Hand cranking advice [Model Es]

Started by oliverchris, December 11, 2009, 08:27:29 PM

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oliverchris

Looking at older posts, I see Blake said this "Make sure you always pull up on the crank 1/4 turn at a time and keep your thumb on the same side as your fingers. And never try to spin the engine."
For newbies like me can you expand on this a bit? Why do you not want to spin the engine?

Maybe it is because the Zenith carb drips like crazy, but I have a very hard time crank-starting my E38. And it needs full choke to even have a chance. I will of course rebuild the carb soon, and then try again...but in a Canadian Winter, who knows how successful I will be? Any Winter starting advice?
Specialising in Oliver & Cletrac Crawlers & Parts for HG's, OC-3's & OC-4's from the 30's to the 60's. OC-6 and others from time
1945 Cletrac HG42 + electric snowblade
1952 OC-3-31 sidewalk plow, OC-3-42 + Ware 3-WI (several)
OC-3-42 Heller Universal Trencher
1957 Oliver Super 55, 1958 Oliver 550's Gas/Diesel, 1970's Oliver 1255 FWA
1969 White 2-44 13LL (loader/backhoe)
OC-4 4 cyl. Anderson Dozer, OC-4 Series B 6-way Dozer, OC-46 Series B Loaders
OC-46-A Experimental Crawler Loader

440roadrunner

This is because, --especially if the timing is a little too far advanced---that occasionally engines  fire and "kick back"  with great force.   You can break  bones or wind up with a crank into your gut or ribs.  

The thing is---especially with a properly timed magneto  with impulse,  a well tuned engine  will start with very little force "over center"  as the mag snaps.  Our old family tractor was a Farmall Regular--a BIG  tractor.  I used to crank that thing when I was only 14 or so.   I was then not strong enough to fire it when cold,  but I could manage in the summer.  Even so,  there was a time or two when that bitch tossed the crank around on me,  and I was always very wary.
You cannot break it if it's broken,  but....
You can fix it so it cannot be fixed!!

Bob

My 20C has the same engine as your Es. I have it all tuned up and it usually starts on the second or third quarter turn. Give it about 3 notches of throttle, choke it the first and half choke the second and kick it off as soon as it fires. That is how I always start mine. I turn the gas off and leave it run out to shut it off. That way when it sits the carb won't be gummy the next time you start it. Once you get a system it will start good.

If you watch the carb around the throttle shaft, it will get wet with gas when you have the gas in the carb good (at least mine does because its worn a little). Don't keep it on full choke, you will flood it. Half choke will suffice, maybe even no choke. Like I said it will take a little bit to get it all figured out, but you'll get it. 440roadrunner has it right about the hand cranking.

Bob
Certified Cletrac-tard