Messages

Steve, I read your post for the alternator.  I'm a rank amature compared to you.  I just needed a machine for a two year excavation project.  Anything I rebuilt was out of need to keep it running.  When I got it the previous owner had just replaced the tracks with the best set I have ever seen.  They were almost 100%  I've enjoyed using it and the very helpfull advise I got from the forum members. As I said, if I had a larger property I wouldnt part with it.  The other thing is that the tracks are so good I can't even cross over the street to work anywhere else in the neighborhood.  It would tear up the road and I don't have a trailer.

My 2 year project is finished.  As much as I love her she has to go.   My property is only 75 x 150.  How much dirt can I move on something that small.  She did a great job for me, moved over 17 tandem loads of dirt reshaped a 20ft high cliff.  Check her out on Craigs List at this link.  The forum has helped me enormously.  I will be sure to tell the buyer about it.

The ad was misteriously deleted. This is a new one

http://cnj.craigslist.org/bfs/1223953781.html

A Negative ground system would be a plus, but what about the Magneto?  Would I have to re-wire it?  I definitly dont want to fry that.

Thanks for the reply, Jim.  My battery is connected with the POSITIVE connected to Ground.  The alternator is very small, I have no Idea what it came off of.  I havent started to investigate yet, but I dont think the alternator can be wired with a negative ground.  For me to switch to a Negative Ground I think I would need a new starter? It would turn in reverse.

My 1956 OC4 came with an alternator.  It doesn't charge the battery.  My Battery is wired with a Positive Ground.  I want to be sure that the conversion was wired correctly before I look for a new alternator.  I know how to wire a Negative ground alternator, but I'm not sure about positive ground systems. I dont want to fry anything.  Can anyone help with a scematic?

I trailered my OC4 on a five hour trip from Massachusetts to Central Jersey.  I used a 1998 GMC Ã,¾ ton truck with Towing Transition on a 10MB Trailer I rented from RYDER.  The trailer had surge brakes.  I had no problem at all.  I estimate the trailer was at the maximum 10MB weight loaded.   Trailer Brakes are a MUST. Secure the load well, drive a few miles, stop and re-tighted you load binders. Keep Right, maintain double distance between you and the vehicle ahead, Stay under the speed limit and anticipate the road ahead.

I bought a $12 manual grease gun at the local NAPA Store.  Then changed the connector fitting to fit my flat button style fittings.  NAPA Also sells the gear oil.  You can buy the correct fitting at any truck parts supply.  Harbor freight also stocks the grease connector fitting.  Its a little messy, but better than paying $150 for the same thing.  Right now I have to open the grease gun to fill it with oil, but I'm adding a dip tube and valve, so I can suck the oil out of the can without opening the gun.

28-50 Hart Parr, now your really talking Antique.  The Cleats on my OC$ are almost like new.  I dont know what you call them, but the virtical lip is almost 1" high.  They would probably rip a black top road up with the slightest turn.  Rubber would be very expensive and take a long time to fabricate, not to mention a very messy job.  I think I counted 62 cleats per track, so I would have to make 124 grousers, quite an undertaking.  I guess I'll just use planks to cross roads without doing any damage.  Thanks for the info.

Has anyone ever tried to bolt on Rubber or Wood Grouser Tracks onto OC4 Tracks?  My OC4 had two holes in each Track Cleat.  I would like to be able to run across or on roads for short distances without causing any damage to the blacktop.  I have some very hard 2 x 6 White Oak.  I'm thinking about making a set.  I dont know if they would hold up to normal use and don't want to invest a lot of time. if they won't. The only thing I would have to buy is the bolts, washers and nuts.

Eric,  You made some excelent points. Thanks for the info.  I did change the trans. oil before using it.  I may have overfilled it, causing this leak.  If I had a loose Track Frame Shaft like you did, would it also leak oil on the inside?  I'm going to check that tomorrow.  From what I read in the service manual the Preload is set before installing the Seal retainer, so I dont think a replacement will affect the pre-load adjustment.  I bought this machine just to do a project on my property, with the Idea that I will sell it in a year or two.  I do love using it, but my property is very small. I hope I don't have to re-build everything before the project is done.

Ive been reading alot about replacing bearings, boring and sleving etc....
I may have a bigger problem that I realize.  I hope my bearings are still good.  If after removing the track , I find the sprocket still tight with no wobble, I would asume that my bearings are good.  After a closer look at the assembly scematic, I see what you mean about the sleeve (Oil Seal Retainer).  If I remove the nut and trunnion, do you think a mini vice grip welded to a slap hammer could get the sleeve & seal out if I work it evenly around the circumferience?  How tight is the Oil Seal Retainer Sleeve pressed in?

My 1956 OC4 is leaking oil from the rear Sprocket.  There is a spray patern on the outside of the sprocket.  The service manual describes removing the entire Final Drive to change the seal.  I assume, since oil is appearing on the outside of the sprocket, that the small outer seal is the bad one.  My question is can I replace the small outer seal from the outside without removing the entire Final drive or even the cover?

Eric,
It sounds like youi have some experience with OC4 FInal Drive.  My 1956 OC4 is leaking oil from the center of one rear sprocket.  I have a service manual, but it states drive the seal out from the inside after removing the drive and cover on a bench.  My question is:  Do you think I can replace the seal from the outside without removing the whole drive?

That would have been good to know before I installed them, but when I first put them in they weren't so loose.  They didnt look very durable when they were new, just bushings, with no way to grease them.  If I have to do them over again, Im going to retrofit something better. with needle bearings and regular closed end caps.  Thanks for the advice anyway.

I'm planning to fabricate a Snow Plow blade for my OC4 to push dirt over a very steep hill.  Ive been using the bucket to lift and drop, but with a full bucket even with both counter weights its scary at the edge of the hill, too much weight forward.  I'm looking for a Plow blade now.  I plan on leaving the Bucket on to strengthen and support the blade. I'll post The finished Photo when I'm done.