Thanks Bill, it's the sleeves that I must have been missing. Engine was way too solid for having all of it's bolts removed. I saw the shims, but strangely, there were only 4 engine bolts.
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All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Trying to remove K20 engine
January 10, 2018, 06:31:05 PM #2
All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Trying to remove K20 engine
January 07, 2018, 10:04:19 PM
After everything is disconnected, does the engine slide forward to disengage the clutch? Doesn't want to move forward, but I really don't have leverage. Trying to determine if I should apply a little force or I'm missing something important.
#3
All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: K 20 parts
October 06, 2017, 01:23:07 PM
Just sent you an e-mail.
#4
All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / K20 engine options?
October 06, 2017, 01:13:17 PM
Will be pulling a K20 out of a barn this weekend. It was driven into it's resting place many a year ago and hasn't moved since. Farmer is now selling everything and I got this guy for a reasonable price. The tractor is in excellent condition and has never been restored. Unfortunately, it's not complete and I suspect there was something wrong with it that resulted in some parts missing. Hood, air cleaner and the governor are missing. I suspect the governor needed repair which would have resulted in the other parts being removed. The engine is free and turns over very easily. I don't think it'll take much to get it running. If I have the time, maybe I'll try to drive it onto the trailer.
Unfortunately, at some point the engine froze and popped the block right behind the spark plug wires. The cracks were welded, but I think it might have froze a second time and broke the welds. It appears the wrong rod may have been used as the weld released from the face of the casting. I'm not planning to restore the tractor, I want to get it to working condition and keep the patina. To reach this goal, I see a couple of options:
1. I grind and reweld the block. Cast iron is supposed to be difficult to weld, but I've had 100% success in the past using a nickle rod.
2. I was hoping to use Lock-N-Stitch to repair the block. I contacted the mfr. and they apparently hate welding and say their product isn't appropriate to repair failed welds. Their option is to have the bare block shipped to them where they will furnace braze the crack.
3. I source a new engine block. Serial numbers will no longer match the machine.
Honestly, I'm hoping to keep the engine in the machine. I'd rather not put the money into the motor at this time and maybe save that for a future project. I also don't want to lose the patina on the engine. I've seen unrestored equipment before and you can always spot the new parts because the finish doesn't match.
Unfortunately, at some point the engine froze and popped the block right behind the spark plug wires. The cracks were welded, but I think it might have froze a second time and broke the welds. It appears the wrong rod may have been used as the weld released from the face of the casting. I'm not planning to restore the tractor, I want to get it to working condition and keep the patina. To reach this goal, I see a couple of options:
1. I grind and reweld the block. Cast iron is supposed to be difficult to weld, but I've had 100% success in the past using a nickle rod.
2. I was hoping to use Lock-N-Stitch to repair the block. I contacted the mfr. and they apparently hate welding and say their product isn't appropriate to repair failed welds. Their option is to have the bare block shipped to them where they will furnace braze the crack.
3. I source a new engine block. Serial numbers will no longer match the machine.
Honestly, I'm hoping to keep the engine in the machine. I'd rather not put the money into the motor at this time and maybe save that for a future project. I also don't want to lose the patina on the engine. I've seen unrestored equipment before and you can always spot the new parts because the finish doesn't match.
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