but then a Cletrac is an old machine.  I hope you have a big press.