Need governor setup help

Started by 440roadrunner, August 29, 2010, 04:05:46 AM

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440roadrunner

If you go towards the bottom of the page:

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2321&start=25

You can get some idea of my homebrew governor, which is on a Toyota 20R, using a governor off a D2/D4 Cat pony motor.   Today I ripped the original Toy 2bbl off,  made a 2 -to 1- bbl adapter plate, and installed a little 1bbl off, maybe,  a Ford Falcon/ Maverick small 6.   I've just completed "roughing in"  the linkage and it hunts BADLY,  IE dumps the throttle open and kills the engine sometimes.  When it DOES   "pick up"  it hunts for 4 or 5 cycles before it stabilizes   I AM running this without the accelerator pump

Any  "general theory"  you guys can offer,  I.E.  shortening this or that lever or lengthinging, etc?

Once it is "stable"  it seems to hold RPM  against a small spring,  but takes little to upset it.  

It  MAY  be that the carb is too lean on the power circuit.   This carb has a typical  "Holley"   "power valve"  circuit which seems to be operating.

So,  linkage?    Linkage ratios?

Accellerator pump?    (I'd love to stay away if possible,  it adds friction and force to the linkage, which the governor  "doesn't need"

Power valve circuit?   too lean?  

Not sure what to go here
You cannot break it if it's broken,  but....
You can fix it so it cannot be fixed!!

Bob

If I'm not mistaken the DG I have has an excellerator pump, but the governor was designed to handle it...
Certified Cletrac-tard

440roadrunner

Well,  I'm a dummy  (not news to some people, I guess)

I had forgotten that this little carb was on I was playing with on a 12hp engine I once tried to adapt it to.   I had unhooked the accellerator pump,  AND  had plugged the power valve jet.

So yesterday and today,  I found a second junker carb,  pulled the power valve out of it,  and ended up (today)   yanking the guts out of the power valve jet so it's "in" all the time.   This, coupled with the accellerator pump,   made the thing  VERY  "drivable."    If you abruptly engage the clutch in high gear/ high range,  you can kill it,  but I'll hardly ever use that anyway.   I would guess  "normal"  use for this combo is to have the Toy 20R 4 speed in 2 or 3rd,  and select the "other gears"  in the original box.

IT WORKS MUCH BETTER!!!.        Also,  I've got one cylinder leaking past the cylinder internally,  and so identified it today and got it apart.   I'll  have to get o rings for it,  and so now feel much more optimistic about the whole deal.

Next major obstacle is to finally get the radiator mounted and clamped down.  It's just sitting in the frame for now.
You cannot break it if it's broken,  but....
You can fix it so it cannot be fixed!!