Cletrac 20C w/ Hercules OOC Restoration Help/Questions....

biggurn · March 18, 2015, 04:48:49 AM

I am working on reassembly of the OOC for my 20c. Issues right now: Any one know of a decent manual for these motors? The one from Jensales is garbage...

Next, what goes in these holes? Are they just plugged?

Anyone have a decent picture of what the governor should look like? Mine has been apart and I feel it is missing parts.... Also anyone with an extra impeller/ water pump shaft? Mine needs a LOT of help.

This engine was in boxes when I acquired the tractor. As of now it has all new valves, seats, two sleeves. New rings, one new piston, a new water pump impeller (all on the way from Zimmerman's)... I have the entire gasket set just waiting for parts... I hope someone here can help

Thanks!

biggurn · March 18, 2015, 04:50:45 AM

the impeller remnants:

biggurn · March 18, 2015, 04:51:27 AM

impeller shaft

biggurn · March 18, 2015, 04:52:25 AM

crank in nice and tight and ready for the pistons and rods

biggurn · March 18, 2015, 04:55:07 AM

cam gear in and timed:

Still need to figure out how to time the governor to the cam... and of course the ignition timing to boot, hence why the request for a decent manual

biggurn · March 18, 2015, 04:58:55 AM

And because the impeller, impeller shaft, and governor where not enough surprise, the oil filter:

Everything was blasted today and is now soaking in solvent. The original plan (back when I dropped the block off at the Machinist in October) was to install the engine next week and drive t he tractor. Well the machinist did not even get me the block back until after Valentine's day, and even then I had to take it back as they had not cleaned all the shavings out...

Now its ready and as I go through parts I was told where "ok" I'm finding more issues... the joys of equipment restoration!

Jethrow · March 19, 2015, 10:28:05 PM

Have you looked at the Yesterdays Tractors site?

They list a Hercules Engines Hercules OOC Service Manual for 21.95, might do the trick.

Also, you might take a look a the 20c owners in the photo album and contact a member directly.

Good luck on the project.

Jethrow

Bob · March 20, 2015, 01:52:00 AM

I've got a manual for that engine. Looking good so far.

Might have some water pump parts as well

biggurn · March 21, 2015, 05:04:35 AM

Quote from: Bob on March 20, 2015, 01:52:00 AM
I've got a manual for that engine. Looking good so far.

Might have some water pump parts as well

I'd be very interested in a manual if you have an original! I was able to source a NOS impeller from Landis Zimmerman, but a good used impeller shaft would be great!

Quote from: Jethrow on March 19, 2015, 10:28:05 PM
Have you looked at the Yesterdays Tractors site?

They list a Hercules Engines Hercules OOC Service Manual for 21.95, might do the trick.

Also, you might take a look a the 20c owners in the photo album and contact a member directly.

Good luck on the project.

Jethrow

Unfortunately, its a poorly done photocopy of a manual that covers service data for several models, it does not actually have much but the "specs" for the OOC, no actual assembly information, I already wasted money on one

Thanks for the help though! Looking for all the support I can on this endeavor!

I have the parts for the oil filter assembly and governor cleaned, just trying to find a decent picture of the governor assembly to figure out what I'm missing so I can remake or replace it and then I need to figure out what goes in the holes in the block I noted above...

Thanks again!

biggurn · March 29, 2015, 07:23:50 PM

I would just like to give a big "thank you!" to Bob for all of his help! He has been so willing to provide information that has now become invaluable as I work to reassemble the engine. Still working on figuring out what should go in the holes I have noted in the above picture. But once again, THANK YOU Bob!

biggurn · April 01, 2015, 12:23:56 AM

I finally have rings and a replacement piston! So while I have a connecting rod that needs new babbitt, I couldn't wait any longer, so I installed the other three pistons...
First checking the ring fit :

Then it's time to install the connecting rod back into the piston :

biggurn · April 01, 2015, 12:26:14 AM

Then install the rings:

With rings installed, its time to use the "custom" ring compressor to get the piston into the bore:

biggurn · April 01, 2015, 12:29:02 AM

Safely home:

Then line up the rod with the crank

biggurn · April 01, 2015, 12:31:38 AM

Get everything in place and tightened down :

As mentioned I have one rod that needs new babbitt, today I found that none of the local shops can do the bearing, so it'll be a send out...

More to come! Waiting on a new bearing and seal for the water pump so that I can get it rebuilt and ready to go...I also searched out local spray welders today for the water pump shaft to no avail. We are going to do some research and see if we can't do the spray welding here at the Rusty Engines shop, the boss man says hes done it before, we just have to see if we have the right media for this job... maybe its time for some fun ... off to watch youtube videos about spray welding!

Blake Malkamaki · April 01, 2015, 08:57:21 PM

They say pouring babbit is not too difficult if you study up on it. I've only poured one bearing and that was on the valve linkage on a Rumely steam engine. It turned out fine.

I see you have cotter pins in the bolts that hold the wrist pins. I don't think cotter pins are going to do anything to keep the bolts from turning. I'm pretty sure they should be wired in such a manner that the tension on the wire keeps the bolts from turning. There is a way to do this properly, but I cannot explain it here. You should be able to look it up on google. The cotter pins on the castle nuts on the rods are probably ok, but I would make sure they are tight and cannot moved around when the rods are whipping around inside the engine. Any movement will make them break.

Regarding your water pump shaftâ€¦ you could have it hard chromed and then ground to the original size. That do that with piston and valve rods that are worn or pitted on steam engines. Find a place that chromes hydraulic cylinders and ask them about it. It has to be hard chrome. Once it is done, it should never go bad, and the packing on the water pump should last virtually forever.

Blake