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#91
Military Cletracs / Re: Cletrac MG1 USMC
Last post by 3J1Bill - October 08, 2018, 10:42:42 PM #92
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: HG42 IXK3 timing cover que...
Last post by countryguy828 - September 23, 2018, 02:04:20 AMThis particular machine is pre-Oliver. The casting date codes would indicate it is a 1941. It does have the aluminum tag on the block, but like usual the serial tag is missing. I would lean towards this being the original block but no proof other than it has '41 in the casting codes.
Dave
Dave
#93
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: HG42 IXK3 timing cover que...
Last post by Subgates - September 19, 2018, 03:00:36 PMCountryGuy
Have you had it all of its existence?
I have a fairly close picture of my engine (from the Right side) and mine doesn't have that fitting. Remember this. When owners had to replace an OC-3/4 engine the donor engine could have originally been installed in many many kinds of machines, yours may have come from a boat, temp power unit, generator, pump, forklift, a tractor, or a water pump. That pipe may have been required in that machine and not on your Oliver.
Does your engine have its serial number badge? If not it's likely it was swapped out at some point.
Michael
Have you had it all of its existence?
I have a fairly close picture of my engine (from the Right side) and mine doesn't have that fitting. Remember this. When owners had to replace an OC-3/4 engine the donor engine could have originally been installed in many many kinds of machines, yours may have come from a boat, temp power unit, generator, pump, forklift, a tractor, or a water pump. That pipe may have been required in that machine and not on your Oliver.
Does your engine have its serial number badge? If not it's likely it was swapped out at some point.
Michael
#94
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: How can I mount a backhoe ...
Last post by Subgates - September 19, 2018, 02:44:11 PMI reading
Somewhere on this site there's a picture of an OC-? (3 or 4) with a front loader and a backhoe. I remember it being in the discussion about reinstalling the bell housings and putting things in backwards. So there are some OC's out there with backhoes.
Somewhere on this site there's a picture of an OC-? (3 or 4) with a front loader and a backhoe. I remember it being in the discussion about reinstalling the bell housings and putting things in backwards. So there are some OC's out there with backhoes.
#95
All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / OC-6 diesel pump
Last post by Michael30.06 - September 07, 2018, 10:26:14 PMI removed the fuel lines between the injection pump and the injectors, to pull the injectors and oil the bores. As the operators manual says.
I though that would be my chance to put the injectors onto a poptester and see how they perform, but I dont have the right thread connection on my pop tester, so just oiled the bores and reassembled.
Now I am having a lot of trouble bleeding the pump.
Any tips you can suggest, I have already replaced the diesel lift pump with an electrical one, and I do have diesel flowing in the leak off or return line.
I though that would be my chance to put the injectors onto a poptester and see how they perform, but I dont have the right thread connection on my pop tester, so just oiled the bores and reassembled.
Now I am having a lot of trouble bleeding the pump.
Any tips you can suggest, I have already replaced the diesel lift pump with an electrical one, and I do have diesel flowing in the leak off or return line.
#96
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Having problems reassembli...
Last post by Jim Leap - August 14, 2018, 02:55:03 AMJust a reminder to install the roller oil seals "backwards" to allow for oil to flow past them. I learned this one the hard way.
Jim
Jim
#97
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Having problems reassembli...
Last post by mikegt4 - August 12, 2018, 03:07:37 PMI recently rebuilt some rollers on my OC46 and found that the rollers can bind if not carefully assembled.
Use a hydraulic press to install the bushing into the retainer and the retainer into the axle, not a hammer, I hope that I didn't have to say that.
Make sure that the bushing doesn't protrude from the end of the retainer that goes towards the centering ridge on the axle. Actually if it protrudes from either end or the end of the retainer is worn enough that the grooves are nearly gone then it's time to replace the retainer.
When pressing the bushing retainers into the roller (use a piece of pipe or deep socket) only push them in enough to just clear the retaining clip slot but don't install the clip yet. Press in one retainer, flip the roller over, install axle then press in the other retainer. With both retainers pressed in you will find that the axle will have some slop side to side. Now you can determine how much farther one or both retainers have to be pressed in to eliminate all but .010"-.015" or so of the slop. It does take some fiddling to get to the point that there is only the slightest side to side movement of the axle. If you go too far and bind the axle then just use the axle to move the retainer back in it's bore until clearance is regained. If the retainers contact the centering ridge on the axle then there will be drag that will keep the roller from rotating. Too much slop will allow the roller to slide back and forth on the shaft. The goal is to have enough clearance to allow oil between the centering ridge and the retainers yet not enough to allow the roller to flop around side to side. Each retainer, especially used ones, will be slightly different so you will find that no two retainers will be pressed in their bore to exactly the same depth, again it takes some fiddling but once you get a feel for it they go pretty quickly.
Even though you already have your rollers assembled you can still generate some clearance by using the axle to push the retainer(s) back out in there bore but if you go too far (easy to do) you will have to remove the seal to push they back in again.
Use a hydraulic press to install the bushing into the retainer and the retainer into the axle, not a hammer, I hope that I didn't have to say that.
Make sure that the bushing doesn't protrude from the end of the retainer that goes towards the centering ridge on the axle. Actually if it protrudes from either end or the end of the retainer is worn enough that the grooves are nearly gone then it's time to replace the retainer.
When pressing the bushing retainers into the roller (use a piece of pipe or deep socket) only push them in enough to just clear the retaining clip slot but don't install the clip yet. Press in one retainer, flip the roller over, install axle then press in the other retainer. With both retainers pressed in you will find that the axle will have some slop side to side. Now you can determine how much farther one or both retainers have to be pressed in to eliminate all but .010"-.015" or so of the slop. It does take some fiddling to get to the point that there is only the slightest side to side movement of the axle. If you go too far and bind the axle then just use the axle to move the retainer back in it's bore until clearance is regained. If the retainers contact the centering ridge on the axle then there will be drag that will keep the roller from rotating. Too much slop will allow the roller to slide back and forth on the shaft. The goal is to have enough clearance to allow oil between the centering ridge and the retainers yet not enough to allow the roller to flop around side to side. Each retainer, especially used ones, will be slightly different so you will find that no two retainers will be pressed in their bore to exactly the same depth, again it takes some fiddling but once you get a feel for it they go pretty quickly.
Even though you already have your rollers assembled you can still generate some clearance by using the axle to push the retainer(s) back out in there bore but if you go too far (easy to do) you will have to remove the seal to push they back in again.
#98
All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Diesel fuel filter
Last post by Michael30.06 - August 11, 2018, 04:02:24 AMI am currently using and old filter from a diesel car.
#99
All Models Except HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Diesel fuel filter
Last post by Michael30.06 - August 11, 2018, 04:01:10 AMI have replaced my lift pump with an electric model, because the original had failed and leaked diesel into the engine sump.
Can anyone identify the correct diesel filter cartidge to fit as the only ones I have on hand leak both top and bottom.
Can anyone identify the correct diesel filter cartidge to fit as the only ones I have on hand leak both top and bottom.
#100
HG, OC-3, OC-4 & General / Re: Having problems reassembli...
Last post by Jack in NB - August 10, 2018, 11:35:17 AMHello Steve -
I've run into that too, and if I could turn the roller with ANY device (chain wrench, 4 ft pipe wrench,), I put it on one of the front positions on the track frame where I think there's the most weight (and traction to turn the roller!). Those worked free in short order.
If they wouldn't budge at all, I drove out one retainer and took a round file to the high spots that showed up (clearly!) on the bushings. I used stp when assembling - probably overkill but I had surplus.
I've run into that too, and if I could turn the roller with ANY device (chain wrench, 4 ft pipe wrench,), I put it on one of the front positions on the track frame where I think there's the most weight (and traction to turn the roller!). Those worked free in short order.
If they wouldn't budge at all, I drove out one retainer and took a round file to the high spots that showed up (clearly!) on the bushings. I used stp when assembling - probably overkill but I had surplus.