Messages

I have used WD-40 sprayed though the spark plug holes for the "first start in a long time". The propane propellant fires off well and what little lubrication the oil offers probably helps the rings and compression. I'd just start it on 5w30 and then change it sooner rather than later.

My OC-3 had this problem too. Suggest you look at a few other common problems while you're in this deep. If you have a loader on the machine the spring/shock assembly is probably broken. Shake the drive wheel to see if it's time to fix the lug studs or install new bearings in the bull gear. I'd be surprised if at least a few of the bolts holding the rail to the rear support brackets weren't broken or stripped so you might take the time to drill oversize and tap larger now. Or not.

Be very careful not to introduce fillings or grit into the system if you decide to cut the old hose. Small particles of contamination can play hel with the spool valves more than you might think. Good idea to run solvent through the replacement hose before installing, especially if the local auto parts store made it for you.

Mine had a bent front axle which might have contributed to a similar condition. Only one track was worn funny and on that side the front wheel had an obvious lean to it. 'Course it also had a broken main spring and only one of the four bolts holding the track rail to the rear support bracket wasn't broken. I think the tractor hit something hard straight on with that track at some point in time. A snapped off tooth on the bull gear and the  pinion gear bearing cage warped all out of shape kinda reinforce that thought.

There is a pretty straight hood on E-Bay right now. Looks like a later OC-3 hood.

I remember it being pretty tight fit. Try the vice grip method and if that doesn't work try the weld something to it method. Surely Zimmerman's can supply a new oil seal retainer if it gets sacrificed durring removal. Of course if you are de-tracked and have the drive sprocket off it may make sense to freshen up everything anyway. That's the way this kinda stuff usually works out. You start to fix one little thing and end up rebuilding the whole deal.

The problem with that seal is getting the sleeve that it sits in out. I was replacing the bearings anyway so I pushed it out with the outer bearing and race. The seal sits up against a ridge in the sleeve and removes to the inside. Could you weld something to the sleeve and take a slide hammer to it?

My OC-3 loader has a tendency to slide sideways on ice. My driveway is kinda steep and trying to push snow banks back turned into a scary experience. Now I use a chained up Jeep.

Sometimes HG and OC stuff is not interchangable. I tried to fit an HG bull gear on my Oliver and although it looked the same it was just a little bit different in important places.

What was the relationship between Clark and Cletrac? Did Clark build all the steering differentials for Cletrac and later Oliver or how did that work? I know Clark made the S70F-12 that the OC-4 used. Was this a patient issue? I know the military used the OC-15 in some equiptment and refers to it as such did Oliver build it? Alot of questions, huh?

There is one on E-Bay right now

I painted my tracks the same yellow as the rest of the machine but now they are yellow and rust which looks ugly. I've seen some pictures of machines with flat black tracks that look better. Are you guys just using oil based paint or is there something better?

I'm glad you picked it up - too many old tractors get melted down these days.

Try removing the gas cap

Well I know the starting fluid would have made it into the cylinders so if it didn't hit then you must be either too rich, out of time, or not enough compression. Since the plugs aren't wet your probably not too rich. Sounds like youv'e looked closely at the timing. You said you can see a spark. Nice bright one? Not 180 degrees out are ya? Only thing left is compression. Has to be one of these things.