Messages

Blake,
First, thanks for updating the site. I want to resurrect the images on several past posts I've made that were linked to a now defunked image sharing site. Question: How do I get an image to take the place of the old links in my post. When I try to do this the image seems to default to the end of the post rather than the end of the paragraph in which the image link used to be. Do my images have to be linked rather than posted directly?

Doesn't sound familiar, Can you post a picture?

Well, It's been quite awhile since I started a new topic on this board. Seems like I've just been a lurker since I finished my OC-46 restore over 7 years ago. Since the restore, I've put a solid 60 hrs on the little crawler. I know, that's only about 8-10 hours a year. When I do use it I am always so thankful for all the info I gleaned from this site. The crawler has been remarkably reliable and runs perfect. I had it out today as a matter of fact and worked a stump out with it.  Hope you enjoy.



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If it has sat for awhile and has no spark I guess I would start at the points. They often will oxidize over and not conduct. Try burnishing the points first.

Sorry, just now seeing this. Here's what it looks like inside on my IXB3

Welcome,

Did you look at the "Easy Alternator Conversion" thread stickied to the top of this section?

You can click on the link in my signature at the bottom of this post to get there too.

Hope that helps

This pic shows what mine looks like without the clevis screwed on for the pedal attachment. IXB3 engine, OC-46.  Not sure if the OC-3 is different.

No, I did not use a torch for any of it. My link pin was obvious because it was held in place by 1/4" cotter pins. I would not recommend cotter pins be used when it goes back together though. I used 1/4" round stock bend over when it went back together.

Don't know if this is the best way but the times I've done it, it goes something like this:

Find the master link pin and roll the crawler so the pin is on top. The pin will have some sort of retainer pin/cotter pin in it that will have to be removed. Then loosen the track adjusting nuts so you have plenty of slop. Now remove the master link pin. At this point you can roll the track off from the top front and back. Now the crawler is sitting on flat track like a train. At this point you can jack up the back of the crawler so the sprocket is not touching anymore. I was able to use a 2 1/2 ton jack to lift mine. Be careful when you drive the master link pin out because the track may want to get away from you at the front idler. You want it off anyway but it could surprise you when you remove the link pin. Reconnecting the link when you're done is a little trickier. You'll need to devise a means to pull the track back together. My first time I used a come-a-long to pull the track ends together, not the best way but I did finally wrestle it back. Since then I made a track tool to do it.

With this information I think I would be compelled to drop the track and start doing some investigation. The sprocket could be loose on the studs OR one of the bearings has an issue OR the center gland nut backed off. Regardless, what ever it is you'll probably be dropping the track to fix it anyway. There are a few pictures in my signature link to my restore pics that might be helpful to understand what I'm talking about.

Hello,

Is the sprocket canted over or is the sprocket pretty much perpendicular to the ground?

Is there enough room/material to over bore and re-tap?

Thanks for confirming my suspicion. I think I know why the zirk was added. When a PO bolted the two idler haves together they ran the bolts from the inside and nutted on the outside. This made so much bolt stick out to the outside that you couldn't get the gun all the way on the fitting. I just reversed two of those bolts closest to the fitting and now enough room to get the gun on. Seems easier than installing another fitting....weird
!

Hi Guys,

Just and observation on my OC-46. The left idler has a button head lube fitting on the outside hub and no fitting on the inside. The right side however has a button head fitting on the outside but curiously also has a Zerk on the inside of that hub.

Also curious is the factory hole for the button heads are tapped either 1/2-20 or 1/4 NPT. but the Zerk hole appears to be 1/8 NPT.
This has me believing the Zerk on the inside hub was added by the P/O.

Was wondering what you guys have on your machines? 1 fitting on the outside or both inside and outside?

Front idler pulleys say "HG"