Messages

Check this company:
http://www.manta.com/c/mm7xyzy/crawler-rebuilders-supply

There was also a track service in Sheridan, MI. I was not able to locate them.

Bruce

pknox,

Water and fuel will show up entirely differently in the crankcase.  If WATER comes out when you first pull the drain plug there's no further mystery. If the oil has turned to a frothy sludge/emulsion then antifreeze has mixed with the oil. Fuel, on the other hand, will dilute the oil and it (the oil) will come out watery thin and with a very strong gasoline odor. The GO-130 engine has a fuel pump and a leaking diaphragm could be the problem. Good compression is not a guarantee that you don't have a coolant leak. It pretty much rules out a blown head gasket, but does not rule out a crack in the head above the valve seats, particularly around the base of the valve guides. I think the GO-130 is a dry sleeve motor as is the DD-130 so you needn't worry about a sleeve o-ring leak.

If you have a crankcase filling with gasoline FIND THE CAUSE. You can blow the pan off at the least. Marine motors have specific fuel pumps that will NOT leak gas into the oil as a safety feature.

Oh yeah... And keep your thumb on the same side of the crank as your fingers. In other words, don't wrap your hand around the crank, just "hook" it with your fingers.

David,

Looking more closely at your pictures I see a spark advance/retard control on the front of the mag that would have at one time been attached to a lever. Check to make sure that this is not in a "stop" position beyond full retard. The reason for retarding the spark when you crank start an engine is so that the crank will be less likely to kick back when the engine fires. The piston is on the way down (beyond TDC) when the spark snaps. Once the engine is running the spark is advanced and the cylinder actually fires as the piston is reaching the top of the stroke. Momentum carries the rotation forward.

Bre620,

Easiest way to check a magneto for spark is to take one of the plug wires and hold or position it so you have a gap of aprox. 1/8" between the wire and the block and then crank the engine and look for a spark. Alternately you can take a spark plug known to work, attach the wire, and make sure the plug is grounded to the block. As you crank the engine you'll see a spark when the mag "fires" that wire/cylinder. To make the job easier you might remove the spark plugs to make cranking easier. If the magneto produces a "snap" or click as you crank you'll know that the impulse coupling is working. The impulse coupling holds the rotation of the magneto briefly while cranking and then lets the armature "snap" past the magnet as the points open to produce a spark.

If the mag produces no spark the most likely reason is corrosion on the points or an incorrect point gap. The condenser/capacitor may also be faulty, but if the machine ran within the last year this is unlikely. Moisture and corrosion in the cap and on the rotor may also create a no-spark condition. Most mags allow the timing to be "retarded" for ease and safety of starting. Additionally, some mags will ground out or kill the spark when the spark control is moved to the full retard/stop position.  I would check the items that I've listed before you remove the mag. There may be a grounding switch of some sort attached to a terminal on the mag that kills the spark when the circuit s closed.

If you do remove the mag, you'll want to make sure that the motor is on TDC for the number 1 cylinder (piston at the top at the end of the compression stroke) and make certain you mark where the rotor of the mag is positioned. It should be pointing toward the wire/terminal for the number 1 cylinder. Make certain that you make a mark across the drive coupling halves so you can re-align them when you put the mag back on. Make sure you mark which wire goes where; the rotor of the mag is apt to rotate counter clockwise.

Good luck with your project. That is a very nice looking tractor.  Keep us posted on your progress.

A note on unloading your tractor.  DO NOT unchain it, back up rapidly, and then jam on the brakes. Many years ago my Dad tried this with a non-running Cletrac 35. The tractor did indeed roll off the back of the lowboy, but then continued to roll merrily out into traffic on a busy street. Luckily no harm was done.

Bruce

Blake,

So sorry to hear about the loss of your mother. I send my sincere condolences... may God be with you and your family.

Bruce

Hi FireEMT Dave,

As Blake said "... if the unit is not completely worn out,... it is a likely candidate for rehab. Pity the motor is gone; for a 1960 tractor it would have been a GO-130 (gas) or DD-130 (Diesel) Hercules.  These motors are scarce and quite pricey to rebuild. Also a pity that the reverser is missing, although if the bell housing is still there you can get a "straight through" pilot shaft and hopefully the transmission has the reverse idler. They came with and without a reverse gear in the main transmission. I cannot recommend the two "likely" bone yards in West Michigan for Cletrac parts, even though they may have them. Far and away the best source would be Landis Zimmerman in PA.

Good luck with your project if you bite off an OC-46. They are an extremely handy tractor ... useful and fun to operate.
Bruce

That Bosch pump was the same used on the Oliver 77 diesel motor (not the super 77) since that is what the OC-6 was derived from. Oliver never upgraded to the Super 77 motor for the OC-6.
Bruce