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Could the bulb hole be filled with sediment and blocked, preventing coolant from reaching the bulb?

Ran into that recently on an inoperative pressure gauge on a water system.

Hello, fellow NB'er!

Reading your post, my first reaction was that the new gauge got busted when installed. I've twisted that fine tube off on occasion.

I'd pull it and recheck.

Jack Wetmore in F'ton.

Hello Dave -

Have you tried Zimmerman Oliver Cletrac?

They have probably the best stock on the continent. And if they don't have it they will probably help you find the parts.

http://www.olivercletrac.com/

Went through three tractors with the problem 30 - 40 years ago.  Built all up with brazing, Machined with fly cutters driven by electric drill for the casting (Pressed out the axle and inserted a stub armature) and drill press and jigs for the brackets. Added grease fittings to the 2 brackets with none on the the front. Not a precise job by any means (lots of holes from insufficient brazing) but hey - they hold grease and stop the flop and toe-in!

And it's likely given the ages they'll outlast the rest of the units - as well as me ! !

Hello Steve -

I've run into that too, and if I could turn the roller with ANY device (chain wrench, 4 ft pipe wrench,), I put it on one of the front positions on the track frame where I think there's the most weight (and traction to turn the roller!). Those worked free in short order.

If they wouldn't budge at all, I drove out one retainer and took a round file to the high spots that showed up (clearly!) on the bushings. I used stp when assembling - probably overkill but I had surplus.

I replaced mine with Spicer, Moog and Rockwell units over the years as I rebuilt the tractors. These had grease fittings, so would last longer . . . As if thAT'S A FACTOR, WHEN THE ORIGINALS lasted forty - fifty years!

Didn't record part numbers, unfortunately.

I've recorded the splines as 1.1" OD by 6; that might be the standard 1 1/8 PTO shaft size and I measured wrong . . .

After oliverchris's suggestion, to add a bit more friction to the roller, I'd try  backing it up onto a chunk of 4 x 4 laid sideways to the track, stopping as the 4 x 4 reaches the stuck roller.

Then moving back and forward a foot or so places a lot more weight - and turning friction - on that roller, and might shake it loose.

Came through ok for me!

On my 3's, I line up the link pin about 9 oclock on the rear sprocket. I can then drive the pin inward without interference, and the teeth on the sprocket keep the track from an uncontrolled departure forward.

I think the 4 track frame and final drive arrangement is similar.

On reassembly, the same positioning and some help from a block and tackle or come-along to pull the links into alignment simplifies the job.

And I've found a spike (4"? 6"?) about right to replace the lock.

My 1952 OC3 6WH994 has the same blade setup, with the tank in front of the rad.

Hello Will -

Haven't any measurements, but I've used them with the oil channels on the inner ends nearly worn down.

Even though they are shorter, with the snug fit, once they're driven home they're not likely to loosen in service.

If the channels are worn flat you could grind new ones - they provide oil to the axle bushings.

I have a suspicion that the 008 might be valve clearance. Dunno if it was hot or cold!

Hello Hoopty -

I use Irfanview to play with pix. Free, and easy to use. The "half size" option (half width, half height) cuts the file size to about 25% of the original.

Google it for a download. But check the download selections closely so you don't wind up with some fancy annoying garbage . . .!

The originals on ours were Delco 1109602. Armature is Delco 1888751.

You may get some hits looking for these numbers.

There was also an Autolite starter, but I don't have the number for it. Might have been fitted to the IXK3 on earlier OC3's or Generals. Probably had a bit lower power output, for the lower HP engine.

A couple of possible alternate starters: 1109609 and 1109454. I haven't used either, but they were crossed in some literature. I was told  by an Oliver serviceman there was one with 4 field coils - more powerful - but have no numbers for that one.

I've gone to 12 v. Another knowledgeable tech said the starters lasted longer in 12 v service, because they didn't have to work so hard - as long as the engine starts reliably. Prolonged operation trying to get a balky one going can fry the 6 v units.

I've had some success with London Generator in London Ontario Canada. Got an armature from them must be 20 years ago, and it's still in service.

http://www.weblocal.ca/london-generator-service-ltd-london-on.html

If worst comes to worst, I may have a core here that they could rebuild.

Good luck; keep us posted.

I've used both the original XH1113 and an FM J4B off an AC B on OC 3's over the years. I had to rotate the mag drive gear a couple of teeth to line up with the FM impulse dogs.

I have a handful of Wico XH carcasses here, acquired over the past 50 years. All need coils, points, rotor, cap etc - they've been robbed to keep my remaining OC 3 running!