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I was working on this a few years ago and started to get castings made based on the Trasco unit. I got a pattern made and made a couple of castings. The casting cost is rather high and trying to find an iron foundry today that will make them isn't easy thanks to the government forcing all the small foundries out of business.  I may try again as I heard of a foundry that may make them, but cost is the main factor.

 This this crawler have regular steel tracks? They made an HG with rubber tracks that I think had an R in the model.

One way or the other you'll need to take it apart. If you want to try before you tear it down, use a pry bar between the sprocket and track frame and watch where it moves. If you take the cover off over the studs you can see if it's loose there. If not, the whole sprocket, bull gear is moving on the shaft, meaning bad bearings. If the shaft moves along with everything, you could have a loose axle shaft. They often break loose from the housing. If you do want to test it this way, it's best to jack the machine up to take weight off the sprocket.

Why not drill and tap the holes to a larger size, then make special studs with the original size on the outside end and the larger on the other end to suit your new hub holes. Another idea is to again, drill and tap to a larger size and use thread inserts to reduce to the original size. I've used inserts called renu thread, they are solid inserts, not like helicoils.

You need some real heat. You are just wasting time (and mapp gas) they way you are doing it.
With a real heating torch (oxy/acet or oxy/propane) it isn't that hard.

They weren't a bad machine, they use the same Clark transmission as the OC-3.  They have a Continental flat head engine.
The sprocket mounting on the final shaft is often a problem, there's a nut that gets loose and the splines get worn.

I went to the show at Lakeside for the first time last year and it was definitely worth attending. 

Yikes,,, $20 tickets Seems nuts to me

If you search on youtube you'll find some homemade track press ideas. I think the one in Antique power that used a bottle jack, the guy used a pretty big one, 30 ton??  I recall him trying one size and it not working, then he tried a bigger one and it worked. His setup wasn't very  fancy, but he got it done.  If you post the question on the Yesterdays Tractors forum you might some more info there.

Does anyone know how much Zimmerman charges for the pins & bushings?

There was a write up in one of the magazines some years ago about a guy who made his own setup. It was kind of crude and I think he used a big bottle jack, but it worked. I think it was in Antique Power, but I'm not certain. If you are only doing small tracks like the OC-3 , it wouldn't be that hard.  I've been thinking about building one myself, I've got everything I need to do, except time. I guess that's the problem with a lot of us.

I still think you would tear it up with the extra hp.  I have worked on lots of these machines and every one of them had one or more of the following: frame to trans  housing bolt failures, cracked frames, cracked castings, sprocket centers broken out, broken teeth on final drive gears etc.  When you see some people run a dozer or loader in dry conditions, it's pretty harsh.  Saying it will spin the tracks doesn't seem an adequate safety feature. They were designed to take a certain amount of torque and hp, and even with the original 26  or so hp engine they tear up, so put 50 60 or more hp in it, what will you get?  In my experience, they might spin tracks in the mud or on wet grass, but against a load a properly counterweighted loader would be destroyed with double the hp.  Sure, you can build a toy to drive around with an oversized engine, but if your going to work it, watch out!!!

Anyone can do whatever they want, just my opinion.  Also,  just stating some facts to give  people who might not have a lot of experience with this sort of thing some background to consider before they destroy their tractor.

Why would anyone want to put a 6 cylinder engine in a lil OC-3 ? Engine swapping in itself is hard enough if you have an engine of similar physical size. The extra length of a 6 cylinder is just something you won't need to deal with. I've seen so many of these machines ruined by hanging  some 6 cylinder car engine in them. You need a longer frame, different radiator, sheet metal etc. Most any overhead valve 4 cylinder of equal or greater displacement than the original flathead IX series would be a big improvement.
The International C-123 is rated at 40 Hp, with 101 ft/# torque @ 1200 RPM. Sounds like plenty of power for an OC-3.   
If the bigger engine is going to give you power you don't really need, why bother? Unless you just like to do lots of extra work and like to pour lots of gas in your machine.

Farmall A motor would be a better choice. The originals were 113", then 123" The later versions were 135" that were used in the 340 tractors and many industrial applications. Great engines and easy to get parts for.

Can someone tell me the correct firing order for an OOC engine? I'm thinking it's 1-3-4-2 , but not sure. Of all the Cletrac manuals I have, I'm missing the early AG manual. 

I have a hard time believing anything would embed into the point surface, especially with a light sanding. Fact is, I've been using emery or sandpaper for about 35 years and it's always worked, so I'm not real concerned about it.