BD leak off lines

[cletracboy]

Does anyone know where I can get a leakoff line for my BD the one on it leaks badly as the flared ends are thin and cracked and there isn't enough spare to cut and redo them, my previous atempts at making my own solderd fuel lines leaked badly.  I think I asked Landis about this when I was orginaly restoring the engine and he didn't have any, I'm sure Ray will put me right if thats changed. Does anyone have a good one theyd sell? Sam mailto:sam@cletrac.co.uk">sam@cletrac.co.uk

[peter de vries]

I have had luck in the past with repairing these leak off lines on my DRXB diesel engines. I went to the local plumbing store and got the appropriate diameter ANNEALED copper tubing, then flared the end to suit the back nut on the old tube and then bent accordingly. the plain end of the tube is expanded with a tube expander and slid over the remaining portion of the old leak off line and re-soldered or brazed back on. This worked a treat, but is fairly fiddly as there is limited room for the bends etc.

[Blake Malkamaki]

Interesting differences in the English language! I've always heard them refered to as return lines, or maybe overflow lines.

The don't need to handle much pressure, so copper should work. My dad's Ford uses plastic hoses.

[cletracboy]

Thats a very good idea I'll have to find a tube expander small enough first though.  I don't know why there referd to as leak off lines but they always are over here.  Sam

[peter de vries]

if you cannot find a small tube expander you could also use a short piece of the next size up copper tube to use as a sleeve for soldering or brazing purposes this also works fine, and you may also buy small diameter joining sleeves from most refrigeration repair centers. In a pinch I have also used a short piece of rubber hose to repair a leaky bleed off line, the pressure was low enough to not even need clamps.

[Steve]

I know that copper lines are easier to work with and lots of people use them but this is what I have heard and why I would not use copper. Copper is a catalyst for hydrocarbon fuels and oils, and leads to gumming and varnishing of the fluid.  Copper should NEVER be used for fuel lines.  Steel or proper elastomer only. This came from an article titled Lubrication myths and older cars written by Clark A. Kibler; Member, Society of Automotive Engineers (30 years)

[John Schwiebert]

The purpose of those lines is to return the fuel that leaks by the valve in the nozzle. Now if you want to be practical and you are going to use the tractor a lot. I would go with the Roosa Master tees . Much easier to do, no solderings. I though the comment on the copper lines was interesting since everyone used copper.

[cletracboy]

That article is on the Forum somewhere because I've read it. But I figure people have been using copper for year with little trouble, and it won't clock up many hours now. Thanks for the ideas. Sam

[Blake Malkamaki]

Many old tractors used copper lines as original equipment. As far as diesel return lines go, I've never heard of diesel fuel gumming or varnishing anyway.