STARTING 1947 BD RESTO NEED HEAD GASKET AND UNSTICK CLUTCH

[jonathanfleguel]

I'm from picton ontario. im 19 and me and my dad just baught a bd with a heil blade. we got it for a reasonable price saving it from scrap. we got it home and checked the govener and injection pump for oil and set up a jerry can cause the tank was pretty rotton (i got it all brazed up now). hooked a chain on it and got it to fire up. but it doesent run very well. the clutch is stuck engaged (any help on that would be cool) i just bumped it out of gear when it started. the oil in the sump we changed but it quickly became murky while it was running (blown head gasket i think anyone know where i can get one?) i tried pulling it and leaving it in gear but it doesent have the power to move itself. (also a blown head gasket i think). i tried cracking a couple injecters while running and it improved a little. but i think im gonna do the head gasket and see what that does. can you set injecters at home or is that a diesel shop thing. i live on a farm 2000 sheep lots of machinery i know my stuff just not injecters. the dozer has a herc in it i beleive djxc right? if any body knows of a head gasket that would be awsome. problably gonna get a couple of parts and go at it this winter but i would like to locate some parts berfore. oh and the undercarriage is like new sprockets got lots of meat rollers in the tracks have very little wear

[ianoz]

Hi Jonathan , Welcome to the forum .If you look on the cletrc.org home page click on to parts ,it gives a list of supplyers .Zimmermanns seem to be the one most talked about on here ,so their  a good starting point..Good luck with your restoration and hopefully we will be able to see photos as you go along . Ian .

[jonathanfleguel]

thanks for the reply ill give them a call on monday. i tried to put some piocs on but there too big so ill figure it out and get some pics up. i have another question the right track seems not to line up with the sprocket it like the timing is out if that makes sense. the track does look too tight whether thats the problem, the sprocket walks out of the track and then bangs back in

[Bob]

The head gasket is probably fine. They are made from solid copper. When you pull it apart, and check for cracks and ect. take the gasket, and heat it in an oven or fire (must be at least 900 degrees) so it turns red. That anneals it and makes it soft again so it will form to the head better. It calls for some kind of gasket sealer for it too. I'm just working on my FDE now, had oil/water coming out exhaust, bubbles and oil in radiator. Everything lookes OK inside and gaskets are good. Will anneal them and reuse. I'm pretty sure I have a new and possibly a used gasket for your BD (DJXC), also a head and other engine parts if you need them.

For your power issue, just check the timing. A couple degrees really make a big difference. My OC12 didn't run good, smoked, and didn't have good power. Checked timing, couple degrees off, made a big difference.

Stuck clutch... Get it running and hook it to something and yank on it a bit with the clutch in. Slim chance it will do it, but worth trying. Could ruin stuff inside just the same. Clutch could be spanked too, thats why it won't release. Probably be best if you take it out and find the problem. I've got a real nice fuel tank for it too if you need one.

Sounds if maybe the pins and bushings are worn enough that the sprocket climbes the pin, or the track frame is not shouldered up to the inside. Possibly bent dead axel? (trackframe pivot shaft)

Bob

[Blake Malkamaki]

Don't jump to quick conclusions (or guesses) on these engines until they have been warmed up and run a while. Make sure the fuel supply is good. Before pulling the head, I would rig up a compression tester and check that.

Some of these engines (mine included) stumble and miss when they are cold or at idle, but pick right up and have lots of power as soon as the governor opens up.

Blake

[jonathanfleguel]

what should i check if theres water in the oil? i thought it was the head gasket but if there solid copper that doesent make much sense. ill try letting it run for a while and see what happens. i have the exhaust manifold off because when it was taken to the scrap yard the pipe got knocked and broke the manifold. nothing a little brazing cant fix. is it really important not to put a detergent type oil in the govener and inj.pump. i had a look at the right track and it looks way to tight so im gonna try to loosen it a bit i took the inspection plate off it and cant seem to get a wrench in there to turn it is there a special tool and what size is the nut. thanks for the help this is the first time ive worked on a dozer or a diesel this old. i have a 1947 oliver 60 standard that i got running before i got this but im a mechanical guy so the body and paint leave somethin to be desired oh well driving them is the fun part looks are second.

[jonathanfleguel]

i have another question about the oil filter are both sides the same. do i clean both or are they different some how

[Bob]

The oil filters should be brass screen type. Clean them in a clean parts washer, gas ect. Clean both.

There is a chance that the head could be re torqued, and fix the problem, but if its not getting compression in the radiator, I don't think it should go into the oil. By the same token My FDE had oil and compression in the rad. Didn't see a cracked head, but is possible. They are a dry sleeve, so no leaky liners. Still could need the gasket annealed and re torqued. Like I said, found no real or major problems with my FDE heads, but it wasn't good.

I talked to our oil salesman and he said the non det. actually had some detergent in it, just not as much. Don't think it would really hurt anything, will just clean it out.

The actual track wrenck looks kinda like the box end of a wrench with a slot cut in it to slip over the adjuster screw. Feel very luck if you do get it to turn.

Your injector question I missed it the first round. I have a rig setup at my shop so I can check and set the pressure on my own. Has a gauge and basically the pump off a bottle jack with a resivour. Pretty simple to do yourself. Saves alot of cash to at least check them before you send them out. They are easy to take apart and clean/inspect too.

Bob

[jonathanfleguel]

im gonna get it going in a couple days (after i weld up the manifold) and when i do i will let run for a while to warm up then retorque the head. my starter turns when powered just to slow it doesent make any horrible noises just slow now it may have been the cables i was using to jump it but i dont know are these pretty simple or is it best to send them away. i resealed the primer and found a little water so i primed the system with good clean fuel gonna see if it runs a bit better. i took one of the injecters off just to see what it was like it was fairly clean no sludge or big chunks what should i be looking for and or cleaning when i take them apart. thanks for the replys im just following my nose for most of this so any help is greatly appreciated. to all who contributed to the building of this site congrats it definetly helps me with my project.

[Bob]

The starters are fairly simple. Really should have a decent battery and good cables. Injectors, looking for basically what you would with a carb.

[jonathanfleguel]

alright, im gonna put my welded exhaust manifold bach on and give it a pull with no water in the fuel system see if it runs better. be back with a report tonight.

[jonathanfleguel]

well i got it to move under its own power tonight. but it was all it could do so i let it run and cracked some injecters and 3 are good 2 are not and one i cant get to. i think im gonna pull the two injecters and give them a cleaning. while it was idleing it was running fairly well for 10 min and then gradually lost power until it died even a little shot of ether couldent bring her back so i pulled it again and it ran as i inspected it for about another 10 min and then gradually lost power and died it started to rain so i called it quits for now. could this be a big problem or maybe just the filter above the pump not working right. i might try bypassing it next time any other thoughts.

[TDLMOMOWERS]

Sounds fuel related. Check the fuel tank and make sure that fuel is always flowing to the filters and pump. I ran across this years ago on a Continental gas engine. it would run allright for a few minutes, then slow down and quit.  While checking the fuel supply, I noticed that there was trash in the tank that was floating around and closing off the fuel line. I removed the tank, drained it and cleaned out the garbage. Ran fine after that. Also, is the fuel tank vented by the fuel tank cap? If it is supposed to be vented and the vent is plugged, it will only run for a little while and then quit. This creates a vacumn in the tank and won't allow fuel to flow.

[Bob]

There is supposed to be a filter up on the fire wall also. My friend told me his BD wouldn't bleed the air out unless the tank was almost full because the firewall filter is so high. My BD runs similar to what you describe, but for 30 mins or so. Usually it won't restart until a bit longer. I have yet to check anything on it, but am assuming its just the filters.

[jonathanfleguel]

i have the one on the fire wall bypassed because i have the tank off filling holes. so im just using the one filter and a jerry can is the replacable filter easy to get or something to plumb in or do i have to rework it completly