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Messages - jeffesonm

#1
It is listed as 'All Mineral SAE90 Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid' and says GL1 so I think it should be the right stuff.  Also I will wipe off the liners with some brake cleaner before putting them back in.

Looks like the last time this was off they sealed it up with blue RTV and it didn't leak, so I guess I'll do the same.
#2
The nuts on the brake adjustment rods are all the way forward.

I've got some of this at home, so maybe I will scoop out the remaining sludge from the bottom of the casing, put it back together and give it a go with the mineral oil.
#3
I have to tug pretty hard to turn the OC 46 so I figured I should replace the brake bands before I scored the drums or something worse.  I drained the fluid, got the cover off the back and pulled out one of the bands and to my uneducated eye it looks pretty darn good.  The lining is about 1/4" thick and plenty of meat left before it reaches the rivets.  Drums look good and clevis was adjusted to right about 2 13/16" as specified in the manual.  Why is this thing steering so poorly?  Something else I should adjust?  Maybe the last guy used detergent oil?  Suggestions?





#4
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC46-3D Starting
May 29, 2013, 10:07:40 PM
I cleaned all the gunk out of the filter housing and replaced the filter and it started back up.  Not sure if there is some sediment in the tank or what, but maybe if it happens again I will clean and purge the tank.

As for the pump, as best I can tell it isn't actually doing anything when I pump it.  When I had the filter housing out I stuck the supply line in a can of fuel and pumped it for a while, but nothing came up and out of the line into the housing.  I presume that's how this thing is supposed to work?

To get it started I removed the caps on the injectors and blew air into the tank opening until fuel came out of the first injector.  Then I capped that one and repeated for the next two.  In the absence of a functioning primer this seemed to do the trick.

The machine always needs starter fluid to get going but once it's running it's nice and smooth.  Not a huge deal since starter fluid is cheap, but anything I can do to get it started on its own?  Or is that just how a 50+ year old machine wants to work?
#5
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / OC46-3D Starting
May 27, 2013, 05:03:21 PM
I've got at 1962 OC46 with the 3 cyl diesel.  I only use the machine once every few months.  I was out back yesterday and after running for about 10 minutes it died.  It will start back up with starting fluid (always needs it to start) but then just dies.  Took the primary fuel filter off and there was some gunk in the bottom so I'm going to clean out the housing and get a new filter when stores are back open tomorrow.  Anything else I should do/check before putting it back together here?

Also I think the hand primer pump is shot as there isn't any resistance when pumping it.  Any idea where I can get a new one?  Thanks.
#6
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC46-3D smokes
October 10, 2012, 12:48:27 PM
Thanks guys.  The new gauge should be here tomorrow so we'll see what that says.  Motor seems to have good power.  I don't really use the tractor all that much, just drag a few logs out of the woods.  It's a little slow to start and needs a good shot of starter fluid to get going.
#7
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: OC46-3D smokes
October 09, 2012, 07:32:51 PM
I should also mention the oil pressure gauge is pegged all the way past the highest green part.... going to track down another gauge to verify.
#8
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / OC46-3D smokes
October 09, 2012, 04:57:14 PM
I've got a 1961 OC46-3D that has a small but stead stream of smoke coming out the crankcase vent at the top of the motor.  White smoke.  Smokes a bit out of the exhaust when it's cold but that pretty much goes away when it warms up. Always out the crankcase vent though.  Thought maybe there was too much oil in it but I just changed it and put 5 qts exactly in, same thing.  Engine sounds good, just smokes a bit.  Should I be worried? 
#9
In case anyone needs to know in the future, HR Clutch in Bensalem PA estimated $350 to reline both clutch discs, rebuild pressure plate and resurface center place.
#10
Great!  I will get this thing back together here and maybe I can actually drive it.
#11
I just bought this thing and it had a bad aux trans, so I haven't had a chance to use it at all yet  :(  One day I'd like to get a few yards of dirt to regrade the backyard... also drag a few downed trees for firewood and haul some rocks up the hill so I can build some retaining walls.  Generally just light backyard work, few hours a week at most.  I take it they are nearing the end of their useful life?  

I am in central NJ... about 1 1/2 hours from Zimmerman, 1 hr from Philadelphia, 1 1/2 hours from NYC. There is a lot of stuff around here. Not sure exactly who I need but a quick search on clutch relining found a few possible places:

HR Clutch in Bensalem PA
The Rowland Company in PA
#12
Got the seal installed but was unable to get the clutch shaft all the way back in.  Zimmerman suggested the two clutch discs may have shifted out of alignment if someone pressed the pedal with the shaft out, which I most certainly did a few times while fussing around with things.  So off came the clutch cover and out came the assembly.

Before I line this up and put it all back together, can anyone guess how much life I've got left in the clutch discs?  I've never seen a new one so not sure if these still have some crawling left in them or are on the verge of death here.  Thanks.

#13
Yes it is the reverser trans... thanks... one NOS11800 should be at my local NAPA tomorrow AM.
#14
Thanks John, I think that's what I am looking for.  You know I was stupid and was looking through the clutch section of the manual and didn't realize there was an oil seal right there #22 in the aux trans diagram.  I got this whole mess in pieces, already disassembled, and just figured it was part of the bell housing.  If you've got a part number that would be great otherwise I'll be prying the rest out tomorrow and seeing if I can make out the numbers. For gaskets #16 and #23 I got some of this stuff and cut out them out... hopefully that does the trick.

#15
The OC-46 I recently bought had a bad reverser aux trans.  I sent it off to Zimmerman who replaced the bearings and shafts, it up last week and got it all back together this weekend.  Was cleaning up the mating area before I put it in and noticed what looks to be an oil seal half hanging out of where the clutch pilot shaft goes into the clutch housing.  I went ahead and pulled the rest of it off, along with the spring that was attached.  Is this indeed an oil seal?  Please tell me I can just pop it off and replace and don't have to take off the clutch housing now.  The machine came with the manual but don't see this mentioned anywhere.






In happier news I also made a new seat since the last one was basically nonexistent.  I used a base of 3/4" plywood with 2" foam on top and then covered with marine vinyl from the fabric store.