bearing numbers

Gazer61 · July 30, 2011, 01:27:09 AM

Hi
got my OC-3 torn down this far

now comes the rebuilding process
what is the best way ($$$$) to find bearings. I have the numbers from the parts book,are they still good numbers or will I have to convert them? I have read alot about NAPA being a good place to find stuff, is that a good option?

Gazer61 · July 30, 2011, 01:39:32 AM

the other thing that I found was a broken final drive casting

my plan is to fill the area with braze, and re=cut the thread

Gazer61 · July 30, 2011, 01:43:38 AM

one more thing is a chipped bull gear

Is this anything to worry about?

Blake Malkamaki · July 30, 2011, 03:33:30 AM

When I lived in NE Ohio, we used to buy most of our bearings at Bearings, Inc., but I know they have been bought up or changed their name, and I don't know what took its place. Here in Meadville, Pa., we have Erie Bearings, which is very much the same type of place. They mainly sell bearings and seals, and a few other things.

You may have a distributor that specializes in bearings near you as well. NAPA may be able to help, but I would shop around first.

Blake

hotratz · July 30, 2011, 05:44:09 AM

Bearings Incorporated is now "Applied Industrial Technologies" That may be your least expensive avenue. Napa is also very good. Get the numbers off the bearings not the part number in the parts book. They are probably different.

If that is the worst of the gear damage I would be inclined to stone the faces of the tooth smooth and use it. Also the damaged hole may still hold the cover tight enough the keep the cover from leaking. Hard to tell from here.

Gazer61 · July 30, 2011, 12:14:17 PM

when I took the final drive cover off the threads were tight, so I assume that it will work as is. I was going to braze it to stop it from getting worse.

hotratz · July 30, 2011, 04:03:35 PM

Yeah, I'd be inclined to try something to strengthen it too if it was already this far apart. Post pictures of the repair.

Jack in NB · August 01, 2011, 05:09:33 PM

Hello Gazer -

If you can find a stainless steel bolt that will fill the full depth of the threads, it will save you from having to drill and tap. Leave the bolt head out 1/8" or so to allow the brazing to flow out onto the gasket surface.

Brazing won't stick to stainless, so when you're done, you can simply remove the bolt and file off the surplus material on the face to give you a true gasket surface.

Gazer61 · August 04, 2011, 02:53:30 AM

thanks for the tips. A SS bolt will be no problem. I have bearing quotes from a local vendor. The prices that Landis quoted me are close and his include a race.

Blake Malkamaki · August 04, 2011, 08:58:36 PM

I have brazed stainless - and it stuck just fine. But I did it on purpose and made a point to make sure it was clean, the flux was good, and I heated it just right.

I'm just throwing that in so you don't take it for granted that the braze won't stick to your bolt. My bet is that you'll be ok, but just be aware that it can stick.

Blake

hotratz · August 04, 2011, 09:27:34 PM

I was going to mention the same thing. The oxides on the surface prevent it from sticking. But properly cleaned and prepped it'll braze just fine. Just make sure it's a dirty bolt.

Gazer61 · August 10, 2011, 01:18:28 AM

I have the frame all cleaned, primed and ready to put back together

Gazer61 · August 10, 2011, 01:28:56 AM

I am moving on to the track frames. I knew the original ones had seen some abuse.The tower that the adjustment spring pushes against are cracked

one is worse than the other

The plan was to use the spare ones that I bought years back, but I just found out that they have their own problem

the dilemma is which one is easier to fix.

I dont like either one!!

Gazer61 · August 10, 2011, 01:47:15 AM

it is temting to use the tractor that I have been using as a donor machine $:-\$