OC-3 track hanger play

Started by Rockfarmer, May 15, 2011, 04:38:58 AM

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Rockfarmer

Well I got the final drives assembled and mounted on the tractor, and did a test fit in the outer track hanger brackets, and discovered a good bit of play. The inner ones were sloppy too but I took care of them before installing the final drives. What I need to know is how much slop is too much? Someone had previously put some braze on them and didn't do to bad a job but the worst one still has probably 1/8 to 3/16 play. The trunnion's look round so I'm assuming its the bracket, is it worth going the brass route myself or just get rebuilt from Zimmerman's? Also how critical is the centering on this hole in relation to the track frame alignment. Don't want to find out when I'm installing the track frames that its REALLY critical.   
1951 Willys M-38 Jeep,Bantam M-100 trailer,1953 OC-3-42--- patience-think twice, weld or cut once

wrangler

personally i'd be suspicious about any slop

hotratz

I'm pretty sure when new there was very little. I'd probably get a new one at least to use to recenter the holes on the ones you want to repair. You could build up with braze or over bore and braze in steel bushings.

Rockfarmer

I like the overbore and bush idea, I'll check with Zimmerman on price, then decide on getting one for a pattern or just get both. I should mention that I'm changing these and the springs over to hard grease, I think its more appropriate for these areas. Along the same lines I noticed when I tore the track frames apart that several of the rivets that hold the guides for the front idler are loose, some apparently for a while as the heads are almost gone. my first thought replace them with  grade 8 bolts but some of the holes are tapered, and there isn't enough clearance on the inside for a bolt/nut. Now I'm thinking about welding them in place. Pros/cons? suggestions welcome.
1951 Willys M-38 Jeep,Bantam M-100 trailer,1953 OC-3-42--- patience-think twice, weld or cut once

hotratz

Another though on the track hangers. I'm not sure they are cast iron. They may very well be nodular iron (cast steel) if so you can weld on them instead of brazing.

Also, I would be tempted to weld your guides in place if you can't re-rivet properly.